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Hearths  beside  which  were  rocked  the  cradles  of  those  who 
made  the  history  of  Canada. 


FAMOUS   FIRESIDES 


OF 


FRENCH  CANADA 


BY 


MARY  WILSON  ALLOW  AY. 


MONTREAL : 

PRINTED  BY  JOHN  LOVELL  &  SON 
1899 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Parliament  of  Canada,  in  the 
year  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  ninety-nine,  by  MARY 
WILSON  ALLOWAY,  in  the  office  of  the  Minister  of  Agricul- 
ture and  Statistics  at  Ottawa. 


TO 

THE  RIGHT  HONOURABLE 
LORD  STRATHCONA  AND  MOUNT  ROYAL,  G.C.M.G.,  LLD.,  &c,, 

CHANCELLOR  OF  McGILL  UNIVERSITY,   MONTREAL, 

AND 
HIGH  COMMISSIONER  FOR  CANADA  IN  LONDON, 

THIS   VOLUME 

IS 
BY  SPECIAL  PERMISSION 


BY 
THE  AUTHOR. 


The  principal  authorities  consulted  in  the 
preparation  of  this  work  were  Le  Moyne, 
Kingsford,  Rattray,  Garneau,  Park  man,  Haw- 
kins and  Bouchette. 

Acknowledgments  are  also  due  to  the  kind 
interest  evinced  and  encouragement  given  by 
the  Hon.  Judge  Baby,  President  of  the  Numis- 
matic and  Antiquarian  Society  of  Montreal. 


CONTENTS 


CMteau  de  Ramezay 19 

Heroes  of  the  Past 30 

Chapel  of  Notre-Dame-de-la-Victoire 51 

Le  Seminaire 56 

Cathedrals  and  Cloisters 58 

Massacre  of  Lachine 82 

Chateau  de  Vaudreuil 95 

Battle  of  the  Plains 103 

Canada  under  English  Rule •  125 

American  Invasion 144 

The  Continental  Army  in  Canada , 155 

Fur  Kings 192 

Interesting  Sites 199 

Famous  Names 203 

Echoes  from  the  Past..             212 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGE 

Fireplace Frontispiece. 

Chateau  Kitchen , ? 24 

Chateau  de  Ramezay 26 

Montgomery  Salon , 28 

Chapel  of  Notre  Dame  de  la  Victoire 52 

Le  S6minaire 56 

Home  of  La  Salle 84 

St.  Amable  St 98 

Fort  Chambly 146 

Chateau  Fortier 156 

Franklin  Vaults 170 


PREFACE. 


In  offering  this  little  volume  to  the  kind 
consideration  of  Canadian  and  American  read- 
ers, it  is  the  earnest  wish  of  the  Author  that  it 
may  commend  itself  to  the  interest  of  both,  as 
the  early  histories  of  Canada  and  the  United 
States  are  so  closely  connected  that  they  may 
be  considered  identical. 

We  have  tried  to  recall  the  days  when,  by 
these  firesides,  were  rocked  the  cradles  of 
those  who  helped  to  make  Canadian  history, 
and  to  render  more  familiar  .  the  names  and 
deeds  of  the  great  men,  French,  English  and 
American,  upon  whose  valour  and  wisdom  such 
mighty  issues  depended. 

The  recital  is,  we  trust,  wholly  impartial  and 
without  prejudice. 

It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  union  of  sentiment 
which  the  close  of  this  century  sees  between 
the  two  great  Anglo-Saxon  peoples  may  cast 


Xll  PREFACE. 

a  veil  of  forgetfulness  over  the  strife  of  the  one 
preceding  it ;  and  be  a  herald  of  that  reign  of 
peace,  when  "  nation  shall  no  more  rise  against 
nation,  and  wars  shall  cease." 


/ 

MONTREAL,  May  24,  1899. 


INTRODUCTION. 


A  BOUT  twelve  years  after  the  first 
*  *  Spanish  caravel  had  touched  the 
shores  of  North  America,  we  find  the  French 
putting  forth  efforts  to  share  in  some  of  the 
results  of  the  discovery.  In  the  year  1504 
some  Basque,  Breton  and  Norman  fisher- 
folk  had  already  commenced  fishing  along 
the  bleak  shores  of  Newfoundland  and 
the  contiguous  banks  for  the  cod  in  which 
this  region  is  still  so  prolific. 

The  Spanish  claim  to  the  discovery  of 
America  is  disputed  by  several  aspirants 
to  that  honour.  Among  these  are  the 
ancient  mariners  of  Northern  Europe,  the 
Norsemen  of  the  Scandinavian  Peninsula. 
They  assert  that  their  Vikings  touched 
American  shores  three  centuries  before 
Isabella  of  Castille  drove  the  Moors  from 
their  palaces  among  the  orange  groves  of 
Espana.  Eric  the  Red,  and  other  sea- 
kings,  made  voyages  to  Iceland  and  Green- 


14  INTRODUCTION. 

land  in  the  eleventh  and  following  cen- 
turies ;  and  it  is  highly  probable  that  these 
Norsemen,  with  their  hardihood  and  enter- 
prise, touched  on  some  part  of  the  main- 
land. One  Danish  writer  claims  that  this 
occurred  as  far  back  as  the  year  985,  about 
eighty  years  after  the  death  of  the  Danes' 
mortal  enemy,  the  great  Saxon  King 
Alfred. 

Even  the  Welsh,  from  the  isolation  of 
their  mountain  fastnesses,  declare  that  a 
Cambrian  expedition,  in  the  year  1 1 70, 
under  Prince  Modoc,  landed  in  America. 
In  proof  of  this,  there  is  said  to  exist  in 
Mexico  a  colony  bearing  indisputable 
traces  of  the  tongue  of  these  ancient  Celts. 

The  term  Canada  first  appears  as  the 
officially  recognized  name  of  the  region  in 
the  instructions  given  by  Francis  I  to  its 
original  colonists  in  the  year  1538. 

There  are  various  theories  as  to  the 
etymology  of  the  word,  its  having  by 
different  authorities  been  attributed  to 
Indian,  French  and  Spanish  origins. 

In  an  old  copy  of  a  Montreal  paper, 
bearing  date  of  Dec.  24,  1834,  it  is  assert- 


INTRODUCTION.  15 

ed  that  Canada  or  Kannata  is  an  Indian 
word,  meaning  a  village,  and  was  mistaken 
by  the  early  visitors  for  the  name  of  the 
whole  country. 

The  Philadelphia  Courier,  of  July,  1836, 
gives  the  following  not  improbable  etymo- 
logy of  the  name  of  the  province ; — Canada 
is  compounded  of  two  aboriginal  words, 
Can,  which  signifies  the  mouth,  and  Ada 
the  country,  meaning  the  mouth  of  the 
country.  A  writer  of  the  same  period, 
when  there  seems  to  have  been  consider- 
able discussion  on  the  subject,  says: — 
The  word  is  undoubtedly  of  Spanish 
origin,  coming  from  a  common  Spanish 
word,  Canada,  signifying  a  space  or 
opening  between  mountains  or  high  banks 
— a  district  in  Mexico  of  similar  physical 
features,  bearing  the  same  name. 

"  That  there  were  Spanish  pilots  or 
navigators  among  the  first  discoverers  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  may  be  readily  supposed, 
and  what  more  natural  than  that  those  who 
first  visited  the  gulf  should  call  the  interior 
of  the  country  El  Canada  from  the  typo- 
graphical appearance  of  the  opening  to  it, 


16  INTRODUCTION. 

the  custom  of  illiterate  navigators  naming 
places  from  events  and  natural  appearances 
being  well  established." 

Hennepin,  an  etymological  savant,  de- 
clares that  the  name  arose  from  the 
Spaniards,  who  were  the  first  discoverers 
of  Canada,  exclaiming,  on  their  failure  to 
find  the  precious  metals,  "El  Capa  da 
nada"  or  Cape  Nothing.  There  seems  to 
be  some  support  of  this  alleged  presence 
of  the  Spanish  among  the  early  navigators 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  by  the  finding  in  the 
river,  near  Three  Rivers,  in  the  year  1835, 
an  ancient  cannon  of  peculiar  make,  which 
was  supposed  to  be  of  Spanish  construc- 
tion. 

The  origins  of  the  names  of  Montreal 
and  Quebec  are  equally  open  to  discussion. 
Many  stoutly  assert  that  Montreal  is  the 
French  for  Mount  Royal,  or  Royal  Mount ; 
others,  that  by  the  introduction  of  one 
letter,  the  name  is  legitimately  Spanish — 
Monte-real.  Monte,  designating  any 
wooded  elevation,  and  that  real  is  the 
only  word  in  that  language  for  royal. 

The  word  Quebec  is  attributed  to  Indian 
and  French  sources.  It  is  said  that  it  is 


INTRODUCTION.  17 

an  Algonquin  word,  meaning  a  strait,  the 
river  at  this  point  being  not  more  than 
a  mile  wide ;  but  although  Champlain 
coincided  in  this  view,  its  root  has  enver 
been  discovered  in  any  Indian  tongue. 
Its  abrupt  enunciation  has  not  to  the  ear 
the  sound  of  an  Indian  word,  and  it  could 
scarcely  have  come  from  the  Algonquin 
language,  which  is  singularly  soft  and  sweet, 
and  may  be  considered  the  Italian  of  North 
American  dialects. 

Those  who  claim  for  it  a  French  origin, 
say  that  the  Normans,  rowing  up  the  river 
with  Cartier  at  his  first  discovery,  as  they 
rounded  the  wooded  shores  of  the  Isle  of 
Orleans,  and  came  in  sight  of  the  bare  rock 
rising  three  hundred  feet  from  its  base, 
exclaimed  "  Quel  bee ! "  or,  What  a 
promontory  !  The  word  bears  intrinsically 
strong  evidence  of  Norman  origin. 

Cape  Diamond  received  its  name  from 
the  fact  that  in  the  "  dark  colored  slate  of 
which  it  is  composed  are  found  perfectly 
limpid  quartz  crystals  in  veins,  along  with 
crystallized  carbonate  of  lime,  which,  spark- 
ling like  diamonds  among  the  crags,  sug- 
gested the  appellation." 


Famous  Firesides 

—  OF*  — 

French  Canada 


THE  CHATEAU  DE  RAMEZAY. 


FEW  yards  from  the  busy  municipal 
centre  of  the  city  of  Montreal, 
behind  an  antique  iron  railing,  is  a  quaint, 
old  building-  known  as  the  Chateau  de 
Ramezay.  Its  history  is  contemporary 
with  that  of  the  city  for  the  last  two  cen- 
turies, and  so  identified  with  past  stirring 
events  that  it  has  been  saved  from  the 
vandalism  of  modern  improvement,  and  is 
to  be  preserved  as  a  relic  of  the  old  Regime 
in  New  France.  It  is  a  long  one-storied 
structure,  originally  red-tiled,  with  graceful, 
sloping  roof,  double  rows  of  peaked,  dormer 
windows,  huge  chimneys  and  the  unpolished 
architecture  of  the  period. 


20  FRENCH  CANADA. 

Among  the  many  historical  buildings 
of  America,  none  have  been  the  scene  of 
more  thrilling  events,  a  long  line  of  interest- 
ing associations  being  connected  with  the 
now  quiet  old  Chateau,  looking  in  its 
peaceful  old  age  as  out  of  keeping  with  its 
modern  surroundings  as  would  an  ancient 
vellum  missal,  mellowed  for  centuries  in  a 
monkish  cell,  appear  among  some  of  the 
ephemeral  literature  of  to-day. 

A  brilliant  line  of  viceroys  have  here 
held  rule,  and  within  its  walls  things  mo- 
mentous in  the  country's  annals  have  been 
enacted.  During  its  checkered  experience 
no  less  than  three  distinct  Regimes  have 
followed  each  other,  French,  British  and 
American.  In  an  old  document  still  to  be 
found  among  the  archives  of  the  Seminary 
of  St.  Sulpice,  it  is  recorded  that  the  land 
on  which  it  stands  was  ceded  to  the  Gover- 
nor of  Montreal  in  the  year  1660,  just 
eighteen  years  after  Maisonneuve,  its 
founder,  planted  the  silken  Fleur-de-Lys 
of  France  on  the  shores  of  the  savage  Red- 
man, and  one  hundred  years  before  the  tri- 
cross  of  England  floated  for  the  first  time 
from  the  ramparts. 


THE  CHATEAU  DE  RAMEZAY.  21 

Somewhere  about  the  year  1700  a 
portion  of  this  land  was  acquired  by  Claude 
de  Ramezay,  Sieur  de  la  Gesse,  Bois  Fleu- 
rent  and  Monnoir,  in  France,  and  Governor 
of  Three  Rivers,  and  this  house  built, 

De  Ramezay  was  of  an  old  Franco- 
Scottish  family,  being  descended  by  Tki- 
mothy,  his  father,  from  one  Sir  John  Ram- 
say, a  Scotchman,  who,  with  others  of  his 
compatriots,  went  over  to  France  in  the 
1 6th  century.  He  may  have  joined  an 
army  raised  for  the  French  wars,  or  may 
have  formed  part  of  a  bridal  train  similar  to 
the  gay  retinue  of  the  fair  Princess  Mary, 
who  went  from  the  dark  fells  and  misty 
lochs  of  the  land  of  the  Royal  Stuarts  to  be 
the  loveliest  queen  who  ever  sat  on  the 
throne  of  la  belle  France.  De  Ramezay 
was  the  father  of  thirteen  children,  by  his 
wife,  Mademoiselle  Denys  de  la  Ronde,  a 
sister  of  Mesdames  Thomas  Tarieu  de  La 
Naudiere  de  La  Perade,  d'Ailleboust 
d'Argenteuil,  Chartier  de  Lotbiniere  and 
Aubert  de  la  Chenage,  the  same  family  out 
of  whom  came  the  celebrated  de  Jumon- 
ville,  so  well  known  in  connection  with  the 


22  FRENCH  CANADA. 

unfortunate  circumstances  of  Fort  Neces- 
sity. The  original  of  the  marriage  contract 
is  still  preserved  in  the  records  of  the  Mon- 
treal Court  House  ;  with  its  long  list  of 
autographs  of  Governor,  Intendant,  and 
high  officials,  civil  and  military,  scions  of 
the  nobility  of  the  country,  appended  there- 
to. The  annals  of  the  family  tell  us  that 
some  of  them  died  in  infancy,  several  met 
violent  and  untimely  deaths,  two  of  the 
sisters  took  conventual  vows  in  the  cloisters 
of  Quebec,  two  married,  having  descendants 
now  living  in  France  and  Canada,  and  two 
remained  unmarried. 

De  Ramezay  came  over  as  a  captain 
in  the  army  with  the  Viceroy  de  Tracy, 
and  was  remarkable  for  his  highly  refined 
education,  having  been  a  pupil  of  the  cele- 
brated Fenelon,  who  was  said  to  have  been 
the  pattern  of  virtue  in  the  midst  of  a  cor- 
rupt court,  and  who  was  entrusted  by  Louis 
the  Fourteenth  with  the  education  of  his 
grandsons,  the  Dukes  of  Burgundy,  Anjou 
and  Berri.  Had  the  first  named,  who  was 
heir-presumptive  to  the  throne,  lived  to 
practice  the  princely  virtues,  the  seeds  of 


THE  CHATEAU  DE  RAMEZAY.  23 

which  his  preceptor  had  sown  in  his  heart, 
some  of  the  most  bloody  pages  in  French 
history  might  never  have  been  written. 

De  Ramezay,  for  many  years  being 
Governor  of  Montreal,  held  official  court  in 
the  Council  chamber  to  the  right  of  the 
entrance  hall  of  the  Chateau,  which  is  now 
a  museum  of  rare  and  valuable  relics  of 
Canada's  past. 

The  Salon   was   the   scene  of  many  a 
gay  rout,  as  Madame  de  Ramezay,  imitating 
the   brilliant  social  and    political  life  as  it 
was  in  France  in  the   time  of  Le  Grand 
Monarqm,   transplanted    to    the   wilds    of 
America  some  reflection  of  court  ceremon- 
ial and  display  as  they  culminated  in  that 
long  and  brilliant  reign.     From  the  dormer 
windows    above,  high-bred  French  ladies 
looked  at  the  sun  rising  over  the  forest- 
clothed  shores  of  the  river,  on  which  now 
stands  the   architectural  grandeur   of  the 
modern  city.     How  strange  to  the  swarthy- 
faced  dwellers  in  the  wigwam  must  the  old- 
time  gaieties  have  appeared,  as  the  lights 
from  the  silver  candelabres  shone  far  out  in 
the  night,  when  the  old  Chateau  was  en 


24  FRENCH  CANADA. 

fete  and  aglow  with  music,  dancing   and 
laughter. 

What  a  contrast  to  the  burden-bear- 
ing squaws  were  the  dainty  French  women 
in  stiff  brocade  and  jewels,  high  heels,  paint, 
patches  and  tresses  a  la  Pompadour,  trip- 
ping through  the  stately  measures  of  the 
minuet  to  the  sound  of  lute  or  harpsichord  ! 

"  O,  fair  young  land  of  La  Nbuvelle  France, 
With  thy  halo  of  olden  time  romance, 
Back  like  a  half- forgotten  dream 
Come  the  bygone  days  of  the  old  Rigime" 

The  servants  and  retainers,  imitating 
their  lords,  held  high  revel  in  the  vault- 
ed kitchens ;  while  dishes  and  confections, 
savoury  and  delicious,  came  from  the 
curious  fire-place  and  ovens  recently  disco- 
vered in  the  vaults.  These  ancient  kitchen 
offices,  built  to  resist  a  siege,  are  exceed- 
ingly interesting  in  the  light  of  our  culinary 
arrangements  of  to-day.  They  were  so 
constructed  that  if  the  buildings  above, 
with  their  massive  masonry,  were  destroyed, 
they  would  afford  safe  and  comfortable 
refuge.  The  roof  is  arched,  and,  like  the 
walls,  is  several  feet  thick,  of  solid  stone, 


THE  CHATEAU  DE  RAMEZAT.  25 

lighted  by  heavily  barred  windows,  with 
strong  iron  shutters.  In  clearing  out  the 
walled-up  and  long-forgotten  ovens,  there 
were  found  bits  of  broken  crockery,  pipe- 
stems  and  the  ashes  of  fires,  gone  out  many, 
many  long  years  ago.  As  indicated  by  an 
early  map  of  the  city,  the  position  of  the 
original  well  was  located ;  in  which,  when 
it  is  cleaned  out,  it  is  intended  to  hang  an 
old  oaken  bucket  and  drinking  cups  as 
nearly  as  possible  as  they  originally  were. 

Some  time  after  the  death  of  de 
Ramezay,  which  occurred  in  the  city  of 
Quebec  in  1724,  these  noble  halls  fell  into 
the  possession  of  the  fur-traders  of  Canada, 
and  many  a  time  these  underground  cel- 
lars were  stored  with  the  rich  skins  of  the 
mink,  silver  fox,  marten,  sable  and  ermine 
lor  the  markets  of  Europe  and  for  royalty 
itself.  They  were  brought  in  by  the 
hunters  and  trappers  over  the  boundless 
domains  of  the  fur  companies,  and  by  the 
Indian  tribes  friendly  to  the  peltrie  trade. 
As  these  hardy,  bronzed  men  sat  around 
the  hearth,  while  the  juicy  haunch  of  veni- 
son roasted  on  the  spit  by  the  blazing  logs, 


26  FRENCH  CANADA. 

relating  blood-curdling  tales  and  hair- 
breadth escapes,  they  were  a  necessary 
phase  of  times  long  passed  away,  but  which 
will  always  have  a  picturesqueness  espe- 
cially their  own. 

Instead  of  the  white  man's  influencing 
the  savage  towards  civilized  customs,  it 
was  often  found,  as  one  writer  has  said, 
that  hundreds  of  white  men  were  barbar- 
ized on  this  continent  for  each  single 
savage  that  was  civilized.  Many  of  the 
former  identified  themselves  by  marriage 
and  mode  of  life  with  the  Indians,  deve- 
loped their  traits  of  hardihood  and  acquired 
their  knowledge  of  woodcraft  and  skill  in 
navigating  the  streams.  In  pursuit  of  the 
fur-bearing  animals  in  their  native  haunts, 
they  shot  the  raging  rapids,  ventured  out 
upon  the  broad  expanse  of  the  treacherous 
lakes,  and  endured  without  complaint  the 
severity  of  winter  and  the  exposure  of  forest 
life  in  summer. 

Their  ranks  were  continually  increased 
by  those  who  were  impatient  of  the  slow 
method  of  obtaining  a  livelihood  from  the 
tillage  of  the  soil,  when  the  husbandman 


THE  CHATEAU  DE  RAMEZAT.  27 

was  frequently  driven  from  the  plough  by 
the  sudden  attack  of  Indian  foes,  or  inter- 
rupted in  his  hasty  and  anxious  harvesting 
by  their  war-whoop,  or  perhaps  was  com- 
pelled to  leave  his  farm  to  take  up  arms,  if 
the  occasion  arose,  so  that  in  many  in- 
stances the  homesteads  were  left  to  the  old 
men,  women  and  children.  The  excite- 
ment of  the  chase  and  the  wild  freedom  of 
the  plains  had  a  fascination  that  many 
could  not  resist,  so  much  so  that  the  king 
had  to  promulgate  an  edict,  to  stop,  under 
heavy  penalties,  this  roving  life  of  his 
Canadian  subjects,  as  their  nomadic  ten- 
dencies interfered  with  the  successful  set- 
tlement of  the  colony. 

To  the  lover  of  the  quaint  architecture 
of  other  centuries,  there  is  an  indescribable 
charm  in  these  time-worn  walls,  which 
are  still  as  substantial  as  if  the  snows 
and  rains  of  two  centuries  had  not  beaten 
against  them.  The  interior  is  equally 
interesting  in  this  regard,  as  the  walls  divid- 
ing the  chambers  and  corridors,  though 
covered  with  modern  plaster  and  stucco, 
are  found  to  consist  of  several  feet  of  solid 


28  FRENCH  CANADA. 

stone  masonry,  while  the  ornamental  ceiling 
covers  beams  of  timber,  twenty  inches  by 
eighteen,  which  is  strong,  well  jointed  and 
placed  as  close  as  flooring.  Above  this  is 
heavy  stone  work  over  twelve  inches  thick, 
so  that  the  sloping  roof  was  the  only  part 
pregnable  in  an  assault  with  the  munitions 
of  war  then  in  use.  Upon  removing  a 
portion  of  the  modern  wainscotting  in  the 
main  reception  room,  there  was  discovered 
an  ancient  fireplace,  made  of  roughly 
hewn  blocks  of  granite.  A  crescent-shaped 
portion  of  the  hearthstone  is  capable  of 
removal,  for  what  purpose  it  is  not  known. 
With  old  andirons  and  huge  logs,  it  looks 
to-day  exactly  as  it  must  have  done  when 
Montgomery  and  his  suite,  in  revolutionary 
uniform,  received  delegations  in  this  cham- 
ber, and  when  Brigadier  General  Wooster, 
who  succeeded  him,  wrote  and  sent  des- 
patches by  courier  from  the  French  Cha- 
teau to  the  Colonial  mansion  at  Mount 
Vernon. 

The  rooms  of  state  in  those  days  were, 
it  is  said,  all  in  what  is  at  present  the  back  of 
the  house,  the  rear  of  the  building  being 


THE  CHATEAU  DE  RAMEZAT. 


29 


the  front,  facing  the  river,  down  to  which 
ran  the  gardens. 

It  may  be  that  the  moonlight  cast  on 
these  panes  the  shadow  of  the  noble  Sir 
Jeffrey  Amherst,  in  his  red  coat,  as  looking 
out  over  the  river  he  may  have  seen  the 
smoke  of  the  fire  lighted  by  de  Levis, 
where  he  burnt  his  colours  rather  than  let 
them  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  English. 


HEROES  OF  THE  PAST. 

©N  the  river  bank  below  the  Chateau, 
tradition  says,  was  the  spot  trodden 
by  Jacques  Carder,  who  gave  the  river  its 
name.  Born  at  the  time  when  all  Europe 
was  still  excited  over  the  tales  of  Columbus' 
adventures,  he  left  the  white  cliffs  and  grey 
docks  of  St.  Malo,  where  he  had  learned 
the  sailor's  craft,  to  search  for  the  western 
route  to  the  Indies. 

A  little  higher  up,  less  than  a  century 
later,  Champlain,  to  push  on  actively  his 
operations  in  the  fur-trade,  built  his  fort, 
the  name  which  he  then  gave  the  spot, 
"Place  Royale"  being  recently  restored 
to  it.  In  his  wanderings  for  the  further 
pursuance  of  this  object,  he  discovered 
Lakes  Ontario,  Huron  and  Champlain. 

Being  betrothed  to  a  twelve  year  old 
maiden,  Helene  Bouille,  the  daughter  of  a 
Huguenot,  he  named  the  island  opposite 
the  city,  which  lies  like  a  green  gem 
among  the  crystal  waters,  Helene,  in 


HEROES  OF  THE  PAST.  31 

affectionate  remembrance  of  her  who,  at 
the  end  of  eight  years,  was  to  join  him 
im  his  adventurous  life. 

The  winding  length  of  quiet,  old  St. 
Paul  street,  then  an  Indian  trail,  following 
the  course  of  the  river  through  the  oak 
forest,  must  often  have  known  the  pre- 
sence of  this  picturesque  warrior  in  his 
weather-beaten  garments  of  the  doublet 
and  long  hose  then  in  vogue.  "  Over 
the  doublet  he  buckled  on  a  breastplate, 
and  probably  a  back  piece,  while  his 
thighs  were  protected  by  cuisses  of  steel 
and  his  head  by  a  plumed  casque. 
Across  his  shoulders  hung  the  strap  of 
his  bandolier  or  ammunition  box,  at  his 
side  was  his  sword,  and  in  his  hand  his 
arquebuse.  Such  was  the  equipment  of 
this  ancient  Indian  fighter,  whose  ex- 
ploits date  eleven  years  before  the  Puritans 
landed,"  among  the  grey  granite  hills 
of  New  England. 

He  was  an  armourer  of  Dieppe,  who, 
though  "  a  great  captain,  a  successful  dis- 
coverer and  a  noted  geographer,  was 
more  than  all  a  God-fearing,  Christian 


32  FRENCH  CANADA.. 

gentleman."  He  was  more  concerned  to 
gain  victories  by  the  cross  than  by  the 
sword,  saying: — "  The  salvation  of  a 
soul  is  of  more  value  than  the  conquest 
of  an  empire." 

The  year  1620  was  a  red  letter  day 
in  the  history  of  the  Colony,  when,  from 
a  little  vessel  moored  at  the  foot  of  the 
cliff,  he  led  on  shore  at  Quebec  his  young 
bride,  who  with  her  three  maids  had  come 
to  the  western  wilderness,  the  first  gentle- 
woman to  land  on  Canadian  shores. 
He  conducted  her  to  where  is  now  the 
corner  of  Notre  Dame  and  Sous-le-Fort 
streets,  to  the  rude  "habitation"  he  had 
prepared  for  her  reception,  which  was 
poorly  furnished  and  unhomelike  in  com- 
parison to  the  one  which  she  had  left  over 
the  sea.  But  history  tells  of  no  word  of 
complaint  nor  disappointment  coming 
from  the  gentle  lips  ;  but,  as  the  youthful 
chdteleine  sat  by  her  hearth,  it  shed  a  light 
among  the  huts  of  the  settlers  and  dusky 
lodges  of  the  natives,  as  her  example  of 
patience  and  duty  performed  by  the  first 
refined,  civilized  fireside  in  the  land  does 


HEROES  OF  THE  PAST.  33 

to  the  thousands  who  have  succeeded  her. 
After  almost  three  hundred  years,  the 
"  charms  of  her  person,  her  elegance  and 
kindliness  of  manner"  are  still  remem- 
bered. The  chronicler  tells  us  that  the 
"  Governor's  lady  wore  in  her  daily  ram- 
bles, amongst  the  wigwams,  an  article  of 
feminine  attire,  not  unusual  in  those  days, 
a  small  mirror  at  her  girdle.  It  appealed 
irresistibly  to  the  simple  natures  around 
her,  that  "  a  beauteous  being  should  love 
them  so  much  as  to  carry  their  images 
reflected  close  to  her  heart." 

4  *  The  graceful  figure  of  the  first  lady 
of  Canada,  gliding  noiselessly  along  by 
the  murmuring  waters  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, showering  everywhere  smiles  and 
kindness,  a  help-mate  to  her  noble  lord, 
and  a  pattern  of  purity  and  refinement, 
was  indeed  a  vision  of  female  loveliness  " 
which  time  cannot  obliterate  nor  forget- 
fulness  dim.  The  domestic  life  of  the 
colony  dates  from  about  the  time  of  her 
arrival,  the  first  regular  register  of  mar- 
riage being  entered  in  the  following  year  ; 
two  months  after  the  first  nuptial  cere- 


34  FRENCH  CANADA. 

mony  was  performed  in  New  England. 
The  first  christening  took  place  in  the 
same  year,  1621,  the  ordinance  being  ad- 
ministered to  the  infant  son  of  Abraham 
Martin,  dit  L? Ecossais,  pilot  of  the  river 
St.  Lawrence.  This  old  pilot,  named  in 
the  journal  of  the  Jesuits  as  Mditre 
Abraham,  has  bequeathed  his  name  to 
the  famous  Plains,  on  which  was  decided 
the  destiny  of  New  France. 

It  was  indeed  a  sorry  day  for  the 
settlement  when  the  inhabitants,  on  the 
1 6th  of  August,  1624,  saw  the  white  sails 
of  Champlain's  vessel  disappear  behind 
what  is  now  Point  Levis,  carrying  back, 
alas!  forever,  to  the  shores  of  her  be- 
loved France,  Madame  de  Champlain, 
sighing  for  the  mystic  life  of  the  cloister, 
tired  out  by  the  incessant  alarms  and 
the  Indian  ferocities  spread  around  the 
Fort  during  the  frequent  absences  of  her 
husband  and  her  favourite  brother,  Eus- 
tache  Bouille."  The  daintily-nurtured 
French  lady  must  have  found  the  quiet  of 
the  old-world  convent  a  very  haven  of 
peace  and  rest.  She  died  at  Mieux,  an 


HEROES  OF  TEE  PAST.  35 

Ursuline  Nun,  in  the  order  which  subse- 
quently was  to  be  so  closely  identified 
with  the  religious  history  of  her  wilder- 
ness home. 

But  monastic  retreat  had  no  attrac- 
tions for  the  founder  of  Fort  St.  Louis. 
Parkman  says  :  "  Champlain,  though  in 
Paris  is  restless.  He  is  enamoured  of  the 
New  World,  whose  rugged  charms  have 
seized  his  fancy  and  his  heart.  His  rest- 
less thoughts  revert  to  the  fog-wrapped 
coasts,  the  piney  odours  of  the  forests, 
the  noise  of  waters  and  the  sharp  and 
piercing  sunlight  so  dear  to  his  remem- 
brance." 

Among  these  he  was  destined  to  lay 
down  his  well  worn  armour  at  the  com- 
mand of  death,  the  only  enemy  before 
whom  he  ever  retreated  ;  for  on  Christmas 
Day,  1635,  in  a  chamber  in  the  Fort  at 
Quebec,  "  breathless  and  cold  lay  the 
hardy  frame  which  war,  the  wilderness 
and  the  sea  had  buffeted  so  long  in  vain. 
The  chevalier,  crusader,  romance-loving 
explorer  and  practical  navigator  lay  still 
in  death,"  leaving  the  memory  of  a  cour- 


36  HEROES  OF  THE  PAST. 

age  that  was   matchless   and  a  patience 
that  was  sublime. 

For  over  two  hundred  and  sixty  years, 
no  monument  stood  to  celebrate  this  true 
patriot's  name,  but  now  his  statue  stands 
in  his  city,  near  to  where  he  laid  the 
foundations  and  built  the  Chateau  St. 
Louis.  Most  unfortunately  his  last 
resting  place  is  unknown,  notwithstand- 
ing the  laborious  and  learned  efforts  of 
the  many  distinguished  antiquarians  of 
Quebec. 

The  Fort  which  Champlain  built  in 
1620,  and  in  which  he  died,  was  for  over 
two  centuries  the  seat  of  government,  and 
the  name  recalls  the  thrilling  events 
which  clothed  it  with  an  atmosphere  of 
great  and  stirring  interest  during  its 
several  periods.  The  hall  of  the  Fort 
during  the  weakness  of  the  colony  was 
often,  it  is  said,  a  scene  of  terror  and 
despair  from  the  inroads  of  the  ferocious 
savages,  who,  having  passed  and  over- 
thrown all  the  French  outposts,  threat- 
ened the  Fort  itself,  and  massacred  some 
friendly  Indians  within  sight  of  its  walls. 


HEROES  OF  THE  PAST.  37 

"  In  the  palmy  days  of  French  sover- 
eignty it  was  the  centre  of  power  over 
the  immense  domain  extending  from  the 
Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  along  the  shores 
of  the  noble  river  and  down  the  course  of 
the  Mississippi  to  its  outlet  below  New 
Orleans. 

The  banner  which  first  streamed  from 
the  battlements  of  Quebec  was  displayed 
from  a  line  of  forts  which  protected  the 
settlements  throughout  this  vast  extent 
of  country.  The  Council  Chamber  of  the 
Castle  was  the  scene  of  many  a  midnight 
vigil,  many  a  long  deliberation  and  deep- 
laid  project,  to  free  the  continent  from 
the  intrusion  of  the  ancient  rivals  of 
France  and  assert  her  supremacy.  Here 
also  was  rendered,  with  all  its  ancient 
forms,  the  fealty  and  homage  of  the 
noblesse  and  military  retainers,  who  held 
possessions  under  the  Crown,  a  feudal 
service  suited  to  those  early  times,  and 
which  is  still  performed  by  the  peers  at 
the  coronation  of  our  kings  in  West- 
minster Abbey." 

Among  the  many  dramatic    scenes  of 


38 


FRENCH  CANADA. 


which  it  was  the  theatre,  no  occurrence 
was  more  remarkable  than  an  event  which 
happened  in  the  year  1690,  when  "  Castle 
St.  Louis  had  assumed  an  appearance 
worthy  of  the  Governor-General,  who  then 
made  it  the  seat  of  the  Royal  Govern- 
ment, the  dignified  Count  de  Frontenac, 


a  nobleman  of  great  talents,  long  service 
and  extreme  pride,  and  who  is  considered 


HEROES  OF  THE  PAST.  39 

one  of  the  most  illustrious  of  the  early 
French  rulers."  The  story  is,  that  Sir 
William  Phipps,  an  English  admiral, 
arriving  with  his  fleet  in  the  harbour,  and 
believing  the  city  to  be  in  a  defenceless 
condition,  thought  he  might  capture  it 
by  surprise.  An  officer  was  sent  ashore 
with  a  flag  of  truce.  He  was  met  half 
way  by  a  French  major  and  his  men, 
who,  placing  a  bandage  over  the  intrud- 
er's eyes,  conducted  him  by  a  circuitous 
route  to  the  Castle,  having  recourse  on 
the  way  to  various  stratagems,  such  as 
making  small  bodies  of  soldiers  cross 
and  re-cross  his  path,  to  give  him  the  im- 
pression of  the  presence  of  a  strong  force. 
On  arriving  at  the  Castle,  his  surprise 
we  are  told  was  extreme  on  finding  him- 
self in  the  presence  of  the  Governor-Gen- 
eral, the  Intendant  and  the  Bishop,  with 
a  large  staff  of  French  officers,  uniformed 
in  full  regimentals,  drawn  up  in  the  centre 
of  the  great  hall  ready  to  receive  him. 

The  British  officer  immediately  hand- 
ed to  Frontenac  a  written  demand  for 
an  unconditional  surrender,  in  the  name 


40  FRENCH   CANADA. 

of  the  new  Sovereigns,  William  and  Mary, 
whom  Protestant  England  had  crowned 
instead  of  the  dethroned  and  Catholic 
James.  Taking  his  watch  from  his  pocket 
and  placing  it  on  a  table  near  by,  he  per- 
emptorily demanded  a  positive  answer  in 
an  hour's  time  at  the  furthest.  This  ac- 
tion was  like  the  spark  in  the  tinder,  and 
completely  roused  the  anger  and  indigna- 
tion of  his  hearers,  who  had  scarcely  been 
able  to  restrain  their  excitement  during 
the  reading  of  the  summons,  which  the 
Englishman  had  delivered  in  an  imperious 
voice,  and  which  an  interpreter  had 
translated  word  for  word  to  the  outraged 
audience. 

A  murmur  of  repressed  resentment  ran 
through  the  assembly,  when  one  of  the 
officers,  without  waiting  for  his  superior 
to  reply,  exclaimed  impetuously  : — that 
the  messenger  ought  to  be  treated  as  the 
envoy  of  a  corsair,  or  common  marauder, 
since  Phipps  was  in  arms  against  his  le- 
gitimate Sovereign.  Frontenac,  although 
keenly  hurt  in  his  most  vulnerable  point, 
— his  pride — by  the  lack  of  ceremony  dis- 


HEROES  OF  THE  PAST.  41 

played  in  the  conduct  of  the  Englishman, 
replied  in  a  calm  voice,  but  in  impas- 
sioned words,  saying  loftily  : — "  You  will 
have  no  occasion  to  wait  so  long  for  my 
answer, — here  it  is  : — I  do  not  recognize 
King  William,  but  I  know  that  the  Prince 
of  Orange  is  an  usurper,  who  has  violated 
the  most  sacred  ties  of  blood  and  religion 
in  dethroning  the  King,  his  father-in-law; 
and  I  acknowledge  no  other  legitimate 
Sovereign  than  James  the  Second.  Do 
your  best,  and  I  will  do  mine." 

The  messenger  thereupon  demanded 
that  the  reply  be  given  him  in  writing, 
which  the  Governor  haughtily  refused, 
saying  :— 

u  I  am  going  to  answer  your  master  at 
the  cannon's  mouth  ;  he  shall  be  taught 
that  this  is  not  the  manner  in  which  a 
person  of  my  rank  ought  to  be  sum- 
moned." 

Charlevoix  seems  to  have  very  much 
admired  the  lordly  bearing  of  Frontenac 
on  this  occasion,  which  was  so  trying  to 
his  self-control,  but,  with  an  impartiality 
creditable  to  a  Frenchman,  he  justly 


42  FRENCH  CANADA. 

chronicles  his  equal  admiration  for  the 
coolness  and  presence  of  mind  with  which 
the  Englishman  signalized  himself  in 
carrying  out  his  mission,  under  insults 
and  humiliations  scarcely  to  be  looked  for 
from  those  who  should  have  known  better 
the  respect  due  to  a  flag  of  truce. 

The  commander  of  the  fleet,  finding 
the  place  ready  for  resistance,  concluded 
that  the  lateness  of  the  season  rendered 
it  unwise  to  commence  a  regular  siege 
against  a  city  whose  natural  and  artificial 
defences  made  it  a  formidable  fortress, 
and  which,  when  garrisoned  by  troops  of 
such  temper  and  mettle,  it  appeared  im- 
possible to  reduce.  It  must  also  be  con- 
sidered that  Phipps  had  been  delayed 
by  contrary  winds  and  pilots  ignorant  of 
the  river  navigation,  which  combination 
of  untoward  circumstances  conspired  to 
compel  him  to  relinquish  his  design, 
which  under  more  favouring  conditions  he 
might  have  carried  out  with  success,  and 
conquered  the  place  before  it  could  have 
been  known  in  Montreal  that  it  was  even 
in  danger. 


HEROES  OF  THE  PAST.  43 

"  Without  doubt  Frontenac  was  the 
most  conspicuous  figure  which  the  an- 
nals of  the  early  colonization  of  Canada 
affords.  He  was  the  descendant  of  se- 
veral generations  of  distinguished  men 
who  were  famous  as  courtiers  and  sol- 
diers." He  was  of  Basque  origin  and 
proud  of  his  noble  ancestry.  He  was 
born  in  1620,  and  was  distinguished  by 
becoming  the  god-child  of  the  King,  the 
royal  sponsor  bestowing  his  own  name  on 
the  unconscious  babe,  who  was  in  after 
years  to  be  a  sturdy  defender  of  France's 
dominions  over  the  ocean.  He  became 
a  soldier  at  the  age  of  fifteen,  and  even  in 
early  youth  and  manhood  saw  active 
service  and  gave  promise  of  gallantry  and 
bravery. 

In  October,  1648,  he  married  the  lovely 
young  Anne  de  la  Grange-Trianon,  a 
"  maiden  of  imperious  temper,  lively  wit 
and  marvellous  grace."  She  was  a  beauty 
of  the  court  and  chosen  friend  of  Ma- 
demoiselle de  Montpensier,  the  grand- 
daughter of  King  Henry  the  Fourth.  A 
celebrated  painting  of  the  Comtesse  de 


44  FRENCH  CANADA. 

Frontenac,  in  the  character  of  Minerva, 
smiles  on  the  walls  of  one  of  the  galleries 
at  Versailles. 

The  marriage  took  place  without  the 
consent  of  the  bride's  relatives,  and  soon 
proved  an  ill-starred  one,  the  young  wife's 
fickle  affection  turning  into  a  strong  re- 
pulsion for  her  husband,  whom  she  in- 
trigued to  have  sent  out  of  the  country. 

Her  influence  at  court,  and  some 
jealousy  on  the  part  of  the  King  com- 
bined to  bring  about  this  end,  and  Fron- 
tenac was  appointed  Governor  and  Lieu- 
tenant-General  of  La  Nouvelle  France. 

Parkman  says  : — "  A  man  of  courts 
and  camps,  born  and  bred  in  the  focus  of 
a  most  gorgeous  civilization,  he  was 
banished  to  the  ends  of  the  earth,  among 
savage  hordes  and  half-reclaimed  forests, 
to  exchange  the  splendour  of  St.  Germain 
and  the  dawning  glories  of  Versailles  for 
a  stern,  grey  rock,  haunted  by  sombre 
priests,  rugged  merchants,  traders,  blank- 
eted Indians  and  wild  bushrangers." 
When  he  sailed  up  the  river  and  the  stern 
grandeur  of  the  scene  opened  up  before 
him,  he  felt  as  he  afterwards  wrote  : — 


HEROES  OF  THE  PAST.  45 

"  I  never  saw  anything  more  superb 
than  the  position  of  this  town.  It  could 
not  be  better  situated  for  the  future 
capital  of  an  empire." 

But  the  dainty  and  luxurious  Comtesse 
had  no  taste  for  pioneer  life,  and  no 
thought  of  leaving  her  silken-draped  boii- 
doir  for  a  home  in  a  rude  fort  on  a  rock  ; 
she  therefore  accepted  the  offer  of  a  domi- 
cile with  her  kindred  spirit,  Mademoiselle 
d'Outrelaise.  The  " Divines,"  as  they 
were  called,  established  a  Salon,  which, 
among  the  many  similar  coteries  of  the 
time,  was  remarkable  for  its  wit  and 
gaiety.  It  set  the  fashion  to  French 
society,  and  was  affected  by  all  the  leading 
spirits  of  the  Court  and  Capital. 

Although  an  occasional  billet  came 
from  the  recreant  spouse  to  her  husband 
in  the  Castle  St.  Louis,  no  home  life  nor 
welcoming  domestic  fire-side  threw  a 
charm  over  his  exile.  The  glamour  with 
which  affection  can  glorify  even  the  rudest 
surroundings  was  denied  him  in  his  long 
life  of  seventy-six  years. 

To   avoid  the  confusion   to  which  the 
3 


46  FRENCH  CANADA. 

terms  Fort  St.  Louis  and  Castle  St.  Louis 
might  lead,  it  must  be  understood  that 
they  in  a  measure  were  the  same,  as  the 
one  enclosed  the  other. 

In  the  year  1834,  two  hundred  and 
fourteen  years  after  the  foundation  of 
this  Chateau,  a  banquet  was  prepared 
for  the  reception  of  those  invited  to 
partake  of  the  official  hospitality  of  the 
Governor  ;  when  suddenly  the  tocsin 
sounded, — the  dreaded  alarm  of  fire.  Soon 
the  streets  were  thronged  with  citizens, 
with  anxious  enquiries  passing  from  lip 
to  lip,  and  ere  long  the  cry  was  uttered  : 
"  To  the  Castle,  to  the  Castle  !  " 

The  entire  population  of  merchants  and 
artisans,  soldiers  from  the  garrison, 
priests  from  the  monasteries,  and  citizens, 
rich  and  poor,  joined  hands  with  the  fire- 
men to  save  the  mediaeval  fortress  from 
destruction,  and  its  treasured  contents 
from  the  flames.  Old  silver  was  snatched 
from  the  banquet  table  by  some  who  had 
expected  to  sit  around  the  board  as  guests. 

At  the  head  of  the  principal  staircase, 
where  it  had  stood  for  fifty  years  or  more, 


HEROES  OF  THE  PAST.  47 

was  a  bust  of  Wolfe,  with  the  inscription 
upon  it : — 

"  Let  no  vain  tear  upon  this  bust  be  shed, 
A  common  tribute  to  the  common  dead, 
But  let  the  good,  the  generous,  the  brave, 
With  God-like  envy  sigh  for  such  a  grave." 

Fortunately,  in  the  confusion  of  the  dis- 
aster it  was  not  overlooked,  but  was  carried 
to  a  place  of  safety.  While  every  heart 
present  could  not  but  be  moved  with  the 
deepest  feelings  of  regret  at  the  loss  of  its 
hoary  walls,  yet  the  beholder  was  forced 
to  admire  the  magnificent  spectacular 
effect  of  the  conflagration  which  crowned 
the  battlements  and  reflected  over  crag 
and  river,  as  the  old  fort,  which  had  stub- 
bornly resisted  all  its  enemies  during  five 
sieges,  fell  before  the  devouring  element. 

Its  stones  were  permeated  with  the  mili- 
tary and  religious  history  of  the  "  old  rock 
city,"  for,  in  the  fifteen  years  of  its  occu- 
pancy by  Champlain,  it  was  as  much  a 
mission  as  a  fort.  The  historian  says : — 
"  A  stranger  visiting  the  Fort  of  Quebec 
would  have  been  astonished  at  its  air  of 
conventual  decorum.  Black-robed  Jesuits 


48  FRENCH  CANADA. 

and  scarfed  officers  mingled  at  Champlain's 
table.  There  was  little  conversation,  but 
in  its  place  histories  and  the  lives  of  the 
saints  were  read  aloud,  as  in  a  monastic 
refectory.  Prayers,  masses  and  confes- 
sions followed  each  other,  and  the  bell  of 
the  adjacent  chapel  rang  morning,  noon 
and  night.  Quebec  became  a  shrine.  God- 
less soldiers  whipped  themselves  to  peni- 
tence, women  of  the  world  outdid  each 
other  in  the  fury  of  their  contrition,  and  In- 
dians gathered  thither  for  the  gifts  of  kind 
words  and  the  polite  blandishments  be- 
stowed upon  them." 

The  site  where  the  old  Chateau  St. 
Louis  once  stood,  with  its  halo  of  romance 
and  renown,  is  now  partially  covered  by 
the  great  Quebec  hostelry,  the  Chateau 
Frontenac,  which  in  its  erection  and  ap- 
pointments has  not  destroyed,  but  rather 
perpetuated,  the  traditions  of  the  "  Sentinel 
City  of  the  St.  Lawrence." 

"  Chateau  Frontenac  has  been  planned 
with  the  strong  sense  of  the  fitness  of 
things,  being  a  veritable  old-time  Chateau, 
whose  curves  and  cupolas,  turrets  and 


HEROES  OF   THE  PAST.  49 

towers,  even  whose  tones  of  gray  stone 
and  dulled  brick  harmonize  with  the  sober 
quaint  architecture  of  our  dear  old  Fortress 
City,  and  looks  like  a  small  bit  of  Medi- 
aeval Europe  perched  upon  a  rock/' 

Under  the  promenade  of  Durham  Ter- 
race is  still  the  cellar  of  the  old  Chateau ; 
and  standing  upon  it,  the  patriot,  whether 
English  or  French,  cannot  but  thrill  as  he 
looks  on  the  same  scene  upon  which  the 
heroes  of  the  past  so  often  gazed,  and  from 
which  they  flung  defiance  to  their  foes. 

On  almost  the  same  spot  upon  which 
Champlain  had  landed  at  Montreal,  and 
about  seven  years  after  his  death,  a  small 
band  of  consecrated  men  and  women, 
singing  a  hymn,  drew  up  their  tempest- 
worn  pinnace,  and  raised  their  standard  in 
the  name  of  King  Louis,  while  Maison- 
neuve,  the  ascetic  knight,  planted  a  cruci- 
fix, and  dedicated  the  land  to  God. 

The  city  as  it  stands  on  this  spot  is  a 
fulfilment  of  his  vow  then  made,  when  he 
declared,  as  he  pitched  his  tent  and  lighted 
his  camp-fire,  that  here  he  would  found  a 
city  though  every  tree  on  the  island  were 


50  FRENCH  CANADA. 

an  Iroquois.  On  an  altar  of  bark,  decor- 
ated with  wild  flowers  and  lighted  by  fire- 
flies, the  first  mass  was  celebrated,  and  the 
birthnight  of  Montreal  registered. 

From  the  little  seed  thus  planted  in  this 
rude  altar,  a  mighty  harvest  has  arisen  in 
cathedral,    monastery,    church      and    con- 
vent, representing  untold  wealth  and  influ- 
ence.    The  early  French  explorer,  with  a 
"  sword  in  his  hand  and  a  crucifix  on  his 
breast,"  was  more  desirous  of  Christianizing 
than  of  conquering  the  native  tribes.     So 
completely  has  this  creed  become  identified 
with  the  country's  character   and   history, 
that   the  province  of  Quebec  is  emphati- 
cally a  Catholic  community.     So  faithfully 
have   its  tenets    been    handed    down    by 
generations    of   devout    followers   of  this 
faith,  that    even    the   streets  and  squares 
bear  the  names  of  saints  and  martyrs,  such 
as  St.  Francis  Xavier,  St.  Peter,  St.  John, 
St.  Joseph,  St.  Mary,  and  in  fact  the  entire 
calendar  is  represented,  especially  in  the 
east  end  of  the  town.     St.  Paul,  which  was 
probably  the  first  street  laid  out,  is  called 
after    the    city's    founder    himself, — Paul 
Chomedy  de  Maisonneuve. 


NOTRE-DAME-DE-LA-VICTOIRE. 

A  FEW  rods  to  the  west  of  the  Chateau, 
f*  through  a  vaulted  archway  leading 
from  the  street,  in  the  shadow  of  the  peace- 
ful convent  buildings  is  a  little  chapel  called 
Notre-Dame-de-la-Victoire.  The  swallows 
twittering  under  its  broken  eaves  are  now 
the  only^  sign  of  life  ;  and  its  rotting  tim- 
bers and  threshold,  forgotten  by  the  world, 
give  no  suggestion  of  the  martial  incident 
to  which  it  owes  its  existence.  While  the 
American  Colonies  were  still  English,  the 
British  Ensign  floated  over  Boston  town, 
and  good  Queen  Anne  was  prayed  for  in 
Puritan  pulpits,  an  expedition  was  fitted 
out  under  Sir  Hovenden  Walker  to  drive 
the  French  out  of  Canada.  In  the  previous 
year,  1710,  the  Legislature  of  New  York 
had  taken  steps  to  lay  before  the  Queen 
the  alarming  progress  of  Gallic  domination 
in  America,  saying  : — 

"  It  is  well  known  that  the  French  can 


52  FRENCH  CANADA. 

go  by  water  from  Quebec  to  Montreal ; 
from  thence  they  can  do  the  like  through 
the  rivers  and  lakes,  at  the  risk  of  all  your 
Majesty's  plantations  on  this  Continent,  as 
far  as  Carolina." 

In  the  command  of  Walker  were  sev- 
eral companies  of  regulars  draughted 
from  the  great  Duke  of  Maryborough's 
Army.  While  he  was  leading  it  from  vic- 
tory to  victory  for  the  glory  of  his  King, 
his  wife,  the  famous  Sarah  Jennings,  was 
making  a  conquest  at  home  of  the  affec- 
tions of  the  simple-minded  and  susceptible 
Queen.  It  is  remarkable  that  the  coronet 
of  this  ambitious  woman  should  now  rest 
on  the  brow  of  an  American  girl,  and  that 
a  daughter  of  New  York  should  reign  at 
Blenheim  Castle.  At  that  period  France 
possessed  the  two  great  valleys  of  North 
America,  the  Mississippi  and  the  St.  Law- 
rence ;  to  capture  the  latter  was  the  aim  of 
the  expedition. 

As  the  hostile  fleet  sailed  up  the  St. 
Lawrence,  a  storm  of  great  severity  burst 
upon  the  invaders.  Eight  of  the  transports 
were  recked  on  the  reefs,  and  in  the  dawn 


NOTRE-DAME-DE-LA-VICTOIRE.  53 

of  the  midsummer  morning  the  bodies  of  a 
thousand  red-coated  soldiers  were  strewn 
on  the  sands  of  Isle-aux-CEufs.  It  has 
been  said  that  an  old  sea-dog,  Jean  Para- 
dis,  refused  to  act  as  pilot,  and  in  a  fog 
allowed  them  to  run  straight  on  to  death ; 
and  also  that  among  those  who  perished 
was  one  of  the  court  beauties  who  had 
eloped  with  Sir  Hovenden 

The  disabled  vessels  retreated  before  the 
artillery  of  the  elements,  and  left  Bourbon's 
Lilied  Blue  to  wave  for  half  a  century 
longer  over  Fort  St.  Louis.  This  blood- 
less victory  for  the  French  was  attributed 
by  them  to  the  intervention  of  the  Virgin, 
in  gratitude  for  which  this  chapel  was 
vowed  and  built,  as  was  also  another  on  the 
market  place,  Lower  Town,  Quebec.  The 
miraculous  feature  of  the  defeated  invasion 
was  considered  certain  from  the  fact  that  a 
recluse  in  the  convent  near  the  chapel,  and 
who  was  remarkable  for  her  piety,  had  em- 
broidered a  prayer  to  the  Virgin  on  the 
flag  which  the  Baron  de  Longueuil  had 
borne  from  Montreal  in  command  of  a  de- 
tachment of  troops. 


54  FRENCH  CANADA. 

Some  of  the  original  interior  fittings  of  the 
chapel  still  exist,  but  the  bell  which  chimed 
its  first  call  to  vespers,  when  the  great  city 
was  a  quiet,  frontier  hamlet,  has  long  been 
silent.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  from  its  his- 
torical character  it  has  not  been  preserved 
from  decay,  but  looks  as  time-worn  and 
mouldering  as  does  the  rusty  cannon  in  the 
hall  of  the  Chateau,  which  was  one  of  the 
guns  of  the  ill-fated  fleet,  and  over  which 
the  river  had  flowed  for  almost  two  hun- 
dred years.  Seven  of  England's  sovereigns 
had  lived,  reigned  and  died,  and  in  France 
the  Royal  house  had  fallen  in  the  deluge  of 
blood  that  flowed  around  the  guillotine. 
Quebec  had  changed  flags — the  Tri-color 
had  been  unfurled  over  the  Hoiel-de-  Ville 
at  Paris,  and  the  Stars  and  Stripes  over  the 
new-born  nation. 

The  thrones  of  Europe  had  tottered  at 
the  word  of  the  Corsican  boy, — he  had 
played  with  crowns  as  with  golden  bau- 
bles, and  had  gone  from  the  imperial  purple 
to  the  mist-shrouded  rocks  of  St.  Helena. 
Eugenie,  the  Beautiful,  had  ruled  the  world 
by  her  grace,  and  fled  from  the  throne  of 


NOTRE-DAME-DE-LA-VICTOIRE. 


55 


the  haughty  Louis  to  a  loveless  exile — 
while  the  old  gun,  with  its  charge  rusting  in 
its  mouth,  lay  in  silence  under  the  passing 
keels  of  a  million  craft. 


LE  SEMINAIRE. 

C^TILL  more  ancient  is  a  venerable  pos- 
QJ  tern  in  the  blackened  wall  of  the 
Seminary  of  St.  Sulpice,  near  by,  which  is 
now  the  oldest  building  in  the  city,  being 
erected  some  fifty  years  before  the  Chateau. 
It  leads  by  a  narrow  lane  to  the  gardens  of 
the  Monastery,  which  bloom  quiet  and  still 
here  in  the  heart  of  the  throbbing  life  of 
a  city  of  to-day.  Generations  of  saintly 
men,  under  vows,  have  trodden  in  the  shade 
of  its  walks,  trying  with  the  rigours  of  mon- 
astic life  to  crush  out  the  memories  of  love 
and  home  left  behind  among  the  sun-kissed 
vineyards  of  France.  For  two  hundred 
years  and  more  no  woman's  footstep  had 
fallen  here  among  the  flowers,  until  recent- 
ly the  wife  of  a  Governor-General  was  ad- 
mitted on  a  special  occasion.  On  the 
cobble-stones  of  the  courtyard,  pilgrims, 
penitents,  priests  and  soldiers  have  trodden, 
the  echoes  of  their  footsteps  passing  away 
in  centuries  of  years.  Above  the  walls, 
blackened  by  time  and  pierced  by  windows 


LE   SEMINAIRE.  57 

with  the  small  panes  of  a  fashion  gone  by, 
the  bells  of  the  clock  ring  out  the  stroke  of 
midnight  over  one-third  of  a  million  souls, 
as  it  did  the  hours  of  morning  when  the 
great-great-grandfathers  of  the  present  gen- 
eration ran  to  school  over  the  grass-grown 
pavements  of  young  Ville- Marie. 

"The  inimitable  old  roof-curves  still 
cover  the  walls,  and  the  Fleur-de-Lys  still 
cap  the  pinnacles"  as  in  the  days  when 
Richelieu,  the  prince  of  prelates,  sought  to 
plant  the  feudalism  and  Christianity  of  old 
France  on  the  shores  of  the  new.  They 
still  rise  against  the  blue  of  Canadian  skies 
unmolested,  while  in  France,  in  the  early 
years  of  the  century,  popular  frenzy  dragged 
this  symbol  of  royalty  from  the  spires  of 
the  churches  and  convents  of  Paris. 


CATHEDRALS  AND  CLOISTERS. 


Order  of  the  Gentlemen  of  St.  Sul- 
1  pice  is  supposed  to  be  very  rich,  the 
amount  of  the  immense  revenues  never 
being  made  public.  They  were  the  feudal 
lords  of  the  Island  of  Montreal  in  the  earlier 
chapters  of  its  history.  Through  their  zea- 
lous efforts  and  the  generosity  of  their  pa- 
rishioners was  opened  in  the  year  eighteen 
hundred  and  twenty-nine  the  grand  church 
adjoining,  that  of  Notre  Dame,  built  on 
the  site  of  the  original  parish  church. 
Viewing  it  from  the  extensive  plaza  in 
front,  its  imposing  proportions  fill  the 
beholder  with  the  same  awe  as  when  look- 
ing at  some  lofty  mountain  peak,  but  its 
symmetry  is  so  exquisite  that  its  size  can- 
not at  first  be  appreciated. 

In  imitation  of  its  prototype,  Notre 
Dame  de  Paris>  twin  towers  rise  in  state- 
liness  to  a  height  of  two  hundred  and 
twenty-seven  feet,  and  are  visible  for  a  dis- 


CATHEDRALS  AND  CLOI8TER8.  59 

tance  of  thirty  miles.  The  facade  is  im- 
pressive, the  style  a  modification  of  differ- 
ent schools  adapted  to  carry  out  the  design 
intended.  Three  colossal  statues  of  the 
Virgin,  St.  Joseph  and  St.  John  the  Bap- 
tist are  placed  over  the  arcades.  The 
sublime  structure  belongs  to  a  branch  of 
the  Gothic,  in  the  pointed  arch  type  of 
architecture  which  was  brought  home 
from  the  Crusades, — a  style  which  has 
come  down  from  the  time-honoured  archi- 
tecture of  the  old  world,  when  religious 
thought  that  now  finds  expression  in  books 
was  written  and  symbolized  in  stone. 

From  a  vestibule  at  the  foot  of  the 
western  tower,  an  ascent  of  two  hundred 
and  seventy-nine  steps  offers  a  most  en- 
chanting view  of  mountain,  river,  street  and 
harbour,  with  such  a  wilderness  of  dome, 
steeple  and  belfry,  that  the  exclamation  in- 
voluntarily arises — this  is  truly  a  city  of 
churches ! 

On  the  descent,  a  pause  on  a  platform 
gives  the  opportunity  of  admiring  "  Le 
Gros  Bourdon"  or  great  bell,  and  one  of 
the  largest  in  the  world.  It  weighs  twenty- 


60  FRENCH  CANADA. 

four  thousand,  seven  hundred  and  eighty 
pounds,  and  is  six  feet  high.  Its  mouth 
measures  eight  feet,  seven  inches  in  dia- 
meter. The  tone  is  magnificent  in  depth 
and  fullness.  On  occasions  such  as  the 
death  of  high  ecclesiastics  or  other  solemn 
events,  its  tolling  is  indescribable  in  its 
slow,  sonorous  vibrations.  In  the  eastern 
tower  hang  ten  smaller  bells  of  beautiful 
quality,  and  so  harmonized  that  choice  and 
varied  compositions  can  be  performed  by 
the  eighteen  ringers  required  in  their 
manipulation.  On  high  festivals,  when  all 
ring  out  with  brazen  tongues,  caught  up 
and  re-echoed  from  spire  to  spire  in  what 
Victor  Hugo  describes  as  : — "  Mingling 
and  blending  in  the  air  like  a  rich  em- 
broidery of  all  sorts  of  melodious  sounds  " 
— America  can  furnish  no  greater  oratorio. 
Its  interior,  which  is  profusely  embel- 
lished and  enriched,  the  spacious,  two- 
storied  galleries,  in  a  twilight  of  mysterious 
gloom,  and  an  altar  upon  which  so  much 
wealth  has  been  consecrated,  combine  to 
make  it  a  temple  worthy  of  any  time  or 
race. 


CATHEDRALS  AND  CLOISTERS.  Q\ 

"Whatever  may  be  the  external  differ- 
ences, we  always  find  in  the  Christian 
Cathedral,  no  matter  how  modified,  the 
Roman  Basilica.  It  rises  forever  from  the 
ground  in  harmony  with  the  same  laws. 
There  are  invariably  two  naves  intersect- 
ing each  other  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  the 
upper  end  being  rounded  into  a  chancel  or 
choir.  There  are  always  side  aisles  for 
processions  or  for  chapels,  and  a  sort  of 
lateral  gallery  into  which  the  principal 
nave  opens  by  means  of  the  spaces 
between  the  columns. 

"  The  number  of  chapels,  steeples,  doors 
and  spires  may  be  modified  indefinitely, 
according  to  the  century,  the  people  and 
the  art.  Statues,  stained  glass,  rose-win- 
dows, arabesques,  denticulations,  capitals 
and  bas-reliefs  are  employed  according  as 
they  are  desired.  Hence  the  immense 
variety  in  the  exterior  of  structures,  within 
which  there  dwells  such  unity  and  order." 

The   nave    here    is  two    hundred   and 
twenty  feet  long,  almost  eighty  in  height, 
and  one  hundred  and  twenty  in  width,  in- 
cluding the  side  aisles.     The  walls,  which 
4 


62  FRENCH  CANADA. 

are  five  feet  thick,  have  fourteen  side  win- 
dows forty  feet  high,  which  light  softly  the 
galleries  and  grand  aisle.  So  admirable  is 
the  arrangement,  that  fifteen  thousand  peo- 
ple can  find  accommodation  and  hear  per- 
fectly in  all  parts  of  the  building.  On  high 
festivals,  such  as  Christmas  or  Easter,  when 
the  great  organ,  said  to  be  the  finest 
in  America,  under  the  fingers  of  a  mas- 
ter, with  full  choir  and  orchestra,  rolls  out 
the  music  of  the  masses,  the  senses  are 
enthralled  by  the  magnificence  of  the  har- 
mony. The  various  altars  and  mural 
decorations  are  beautiful  with  painting, 
gilding  and  carving.  In  the  subdued  light, 
which  filters  through  the  stained  windows, 
are  found  many  things  of  especial  sanctity 
to  the  faithful.  On  a  column  rests  an  ex- 
quisite little  statuette  of  the  Virgin,  which 
was  a  gift  from  Pope  Pius  the  Ninth,  the 
finely  chased  and  wrought  crucifix  and  the 
riband  attached  to  it  having  been  worn 
around  the  neck  of  the  High  Pontiff  himself. 
Directly  opposite  to  it  is  a  statue  of  St. 
Peter,  a  copy  of  that  at  Rome.  Fifty  days 
indulgence  are  granted  to  those  who  pious- 


CATHEDRALS  AND  CLOISTERS.  63 

ly  kiss  this  image.  Under  one  altar  rest 
the  bones  of  St.  Felix,  which  were  taken 
from  the  Catacombs  at  Rome,  and  on  an- 
other is  a  picture  of  the  Madonna,  said  to 
be  a  copy  of  one  painted  by  St.  Luke.  On 
all  the  shrines  are  candlesticks,  votive  offer- 
ings and  many  other  articles  of  great  age, 
value  and  veneration. 

The  main  altar  is  exceedingly  rich  in 
artistic  ornamentation,  representing  in  its 
design  the  religious  history  of  the  world, 
and  is  the  only  one  of  the  kind  in  exist- 
ence. Although  the  foundation  stones 
of  this  great  pile  were  laid  seventy  years 
ago,  this  grand  anthem  in  stone  has  not 
yet  reached  its  "amen,"  many  additions 
to  it  being  yet  in  contemplation. 

Like  many  others  of  earth  master- 
pieces in  architecture,  it  is  at  once  the 
monument  to  and  the  mausoleum  of  its 
builder,  whose  body,  according  to  his 
dying  request,  although  a  Protestant, 
lies  in  the  vaults  beneath  his  greatest 
life-work. 

Through  some  halls  and  corridors  back 
of  the  grand  altar  is  the  chapel  of  "  Our 


64  FRENCH  CANADA. 

Lady  of  the  Sacred  Heart,"  which  is  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  sanctuaries  in  the 
city,  and  remarkable  for  the  harmony  of 
its  lines  and  proportions.  It  is  in  the 
form  of  a  cross,  ninety  feet  in  length, 
eighty-five  feet  in  the  transept  with  an 
altitude  of  fifty-five  feet.  The  splendour 
of  its  ornamentation,  carving,  sculpture, 
elegant  galleries,  panels  in  mosaic,  original 
paintings  by  Canadian  artists,  and  a 
beautiful  reproduction  of  Raphael's 
celebrated  frieze  of  "  The  Dispute  of  the 
Blessed  Sacrament,"  unite  to  constitute 
this  piece  of  ecclesiastical  architecture  a 
chef  d?  oeuvre. 

An  iconoclast  might  marvel  at  the 
absorption  in  prayer  of  some  of  the  de- 
votees, among  accessories  bewildering  to 
eyes  accustomed  to  the  plainer  surround- 
ings of  other  forms  of  ritual,  but  the  wor- 
ship of  those  in  attendance  seems  sincere 
and  complete. 

Following  the  footsteps  of  Cartier  to 
where,  near  the  foot  of  Mount  Royal,  he 
found  the  Indian  village  of  Hochelaga, 
is  now  to  be  seen  the  St.  James'  Cathedral, 


CATHEDRALS  AND  CLOISTERS.  65 

which  is  a  reduced  copy  of  St.  Peter's  at 
Rome,  the  great  centre  from  which 
radiates  the  Catholicism  of  Christendom. 
It  is  somewhat  less  than  half  the  dimen- 
sions of  its  model,  with  certain  modifica- 
tions necessary  in  the  differences  of  cli- 
mate. The  work  was  entrusted  to  M. 
Victor  Bourgeau,  who,  to  gain  the  in- 
formation necessary  to  carry  out  success- 
fully a  repetition  of  the  great  master, 
Michael  Angelo's  conception,  spent  some 
time  in  the  Eternal  City  studying  the 
various  details.  But  the  real  architect, 
it  may  be  said,  who  made  the  plans  and 
supervised  and  directed  the  building  of 
the  sacred  monument,  was  Rev.  Father 
Michaud,  of  the  St.  Viateur  Order.  To 
raise  the  funds  necessary  for  the  initial 
work,  every  member  of  the  immense 
diocese  was  taxed  ;  and  even  now,  after 
a  lapse  of  thirty  years,  it  is  still  un- 
finished, so  great  has  been  the  expense 
involved.  The  handsome  facade  is  ela- 
borately columned  in  cut-stone,  for  which 
only  blocks  of  the  most  perfect  kind  were 
used. 


66  FRENCH  CANADA. 

Like  the  colossal  dome  at  Rome,  this 
one  towers  above  every  other  structure  in 
the  city,  with  the  height  of  the  cross  in- 
cluded, being  forty  feet  higher  than  the 
lofty  towers  of  Notre  Dame.  It  is  seventy 
feet  in  diameter,  and  two  hundred  and 
ten  feet  above  the  pavement.  It  is  after 
the  work  of  Brunelleschi,  whose  exquisite 
art  and  genius  flung  the  airy  grace  of  his 
incomparable  domes  against  Florentine 
and  Roman  skies. 

There  is  none  of  the  "dim,  religious 
light"  in  the  interior  decoration  of  white 
and  gold,  the  subtle  colouring  of  the  sym- 
bolic frescoing  and  the  brilliance  of  the 
gold  and  brazen  altar  furnishing.  At  a 
service  celebrated  especially  for  the  Papal 
Zuaves,  the  picturesque  red  and  grey  of 
their  uniform,  the  priests  in  gorgeous 
canonicals  of  scarlet,  stiff  with  gold,  the 
acolytes  in  white  surplices  and  the  vener- 
able archbishop  in  cardinal  and  purple, 
with  a  chorus  from  Handel  ringing 
through  the  vaulted  roof,  a  full  concep- 
tion of  the  Papal  form  of  worship  can  be 
obtained  ;  while  a  squaw  in  blanket  and 


CATHEDRALS  AND  CLOISTERS.  67 

moccasins  kneeling  on  the  floor  beside  a 
fluted  pillar  seems  the  living  symbol  of 
the  heathendom  the  early  fathers  came  to 
convert. 

In  Canada  the  Jesuits  have  always 
been  prominent  in  its  history,  signalizing 
themselves  by  extraordinary  devotion  and 
self-sacrifice,  and  were  among  the  earliest 
explorers  of  the  Continent,  the  first 
sound  of  civilization  over  many  of  the 
lakes  and  rivers  being  the  chant  of  the 
capuchined  friar.  Fathers  Brebceuf 
and  Lalemant,  burnt  by  the  Indians ; 
Garreau,  butchered  ;  Chabanel,  drowned 
by  an  apostate  Huron,  and  others  hid- 
eously tortured,  testified  with  their  blood 
to  their  devotion.  From  the  Atlantic  to 
the  prairies,  from  the  bleak  shores  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  to  the  sunny  beaches  of 
Louisiana,  they  suffered,  bled  and  died. 

It  is  said  the  Jesuits  have  a  genius  for 
selecting  sites,  and  certainly  the  situation 
of  their  especial  church  and  adjoining 
colleges  bears  out  the  statement.  Like 
the  other  churches  of  this  most  Catholic 
city,  it  is  not  complete,  the  towers  having 


68  FRENCH  CANADA. 

yet  to  be  continued  into  spires.  It  is 
much  frequented  for  the  fine  music  and 
admired  for  its  beautiful  interior.  It  is  in 
the  Florentine  Renaissance  style,  which 
is  the  one  usually  favoured  by  this  Order. 
The  frescoes  are  unusually  pleasing, 
being  in  soft  tones  of  monochrome,  the 
work  of  eminent  Roman  artists,  and  are 
reproductions  of  the  modern  German 
School  of  Biblical  scenes  and  from  the 
history  of  the  Jesuits.  There  are  in  addi- 
tion some  fine  paintings  by  the  Gagliardi 
brothers  at  Rome  and  others. 

In  the  Eastern  part  of  the  city,  com- 
monly called  the  French  quarter,  so 
purely  French  are  the  people,  with  tem- 
peraments as  gay  and  volatile  as  in  Le 
Beau  Paris  itself,  is  a  gem  of  architecture 
in  the  church  of  "  Our  Lady  of  Lourdes." 
This  chapel,  reared  as  a  visible  expression 
of  the  dogma  of  the  Immaculate  Concep- 
tion, is  of  the  Byzantine  and  Renaissance 
type,  a  style  frequently  to  be  seen  re- 
flected from  the  lagoons  of  Venice. 

"  The  choir  and  transepts  terminate  in 
a  circular  domed  apsis,  and  a  large  cen- 


CATHEDRALS  AND  CLOISTERS.  69 

tral  dome  rises  at  the  intersection  of  the 
latter.  The  statue  over  the  altar,  and 
whrch  immediately  strikes  the  eye,  is 
symbolic  of  the  doctrine  illustrated.  The 
Virgin  is  represented  in  the  attitude 
usually  shown  in  the  Spanish  School  of 
Painters,  with  hands  crossed  upon  the 
breast,  standing  on  a  cloud  with  the 
words  :  '  A  woman  clothed  with  the  sun 
and  the  moon  under  her  feet.'  A  sin- 
gularly beautiful  light,  thrown  down 
from  an  unseen  source,  casts  a  kind  of 
heavenly  radiance  around  the  figure  with 
fine  effect. 

"  Some  of  the  painting  is  exceedingly 
good.  The  decoration  of  the  church,  in 
gold  and  colours,  arabesque  and  fifteenth 
century  ornament,  is  very  beautiful  and 
harmonious.  This  building  is  interest- 
ing as  being  the  only  one  of  the  kind  in 
America." 

By  descending  a  narrow  stairway, 
which  winds  beneath  the  floor,  is  found  a 
shrine  fitted  up  in  imitation  of  the  grotto 
near  Lourdes,  in  France,  in  which  it  is 
said  the  Virgin  appeared  to  a  young 


70 


FRENCH  CANADA. 


girl,  Bernadette  Souberous,  at  which  time 
a  miracle-working  fountain  is  said  to 
have  gushed  out  of  the  rock,  and  still 
continues  its  wonderful  cures.  A  goblet 
of  the  water  stands  on  the  altar,  and  is 
said  to  have  powers  of  healing.  This 
underground  shrine,  lighted  only  by  dim, 
coloured  lamps,  gives  a  sensation  of 
peculiar  weirdness  after  the  light  and 
beauty  of  the  structure  above. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  church  of  French 
Canada  of  deeper  interest  than   "Notre 
4 


CATHEDRALS  AND  CLOISTERS.  71 

DamedeBonsccours"  On  its  site  stood  the 
first  place  of  worship  built,  for  which 
Maisonneuve  himself  assisted  to  cut  and 
draw  the  timbers,  some  of  which  are  still 
in  existence.  The  name  Bonsecours, 
signifying  succour,  was  given  on  account 
of  a  narrow  escape  of  the  infant  colony 
from  the  Iroquois.  The  present  building, 
erected  in  1771  on  the  old  foundations, 
was,  until  a  few  years  ago,  remarkable 
for  its  graceful  tin  roof  and  finely-pointed 
spire.  The  rear  having  since  been 
altered  in  a  manner  entirely  out  of  keep- 
ing with  the  original,  which  time  had 
"painted  that  sober  hue  which  makes 
the  antiquity  of  churches  their  greatest 
beauty,"  much  of  the  charm  which  made 
it  unique  has  been  destroyed.  If  it  is 
true  that  it  was  an  act  of  piety  on  the 
part  of  a  devoted  priest,  it  is  another 
proof  that  zeal  at  times  outruns  correct 
taste. 

The  statue  of  heroic  size  on  the  new 
portion  of  the  edifice,  with  arms  uplifted 
as  if  in  blessing,  was  the  gift  of  a  noble 
of  Brittany.  It  was  brought  over  in  the 


72  FRENCH  CANADA. 

Seventeenth  Century,  and  for  two  hundred 
years  has  been  the  patron  saint  of  sailors, 
who  ascribe  to  it  miraculous  powers.  Its 
ancient  pews,  the  crutches  on  the  walls, 
and  pictures  which  are  among-  the  first 
works  of  art  brought  to  the  country,  sug- 
gest the  varied  scenes  which  have  taken 
place  around  the  old  sanctuary  since  its 
doors  were  first  opened  for  worship. 

The  ascent  of  a  hundred  steps  reveals 
the  daintiest  and  most  aerial  of  chapels 
above  the  roof  of  the  church.  Tiny 
coloured  windows,  designed  in  lilies 
and  pierced  hearts,  a  microscopic  organ, 
brought  from  France,  no  one  knows  when, 
and  a  few  rows  of  seats  are  the  furnishing. 
The  altar,  instead  of  the  usual  appearance, 
is  a  miniature  house.  Its  history  is  as 
follows  : — "  One  of  the  most  remarkable 
events  in  the  history  of  the  Church  was 
the  sudden  disappearance  of  the  house 
which  had  been  inhabited  by  the  Holy 
Family  at  Nazareth  in  Galilee.  This 
took  place  in  1291.  As  this  sacred  relic 
was  about  to  be  exposed  to  the  danger  of 
being  destroyed  by  the  Saracen  infidels, 


CATHEDRALS  AND  CLOISTERS.  73 

it  was  miraculously  raised  from  its  foun- 
dations and  transported  by  angels  to  Dal- 
matia,  where,  early  in  the  morning-,  some 
peasants  discovered  on  a  small  hill,  a 
house  without  foundations,  half  converted 
into  a  shrine,  and  with  a  steeple  like  a 
chapel. 

The  next  day  their  venerable  bishop 
informed  them  that  Our  Lady  had  ap- 
peared to  him  and  said  that  this  house 
had  been  carried  by  angels  from  Nazareth, 
and  was  the  same  in  which  she  had  lived  ; 
that  the  altar  had  been  erected  by  the 
apostles,  and  the  statue  sculptured  in 
cedar  wood  had  been  made  by  St.  Luke. 
Three  years  afterwards  it  again  disap- 
peared, its  luminous  journey  being  wit- 
nessed by  some  Italian  shepherds. 

Its  present  position  is  about  a  mile 
from  the  Adriatic,  at  Loretto,  just  as  the 
angels  placed  it  six  hundred  years  ago. 
Millions  of  pilgrims  visit  it  from  all  parts 
of  the  world." 

For  the  aerial  chapel  of  Bonsecours,  a 
fac-simile  has  been  obtained.  To  render 
it  more  sacred  it  was  placed  for  a  period 


74  FRENCH  CANADA. 

within  the  holy  house,  it  touched  its  walls, 
and  was  blessed  with  holy  water  in  the 
vessel  from  which  our  Lord  drank.  Such 
is  the  alleged  history  of  this  shrine,  and 
the  peculiar  sanctity  attached  to  it. 

The  extensive  convent  buildings  of  the 
Grey  Nuns  and  other  sisterhoods  are  as 
numerous  as  the  churches.  As  the  matin 
bell  falls  on  the  ear  in  the  early  morning 
hours,  calling  to  prayers  those  who  have 
chosen  the  austerities  and  serenities  of 
convent  life,  it  recalls  to  memory  the  noble 
band  of  ladies  of  the  old  aristocracy  who 
left  chateaux  hoary  with  the  traditions  of 
a  chivalrous  ancestry,  and  dear  with  the 
memories  of  home,  in  the  company  of 
rough  seamen  to  brave  the  untried  perils 
of  the  ocean,  a  hostile  country,  homesick- 
ness and  death,  to  carry  spiritual  and 
bodily  healing  to  the  savages.  Their  fol- 
lowers keep  the  same  vigils  now  among 
the  sins  and  sorrows  of  the  bustling  city. 
They  glide  through  the  streets  with  down- 
cast eyes,  in  sombre  robes,  wimple  and 
linen  coif,  bent  on  missions  of  church  ser- 
vice and  errands  of  mercy,  tending  the 


CATHEDRALS  AND  CLOISTERS.  75 

sick  and   suffering,   and  striving  to  win 
back  human  wrecks  to  a  better  life. 

The  various  sisterhoods  differ  in  de- 
grees of  austerity,  the  Grey  Nuns  being 
one  of  the  least  exacting.  Their  Found- 
ling Hospital,  it  is  said,  had  its  origin  in 
a  most  touching  circumstance.  One  of 
the  original  members  of  the  Order, 
Madame  d'Youville,  on  leaving  the  con- 
vent gates  in  the  middle  of  winter,  found 
frozen  in  the  ice  of  a  little  stream  that 
then  flowed  near  what  is  called  Foundling 
street,  an  infant  with  a  poignard  in  its 
heart.  Since  then  tens  of  thousands  of 
these  small  outcasts  have  found  sanctuary 
and  tender  care  within  the  cloister  walls. 

The  daughter  of  Ethan  Allan,  the 
founder  of  Vermont,  died  a  member  of 
this  Order. 

The  Carmelites  are  the  most  rigid  in 
their  requirements  of  service.  They  are 
small  numerically  and  live  behind  high 
walls,  and  renounce  forever  the  sight  of 
the  outside  world,  never  leaving  their 
cloister,  and  being  practically  dead  to 
home  and  friends,  sleeping,  it  is  said,  in 
their  own  coffins. 


76  FRENCH  CANADA. 

9 

Instances  have  been  known  of  a  sister's 
assuming  vows  of  special  severity,  as  in 
the  case  of  Jean  Le  Ber,  of  the  Congrega- 
tion de  Notre  Dame,  a  daughter  of  a  mer- 
chant in  the  town,  who  voluntarily  lived 
in  solitary  confinement  from  the  year  1695 
to  1714 — nineteen  years  of  self-immola- 
tion, when  her  couch  was  a  pallet  of  straw, 
and  her  prayers  and  fastings  unceasing. 
She  denied  herself  everything  that  to  us 
would  make  life  desirable  or  even  endur- 
able— sacrificed  the  dearest  ties  of  kindred, 
and  pursued  with  intense  fervour  the  self- 
imposed  rigours  of  her  vocation.  Yet,  it 
was  not  that  in  her  nature  she  had  no 
love  for  beauty  nor  craving  for  pleasure, 
for  in  the  sacristy  of  the  Cathedral,  care- 
fully preserved  in  a  receptacle  in  which 
are  kept  the  vestments  of  the  clergy,  are 
robes  ornamented  by  her  needle  that  are 
simply  marvels  of  colour,  design  and  ex- 
quisite finish.  The  modern  robes,  though 
gorgeous  in  richly-piled  velvet  from  the 
looms  of  Lyons,  heavy  with  gold  work 
and  embroidered  with  angels  and  figures 
so  exquisitely  wrought  as  to  look  as  if 


CATHEDRALS  AND  CLOISTERS.  77 

painted  on  ivory,  yet  do  not  compare  with 
that  done  by  the  fingers  that  were  worn 
by  asceticism  within  the  walls  of  her  cell. 
In  the  spare  form,  clad  in  thread-bare 
garments,  there  must  have  been  crushed 
down  a  gorgeously  artistic  nature  which 
found  visible  expression  in  the  beautifully 
adorned  chasubles  of  the  priests  and  altar 
cloths,  which  are  solid  masses  of  delicate 
silken  work  on  a  ground  of  fine  silver 
threads,  the  colours  and  lustre  of  which 
seem  unimpaired  by  time.  Six  genera- 
tions of  priests  have  performed  the  sacri- 
fice of  the  mass  in  these  marvellously 
beautiful  robes,  the  incense  from  the  sway- 
ing censors  of  two  hundred  years  have 
floated  around  them  in  waves  of  perfume. 
The  taste  and  skill  with  which  high-born 
ladies  of  that  time  wrought  tapestries  to 
hang  on  their  castle  walls  were  conse- 
crated by  her  to  religion,  in  devoting  to 
the  Church,  work  which  was  fit  to  adorn 
the  royal  drapings  of  a  Zenobia. 

Without  the  magnificence  which  distin- 
guishes the  cathedrals,  some  of  the  rural 
shrines  are  full  of  interest.  The  church 


78  FRENCH  CANADA. 

of  Ste.  Annes,  an  old  building  near  the 
western^end  of  the  island,  and  one  of  the 
oldest  sacerdotal  edifices  in  America,  has 
around  it  a  halo  of  romance  and  piety 
since  the  fur-trading  days,  being  the  last 
church  visited  by  the  voyageurs  and  their 
last  glimpse  of  civilization  before  facing 
the  dangers  of  the  pathless  wilderness  of 
the  West.  At  its  altar  these  rough,  half- 
wild  men  knelt  to  pray  and  put  themselves 
under  the  protection  of  their  titular  Sainfe 
Anne. 

The  Trappists,  though  rarely  seen  out- 
side the  walls  of  their  retreat,  look  precisely 
as  did  mediaeval  monks  of  centuries  ago, 
with  whose  appearance  we  are  familiar  in 
pictures  of  Peter  the  Hermit  and  other 
zealots,  who  with  their  fiery  eloquence  sent 
the  Armies  of  Christendom  to  fight  for  the 
Holy  Sepulchre.  They  dress  in  a  coarse 
brown  gown  and  cowl,  with  a  girdle  of  rope, 
and  are  under  vows  of  perpetual  silence. 
They  live  on  frugal  meals  of  vegetables  and 
fruit  twice  a  day,  have  the  head  tonsured, 
and  feet  bare  in  sandals.  The  continued 
fasts,  severe  flagellations,  labours  and  medi- 


CATHEDRALS  AND  CLOISTERS.  79 

tations  of  those  anchorites  make  the  regu- 
lations governing-  this  order  exceedingly 
strict,  and  recall  the  times  when  kings  and 
emperors,  in  the  same  monkish  garb, 
walked  barefoot  to  knock  humbly  in  pen- 
ance at  monastery  gates. 

Perhaps  the   most  unique  shrine  in  the 
province  is  that  of  Mount  Rigaud,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Ottawa,  not  far  from  the  spot 
where  Bollard  and  his  band  of  Christian 
knights  lay  down  their  lives.     The  moun- 
tain is  regarded  with  much  superstition  by 
the  ignorant,  on  account  of  its  peculiar  and 
unaccountable  natural  phenomena,  whose 
origin  has  puzzled  the  most  learned  scien- 
tists to  account  for.     The  wooded    moun- 
tain  is   crowned  by  what  is  called  "  The 
Field  of  Stones,"    or   "  The  Devil's  Gar- 
den," from  a    deposit  of  almost  spherical 
boulders,  of  so  far  unmeasured  depth,  which 
cover  its  surface.     Encircled  by  trees  and 
verdure,  this  strange  formation  of  several 
acres  in  extent  is  composed  mainly  of  rock 
different  from  the   mass  of  the   mountain, 
which  belongs   to  the  same  family  as  the 
igneous  mountains  of  the  neighbouring  re- 


80  FRENCH  CANADA. 

gion.  What  were  the  causes  and  condi- 
tions which  carried  this  strange  material  to 
the  top  of  this  elevation  will,  when  they  are 
explained,  be  of  intense  interest.  It  is  said 
that  the  only  other  deposit  similar,  though 
smaller  in  extent,  is  in  Switzerland.  Per- 
haps some  ancient  glacier,  through  eons  of 
time,  gradually  melted  here,  and  slowly  de- 
posited the  drift  it  had  borne  from  regions 
far  away. 

A  bold  spur  of  the  hill  has  been  convert- 
ed into  a  shrine,  adorned  with  images,  while 
on  the  bare  rough  sides  of  the  lichen- 
covered  rocks  have  been  inscribed  in  large 
white  letters  the  words  "  Penitence — Peni- 
tence." At  regular  intervals  on  the  stony 
road  approaching  it  are  what  are  called  the 
"  Stations  of  the  Cross."  They  are  four- 
teen in  number,  being  little  chapels  made 
from  the  uncut  stones  of  the  "  Devil's  Gar- 
den." The  floors  of  these,  on  which  the 
penitents  kneel  before  pictures  of  the 
"  Passion,"  are  covered  with  sand  and 
coarse  gravel. 

The  conquest  of  Canada  in  1759  by  the 
English  differed  from  that  of  Britain  by  the 


CATHEDRALS  AND  CLOISTERS.  81 

Norman  French  in  1066,  in  that  here  the 
vanquished  were  allowed  to  retain  their 
language,  customs  and  full  religious  liber- 
ties, so  that,  after  a  lapse  of  one  hundred 
and  fifty  years,  the  Papal  service  is  solem- 
nized with  all  the  pomp  and  ceremonial  of 
the  Vatican,  and  in  the  courts,  the  Quebec 
Legislature  and  in  Society  is  heard  the 
euphonic  French  speech,  and,  outside  of 
Rome,  Canada  is  considered  the  chief  bul- 
wark of  Papacy. 


THE  MASSACRE  OF    LACHINE. 

THE  conquest    and   settlement    of  all 
new    regions   are  necessarily  more  or 
less  written  in  blood,  and  the  natural  char- 
acteristics   of  the  North  American  Indian 
have  caused  much  of  the  early  history  of 
Canada  to  be  traced  in  deeds  of  horror  and 
agony  lighted  by  the  torture  fire,  with  suf- 
ferings the  most  exquisite  of  which  the  hu- 
man mind  can  conceive.     When  these  were 
inflicted  on  individuals,  it  was  sufficiently 
heartrending,    but  when  a  whole  commu- 
nity fell  a  victim  to  their  ferocity,  as  was 
the  case  in  what  is  called  "  The  Massacre 
of  Lachine,"    the    details  are   too  horrible 
for  even   the    imagination  to  dwell  upon. 
Standing  on  the  river  bank,  or  "  shooting  " 
the  rapids  in  the  steamer,    with  the  green 
shores  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  dotted 
with   villages    and    villas,   the    wonderful 
bridges  spanning  the  stream,  and  beyond, 
the  great  city  with  its  domes  and  spires,  it 
can  scarcely  be  realized  that    for  two  days 


THE  MASSACRE  OF  LAGHINE.      83 

and  two  nights  the  spot  was  a  scene  of  the 
most  revolting-  carnage.  It  was  an  even- 
ing in  the  summer  of  i689.  In  spite  of  a 
storm  of  wind  and  rain  which  broke  over 
the  young  settlement,  the  fields  of  grain 
and  meadows  looked  cheerful  and  thrifty. 
In  each  cabin  home  the  father  had  returned 
from  the  day's  toil  in  the  harvest  field  and 
was  sitting  by  the  fireside,  where  the  kettle 
sang  contentedly.  The  mother  sat  spin- 
ning or  knitting,  and  perhaps  singing  a  lul- 
laby, as  she  rocked  the  cradle,  little  reck- 
ing that  ere  the  morning  dawned  the  ham- 
let would  lie  in  ashes,  and  the  tomahawk  of 
the  Indian  be  buried  in  her  babies'  hearts  ; 
but  such  was  the  case,  for  after  forty-eight 
hours  of  fiendish  cruelty,  death  and  desola- 
tion reigned  for  miles  along  the  shores. 
Where  the  blue  smoke  had  curled  up 
among  the  trees  were  only  the  smoking 
ruins  of  hearths  and  homes,  surrounded  with 
sights  and  suggestions  of  different  forms  of 
death,  which  even  the  chronicler,  two  hun- 
dred years  after,  is  fain  to  pass  by  in  shud- 
dering silence. 

The    crumbling   remains  of  a   fortified 


84  FRENCH  CANADA. 

seigniorial  chateau,  within  sight  of  the  Ra- 
pids of  Lachine,  a  tradition  asserts,  was  in 
the  year  1668  the  home  of  La  Salle,  who 
was  one  of  the  most  excellent  men  of  his 
day.  Leaving  his  fair  demesne,  which  the 
Sulpicians  had  conferred  upon  him,  and  the 
home  which  to-day  is  slowly  falling  to  decay 
among  the  apple- orchards  along  the  river 
side,  he  too  followed  his  thirst  for  adventure 
into  untrodden  fields. 

There  is  a  well-founded  legend  that  the 
old  chimney  attached  thereto  was  built  by 
Champlain  in  his  trading  post  of  logs.  It 
is  of  solid  masonry,  and  is  sixty  years  older 
than  the  walls  which  surround  it.  The  wide 
fireplace  has  a  surface  of  fifty  square  feet, 
and  is  the  most  interesting  piece  of  archi- 
tecture in  all  Canada.  The  snowflakes  of 
almost  three  hundred  winters  have  fallen 
into  its  cavernous  depths  since  these  stones 
and  mortar  were  laid.  When  Champlain 
stood  by  its  hearth,  as  its  first  blaze,  lighted 
by  tinder  and  flint,  roared  up  to  the  sky — 
William  Shakespeare  was  still  writing  his 
sublime  lines,  Queen  Elizabeth  had  lain  but 
twelve  years  in  her  marble  tomb,  and  the 


THE  MASSACRE  OF  LAGHINE.      g5 

Chateau  de  Ramezay  was  not  to  be  built  for 
a  hundred  years  to  come.  Often  in  the  two 
years  during  which  it  had  for  La  Salle  the 
sacredness  of  the  home  fireside,  its  light 
must  have  fallen  on  his  handsome  young 
face,  and  flowing  curls,  as  he  laid  out 
plans  for  his  palisaded  village,  and  dreamt 
of  the  golden  lands  towards  the  setting  sun. 
He  was  a  true  patriot,  and  literally  gave  his 
life  for  the  advancement  of  his  country,  be- 
ing murdered  in  the  Lower  Mississippi  by 
one  of  his  own  men  while  endeavouring  to 
extend  its  territory. 

Posterity  is  not  true  to  the  memory 
of  these  great  pioneers,  for  the  elements 
beat  upon  the  roofless  timbers,  the  north 
wind  sweeps  the  hearth  that  is  mould- 
ering under  the  rains  and  sunshine  of  the 
skies  they  loved.  In  another  generation  all 
that  can  be  said  will  be — here  once  stood 
the  historic  stones  of  the  ancient  fireside  of 
the  heroes  who  won  the  wilderness  for  those 
who  have  allowed  this  monument  of  their 
fortitude  and  self-sacrifice  to  crumble  into 
dust. 

La    Salle  had  heard   from    some    stray 


86 


FRENCH  CANADA. 


bands  of  Seneca  Indians,  who  had  visited 
his  post  at  Lachine,  of  a  great  river  that 
flowed  from  their  hunting  grounds  to  the 
sea.  Imagining  it  would  open  his  way  to 
find  the  route  to  the  golden  Ind,  he  sold 
his  grant  at  Lachine,  and  in  company  with 
two  priests  from  the  Seminary  at  Montreal, 
and  some  Senecas  as  guides,  started  on 
July  6th,  1669.  With  visions  of  finding  for 
France  a  clime  of  warmer  suns  and  more 
rich  in  silver  and  gold  than  Canada,  he 
pushed  on.  The  priests  on  their  return 


THE  MASSACRE  OF  LACHINE.      87 

brought  back  nothing  of  any  value  except 
the  first  map  procured  of  the  upper  lake 
region. 

One  of  the  most  enthusiastic  fellow  trav- 
elers of  La  Salle  was  a  Franciscan,  Father 
Hennepin.  They  crossed  the  ocean  from 
France  together,  and  probably  beguiled 
many  an  hour  of  the  long  voyage  in  rela- 
ting their  dreams  of  finding  the  treasures 
hidden  in  the  land  to  which  the  prow  of 
the  vessel  pointed. 

Hennepin  also  penetrated  to  the  Missis- 
sippi, reaching  in  his  wanderings  a  beau- 
tiful fall  foaming  between  its  green  bluffs 
which  he  named  St.  Anthony,  on  which 
spot  now  stands  the  "  Flour  City,"  Min- 
neapolis, in  the  county  of  Hennepin,  Minne- 
sota. He  probably  heard  of  the  other  falls, 
five  miles  away,  which  we  know  as  Minne- 
haha,  and  around  which  the  sweetest  of 
American  poets  has  woven  the  witchery  of 
Indian  legend  in  the  wooing  of  "  Hiawa- 
tha." It  seems  almost  incredible  that  where 
are  now  the  largest  flour  mills  in  the  world, 
turning  out  daily  about  40,000  barrels, 
there  was,  scarcely  fifty  years  ago,  only 


88  FRENCH  CANADA. 

the  cedar  strewn  wigwam  and  smoke  of 
the  camp  fire,  the  tread  of  moccasined  feet 
and  the  dip  of  the  paddles  by  the  bark 
canoe. 

Near  by  Place  d'Armes  Square  may  be 
seen  a  grey  stone  house  on  which 
is  written  "  Here  lived  Sieur  Du- 
Lutn."  He  was  a  leading  spirit  among 
the  young  men  of  the  town,  who 
gathered  around  his  fireside  to  listen 
to  his  thrilling  tales  of  adventure,  and 
of  his  early  life  when  he  was  a  gendarme 
in  the  King's  Guard.  Coming  to  Canada 
in  the  year  1668,  he  explored  among  the 
Sioux  tribes  of  the  Western  plains.  He 
was  one  of  the  first  Frenchmen  to  approach 
the  sources  of  the  Mississippi.  The  city  of 
Duluth  in  Minnesota  received  its  name  from 
him.  A  tablet  on  a  modern  building  in  the 
same  locality  informs  the  passer-by  that 
Cadillac,  who  founded  the  City  of  Detroit 
about  the  same  time  as  the  Chateau  de 
Ramezay  was  built,  spent  the  last  years  of 
his  wandering  life  on  this  spot. 

The  town  of  Varennes,  down  the  river? 
is  called  from  the  owner  of  a  Seigniory  in 


THE  MASSACRE  OF  LACHINE.      89 

the  forest,  le  Chevalier  Gauthier  de  la 
Verandrye,  a  soldier  and  a  trader,  who  was 
the  first  to  explore  the  great  Canadian 
North-West,  and  to  discover  the  "  Rock- 
ies/" He  was  an  undaunted  and  fearless 
traveler,  establishing  post  after  post,  as  far 
as  the  wild  banks  of  the  Saskatchewan  and 
even  further  north,  which,  in  giving  to 
France,  he  ultimately  gave  to  Canada. 

"  Honour  to  those  who  fought  the  trees, 
And  won  the  land  for  us." 

The  traditions  connected  with  the  Cha- 
teau de  Ramezay  are  scarcely  more  inter- 
esting than  those  surrounding  many  spots 
in  the  vicinity.  Incorporated  in  this  pro- 
saic, business  part  of  the 'city  are  many  an 
old  gable  or  window,  which  were  once  part 
of  some  mediaeval  chapel  or  home  of  these 
early  times.  On  the  other  side  of  Notre 
Dame  street,  where  now  stands  the  classic 
and  beautiful  pile  called  the  City  Hall,  were 
to  be  seen  in  those  days  the  church  and 
"  Habitation"  as  it  was  called,  of  the  Jesuit 
Fathers,  within  whose  walls  lived  many 
learned  sons  of  Loyola,  Charlevoix  among 
others.  They  were  burnt  down  in  1803,, 


90 


FRENCH  CANADA. 


at  the  same  time  as  the  Chateau  de  Vau- 
dreuil  was  destroyed,  by  one  of  the  disas- 
trous fires  which  have  so  frequently  swept 
the  cities  of  Montreal  and  Quebec,  and  in 
which  many  quaint  historical  structures  dis- 
appeared. About  a  mile  to  the  west  is  still 
standing  the  family  residence  of  Daniel 
Hyacinthe,  Marie  Lienard  de  Beaujeu,  the 
hero  of  the  Monongahela,  at  which  battle 
George  Washington  was  an  officer. 

It  was  a  lamentable  event,  the  indiscrim- 
inate slaughter  of  three  thousand  men 
through  the  stupidity  and  incredible  ob- 


ff 


THE  MASSACRE  OF  LACHINE.      91 

stancy  of  General  Braddock,  who,  like  Dies- 
kau  at  a  subsequent  time,  despising-  the 
counsel  of  those  familiar  with  Indian  me- 
thods of  warfare,  determinedly  followed  his 
own  plans 

Washington  in  this  engagement  held  the 
rank  of  Adjutant-General  of  Virginia.  "  His 
business  was  to  inform  the  French  that  they 
were  building  forts  on  English  soil,  and  that 
they  would  do  well  to  depart  peaceably." 

Beaujeu  was  sent  at  the  head  of  a  force 
composed  of  French  soldiers  and  Indian 
allies  to  answer  the  Briton  with  the  power- 
ful argument  of  force  of  arms. 

"  As  Braddock  reached  the  ford  over  the 
river  which  was  to  put  him  on  the  same  side 
as  the  fort,  Colonel  Thomas  Gage  crossed 
in  advance,  without  opposition.  Beaujeu 
had  intended  to  contest  the  passage,  but  his 
Indians  being  refractory,  his  march  was  de- 
layed. Gage  with  the  advance  was  push- 
ing on  when  his  engineer  saw  a  man,  appa- 
rently an  officer,  wave  his  cap  to  his  fol- 
lowers, who  were  unseen  in  the  woods. 
From  every  vantage  ground  of  knoll  and 
bole,  and  on  three  sides  of  the  column,  the 


92  FRENCH  CANADA. 

concealed  muskets  were  levelled  upon  the 
English,  who  returned  the  fire.  As  Beau- 
jeu  fell,  Dumas,  who  succeeded  him, 
thought  that  the  steady  front  of  the  red- 
skins was  going  to  carry  the  day,  until  he 
saw  his  Canadians  fly,  followed  by  the  In- 
dians, after  Gage  had  wheeled  his  cannon 
on  the  woods.  A  little  time,  however, 
changed  all  this.  The  Indians  rallied  and 
poured  their  bullets  into  the  massed  and 
very  soon  confused  British  troops.  Brad- 
dock,  when  he  spurred  forward,  found 
everybody  demoralized  except  the  Virgin- 
ians, who  were  firing  from  the  tree  trunks, 
as  the  enemy  did.  The  British  General 
was  shocked  at  such  an  unmilitary  habit, 
and  ordered  them  back  into  line.  No  one 
under  such  orders  could  find  cover,  and 
every  puff  from  a  concealed  Indian  was 
followed  by  a  soldier's  fall.  No  exertion 
of  Braddock,  nor  of  Washington,  nor  of 
any  one  prevailed.  The  General  had  four 
horses  shot  under  him  and  Washington 
had  two.  Still  the  hillsides  and  the  depths 
of  the  wood  were  spotted  by  puffs  of 
smoke,  and  the  slaughter-pen  was  in  a 


THE  MASSACRE  OF  LACHINE.      93 

turmoil — scarce  one  Englishman  in  three 
escaped  bullets.  The  commander  then 
gave  the  sign  to  retreat,  and  was  endea- 
vouring to  restore  order  when  a  ball  struck 
him  from  his  horse.  The  British  Army 
had  become  bewildered  fugitives,  and  a 
guard  could  hardly  be  kept  for  the  wound- 
ed General,  as  he  was  borne  along  on  a 
horse  as  a  litter. 

The  sinking  Braddock  at  last  died  and 
was  buried  in  the  road,  that  the  tramp  of 
the  surging  mass  of  men  might  obliterate 
his  grave.  His  remains  are  said  to  have 
been  discovered  in  1823  by  some  work- 
men engaged  in  constructing  the  National 
road,  at  a  spot  pointed  out  by  an  old  man 
who  had  been  in  the  ranks  in  1755.  He 
claimed  to  have  seen  Braddock  buried,  and 
to  have  fired  the  bullet  that  killed  him. 
It  was  impossible  to  identify  the  remains 
almost  seventy  years  after  their  interment, 
but  with  them  were  found  bits  of  military 
trappings,  so  his  tale  may  have  been  cor- 
rect. In  the  year  1841,  near  to  the  spot, 
was  discovered  a  large  quantity  of  shot 
and  shell  left  by  the  retreating  army. 

6 


94  FRENCH  CANADA. 

Adjoining  the  grounds  of  the  Chateau 
de  Ramezay  was  the  mansion  of  General 
Ralph  Burton,  who  fought  close  to  Wolfe 
in  the  siege  of  Quebec,  to  whom  his  dying 
words  were  spoken,  and  who  carried  out 
his  last  command,  which  decided  the  day. 
As  Wolfe  lay  half  unconscious,  the  riot  of 
the  battle  growing  dull  on  his  failing 
senses,  they  were  roused  by  the  cry, 
"  They  run  !  '  He  opened  his  glazed 
eyes  and  asked,  "Who  run?"  and  the 
reply  was,  "The  French  !  "  With  a  su- 
preme effort  he  turned  to  Burton,  and 
ordered  him,  saying,  "Command  Webb 
to  march  down  to  the  St.  Charles  and  cut 
off  the  retreat  at  the  bridge  "  ;  and  then 
amid  the  crash  and  carnage  of  war,  he 
murmured,  "  Now  I  thank  God,  and  die 
contented,"  and  instantly  expired. 


THE  CHATEAU  DE  VAUDREUIL. 

S  H  O  RT  distance  to  the  south-west  is 
the  spot  on  which  stood  the  Chateau 
and  famous  gardens  of  the  Marquis  de 
Vaudreuil,  the  last  French  Governor  of 
Canada.  Imagination  can  forget  the  miles 
of  docks  and  warehouses,  the  electricity 
and  commerce  with  which  we  are  entering 
the  twentieth  century,  and  fancy  it  sees 
again  the  old  vice-regal  palace,  a  minia- 
ture in  Canadian  forests  of  the  gay  court 
at  the  Tuilleries,  with  its  bewitchment  of 
lace,  silk  and  velvet,  powdered  wigs  and 
the  exaggerated  politeness  and  exquisite 
bows  of  la  grande  dame  and  le  chevalier  of 
the  time. 

Let  us  step  back  to  the  winter  of  1758 
and  '59.  The  mountain  is  snow-capped 
and  the  St.  Lawrence  is  frozen  several  feet 
thick,  making  good  roads  for  the  shaggy 
Canadian  pony  and  cariole,  or  heavy  trai- 
neau  with  wooden  runners.  In  the  early 
winter's  evening,  lights  gleam  through 


96  FRENCH  CANADA. 

the  small  windows  of  the  earthen  citadel 
which  guards  the  Porte  St*.  Martin,  and 
the  clash  of  arms  or  halberds,  and  the 
pacing  of  the  sentries'  footsteps,  are  heard 
at  every  closed  gate  of  the  little  walled 
town.  Patches  of  warm  light  from  candle 
and  hearth  checker  the  snow  which  lies 
glistening  on  the  sidewalks,  for  there  are 
no  street  lamps  on  the  St.  Paul,  St.  Mary 
or  Notre  Dame  streets  of  these  old  days. 

Under  the  night  sky,  the  storehouses 
look  like  gloomy  prisons,  but  cheerful 
groups  talk  and  laugh,  as  the  beaux  and 
belles  bend  their  steps  along  the  narrow 
streets  to  the  Governor's  salon.  As  the 
guests  of  the  Marquis  de  Vaudreuil  assem- 
ble, the  brilliance  of  their  costumes  is 
heightened  in  effect  by  the  gorgeous  livery 
of  the  attendants  and  the  blue  and  white 
of  the  soldiers'  regimentals.  Groups  around 
the  spindle-legged  card  tables  exchange 
bon-mots  and  play,  while  others  dance  and 
promenade  on  the  polished  floors  until  the 
morning  light  breaks  over  the  river. 

The  gaiety  and  frivolity,  feasting  and 
gossip  are  in  strange  contrast  to  the  grey 


TEE   CHATEAU  DE   VAUDREUIL. 


97 


gown  of  the  Jesuit  priest  hurrying  from 
the  monastery  opposite,  to  shrive  some 
sinner,  or  to  administer  "  Extreme 
Unction  "  to  some  dying  saint.  Within 
the  convent  walls  pious  sisters,  followers 
of  Mademoiselle  Mance  and  Madame 
d'Youville,  tend  the  sick  and  unfortunate, 
whom  the  tide  of  life  has  cast  upon  this 
far  away  shore.  From  the  taverns  on 
the  corners  and  on  the  river  front  comes 


98  FRENCH  CANADA. 

the  sound  of  mirth  and  merriment,  as 
with  the  cup  of  good  Gascon  wine  are 
passed  around  tales  of  the  high  seas  or  of 
times  gone  by  in  the  old-world  towns  of 
Brittany. 

On  the  altars  of  the  chapels  lights  burn 
dimly  in  a  silence  unbroken,  save  by  the 
murmuring  of  prayers  and  telling  of  beads 
by  suppliants  driven  hither  by  sin,  sorrow 
or  homesickness. 

A  narrow  little  street,  named  St. 
Amable,  running  west  from  the  Gover- 
nor's mansion,  has  been  subjected  to  so 
little  change  since  those  days  of  long  ago 
that  the  passer-by  on  its  two  feet  of  side- 
walk sees  it  just  as  it  was  when  its  vault- 
ed warehouses  held  the  cargoes  of 
the  weather-beaten  sailing  craft  that 
anchored  at  the  shore  below.  Where 
now  the  French  habitant  sits  chattering 
with  his  confreres  and  smoking  his  pipe 
filled  with  home-grown  tabac  were  once 
the  shady  walks  and  stiff  parterres  of  the 
ancient  garden.  Here,  under  the  summer 
moons,  were  doubtless  stolen  meetings  as 
sweet,  vows  as  insincere,  and  intrigues  as 


COPYRIGHT. 


RUE  ST.  AMABLE. 


THE   CHATEAU  DE   VAUDREUIL.  99 

foolish  as  those  in  the  exquisite  bowers  of 
Le  Petit  Trianon  at  Versailles.  On  its 
paths  have  fallen  the  martial  tread  of  "  de 
Levis,  de  Beaujeu,  and  many  a  brave  sol- 
dier and  dainty  courtier,  official  guests  at 
the  Governor's  Chateau."  Among  them 
was  one  who  eclipsed  all  others  in  sad 
interest,  the  courtly  young  commander, 
Louis  Joseph  Saint  Veran  de  Montcalm. 
Any  spot  associated  with  this  ill-fated 
general  is  of  immortal  memory.  After  his 
skillful  manoeuvering  at  the  battle  of 
Carillon,  his  march  to  Montreal  was  a 
triumph.  At  the  close  of  this  engage- 
ment, as,  accompanied  by  de  Levis  and 
his  staff,  he  rode  along  the  ranks,  thank- 
ing his  troops,  who  idolized  him,  in  the 
name  of  their  king,  for  their  glorious  dis- 
play of  French  valour  in  a  field  where 
thirty-six  hundred  men  had  for  six  hours 
withstood  fifteen  thousand,  he  was  in 
every  particular  a  worthy  and  capable 
general.  He  spoke  of  his  own  share  in 
the  glory  of  the  day  with  simplicity  and 
modesty,  writing  the  next  day  to  Vau- 
dreuil  : — 


100  FRENCH  CANADA. 

"  The  only  credit  I  can  claim  as  accru- 
ing to  me  is  the  glory  of  commanding 
troops  so  valorous." 

On  one  occasion,  the  capture  of  Os- 
wego,  which  is  described  as  the  most  bril- 
liant military  exploit  then  known  in 
Canadian  history,  he  with  his  own  hand 
snatched  the  colours  from  a  British  officer 
and  sent  the  trophy  to  Quebec,  to  adorn 
the  walls  of  the  Cathedral  of  that  city  ;  as 
many  a  time  before  had  been  done  for  old- 
world  Minsters  by  knights  on  the  battle- 
fields of  Europe,  whose  empty  armour  now 
hangs  in  the  baronial  halls  of  England. 

Montcalm  had  been  summoned  to 
Montreal  to  confer  with  the  Governor  on 
the  further  conduct  of  the  war,  and,  as  he 
marched  forth  to  take  command  of  the 
Citadel  of  Quebec,  all  hearts  centred  on 
him,  saying,  "  Save  for  France  her 
fair  dominion  in  the  West  ;  "  but  the 
gallant  soldier,  in  his  endeavour  to  do 
so,  met  his  tragic  and  untimely  end. 

Entrenched  behind  the  ramparts  of 
Quebec,  he  prepared  for  the  great 
struggle  which  was  to  decide  the  fortunes 


THE   CHATEAU  DE   VAUDREUIL. 


101 


of  the  then  two  foremost  powers  of 
Europe.  He  and  de  Levis,  although  a 
considerable  distance  from  each  other, 
had  seventeen  thousand  men  under  their 
command,  with  a  splendid  line  of  fortifi- 
cations running  from  Montmorenci  to  the 
St.  Charles,  supplementing  the  granite 
defences  of  the  Citadel.  Montcalm  being 
in  doubt  for  some  time  at  what  point  to 
look  for  attack  from  the  enemy,  sent  or- 
ders along  the  whole  line  for  his  troops  to 


102 


FRENCH  CANADA. 


be  in  perfect  readiness  everywhere.  He 
was  several  years  older  than  Wolfe,  and 
was  an  old  campaigner,  having  served  his 
king  with  honour  and  distinction  in  Ger- 
many, Italy  and  Bohemia. 


THE    BATTLE   OF   THE  PLAINS, 

IT  was  the  evening  of  the  I2th  of  Sept., 
1759.     The  French  troops  were  on  the 
alert, — the  British    ready.     The    evening 
was  calm  and  fine  and  the  occasion  full  of 
solemnity  as  Wolfe    embarked    in  a  boat 
to  visit  some  of  his  posts.     As  the  oars 
dipped  softly  in  the  stream,  and  the  quiet 
dusk  of  the  autumn  twilight  hid  the  grim 
signs  of  war  and  brought   out  the  peace- 
ful   beauty  of  the  scene,    he  thought   of 
the  morrow — that  where 

"  Now  fades  the  glimmering  landscape  on  the  sight, 
And  all  the  air  a  solemn  stillness  holds," 

would  be  rent  by  the  roar  of  cannon,  the 
flash  of  bloody  steel  and  the  cries  of  the 
wounded  and  dying. 

Feeling  perhaps  a  shrinking  from  the 
great  crisis  which  the  dawn  would  bring, 
he  repeated  to  the  officers  and  midship- 
men within  hearing  a  number  of  the 
verses  from  the  most  finished  poem  in  the 
English  language,  Grey's  "  Elegy  in  a 


104  FRENCH  CANADA. 

Country  Churchyard,"  and  which  had 
appeared  a  short  time  before.  Probably 
the  lines  on  which  he  lingered  longest 
were  :— 

"  The  boast  of  heraldry,  the  pomp  of  power, 

And  all  that  beauty,  all  that  wealth  e'er  gave, 
Await  alike  the  inevitable  hour ; 

The  paths  of  glory  lead  but  to  the  grave." 

The  last  line  was,  alas  !  prophetic  in 
his  own  case,  and  he  may  have  had 
some  premonition  of  it,  for  turning  to  his 
listeners,  who  were  to  share  with  him 
victory  or  defeat,  he  said  with  a  wistful 
pathos  in  his  young  voice,  "  I  would 
prefer  being  the  author  of  that  poem  to 
the  glory  of  beating  the  French  to- 


morrow." 


He  did  not  dream  that  for  what  that 
morrow  would  bring,  his  name,  with 
that  of  the  poet  he  loved,  would  be 
carven  among  those  of  England's  great 
men  in  Westminster  Abbey — 
"  Where  thro'  the  long-drawn  aisle  and  fretted  vault 
The  pealing  anthem  swells  the  note  of  praise." 

Landing  in  a  ravine  (Wolfe's  Cove), 
which  he  had  located  by  the  use  of  a 
glass — with  the  strategic  venture  at 


THE  BATTLE  OF  THE  PLAINS.     105 

which  all  the  world  has  since  wondered 
— in  the  dark  hours  of  the  same  night,  he, 
at  the  head  of  the  famous  Eraser  High- 
landers, placed  his  force  on  the  Plains  of 
Abraham,  each  man  knowing  it  was  vic- 
tory or  death,  as  there  was  no  possibility 
of  retreat. 

The  intelligence  of  the  landing  of  the 
British  troops  was  first  brought  to  the 
Governor-General,  the  Marquis  de  Vau- 
dreuil,  and  he  had  the  task  of  communi- 
cating the  unwelcome  news  to  Mont- 
calm,  who  had  hurried  from  his  quar- 
ters on  the  ramparts  to  ascertain  what 
was  the  meaning  of  the  firing  above  the 
town. 

On  learning  the  situation,  he  bitterly 
exclaimed  :— 

"  They  have  at  least  got  to  the  weak 
side  of  this  miserable  garrison,  and, 
therefore,  we  must  endeavour  to  crush 
them  by  our  numbers  before  12  o'clock." 

Montcalm,  with  more  courage  than 
discretion,  without  waiting  for  de  Levis, 
who  was  twenty-eight  miles  away, — the 
victim  of  an  inexorable  destiny,  unsup- 


106 


FRENCH  CANADA. 


ported  led  forth  his  men,  and  saw,  not 
without  surprise,  the  whole  British  Army 
ranged  in  battle  array.  Without  giving 
his  men  time  to  recover  breath  after  the 
fatigue  of  their  laborious  and  hurried 
march,  he  went  into  action,  trusting  to 
the  well-tested  courage  of  his  troops. 

Wolfe  led  the  charge  at  the  head  of 
the  Louisburg  Grenadiers,  and  when  the 
Highlanders,  throwing  away  their  mus- 
kets, rushed  on  with  their  broad  swords 


THE  BATTLE   OF  THE  PLAINS.  107 

like  a  tempest  of  steel,  the  hapless  blue 
coats,  though  lacking  in  neither  prowess 
nor  patriotism,  fled  in  all  directions.  The 
two  young  leaders  fell  almost  simul- 
taneously. 

When  Wolfe  received  his  death  wound, 
he  was  in  a  conspicuous  spot  near  the 
Redoubt,  and  was  thence  borne  to  the 
rear.  He  had  calmly  prepared  for  this 
contingency.  He  had  made  his  will,  of 
which  he  appointed  Sir  Guy  Carleton  the 
executor,  and  for  whom  he  had  early 
formed  a  close  friendship,  generally 
speaking  of  him  as  "  My  friend  Carle- 
ton,"  and  to  whom  he  bequeathed  his 
books  and  papers.  His  plate  he  willed 
to  Saunders,  and  to  another  friend  he 
entrusted  the  miniature  of  his  betrothed 
with  the  charge  of  returning  it  to  her 
in  the  event  of  his  fall.  That  was  pro- 
bably the  most  trying  moment  of  those 
hours  so  fraught  with  tragedy — a  mo- 
ment like  those  on  the  eve  of  Waterloo, 
when  there  were 
"  Partings  that  crush  the  life  from  out  young  hearts.'1 

It  was  not  in  his  martial  cloak   nor  in 


108  FRENCH  CANADA. 

his  country's  flag  that  he  was  carried  dead 
off  the  field,  but  in  the  tartan  "plaidie  " 
of  an  old  Highland  man,  named  Mc- 
Leod,  which  was  tenderly  wrapped  around 
him,  wet  with  tears  from  eyes  to  which 
tears  had  long  been  strangers. 

As  he  fell,  his  principal  care  was  for  the 
effect  it  would  have  upon  his  troops,  who, 
down  to  the  humblest  in  his  command, 
had  caught  his  spirit,  and  who  felt  that 
"  they  must  fulfil  the  trust  reposed  in 
them,  or  die  in  the  ranks." 

Leaning  against  the  shoulder  of  the 
officer  who  caught  him  when  falling,  he  im- 
plored him  to  support  him,  saying,  "  Do 
not  let  my  brave  soldiers  see  me  drop,  the 
day  is  ours,  keep  it  !  "  A  death  attended 
with  circumstances  more  pathetic  or  inci- 
dents more  picturesque  the  annals  of  war 
do  not  record. 

"  The  capture  of  Quebec  was  an  achieve- 
ment of  so  formidable  a  character,  so  dis- 
tinguished by  chivalrous  enterprise,  and  so 
fraught  with  singular  adventure,  that  the 
interest  attending  it  still  remains  undimmed 
and  its  glorious  recollections  unfaded." 


THE  BATTLE  OF  THE  PLAINS.  109 

The  virtues  and  heroism  of  the  youthful 
leader  of   the  campaign  and  the  bravery  of 
his  troops,    whose  toast  was  "  The  British 
flag   on  every  fort,    post  and  garrison    in 
America/'  are  themes  of  just  pride  to  the 
lover  of  his  country.       t(  Young   in  years 
but  mature  in  experience,  Wolfe  possessed 
all  the  liberal   virtues    in    addition    to   an 
enthusiastic  knowledge  of  the  military  art 
with  a  sublimity  of  genius,  always  the  dis- 
tinguishing mark  of  minds  above  the  ordin- 
ary level    of   mankind.      His    celebrated 
letter  to  Mr.  Pitt    is  still    considered  un- 
surpassed in  military  composition." 

As  Montcalm  was  carried  off  the  field 
he  enquired  if  his  wound  was  mortal  ;  on 
being  answered  in  the  affirmative,  with  a 
mental  anguish  keener  than  the  intense 
physical  pain  he  was  suffering,  he  said, 
*'  So  much  the  better,  I  shall  not  live  to  see 
the  surrender  of  Quebec."  Few  scenes  are 
more  full  of  sadness  than  his  march  from  his 
last  battle-field,  as  supported  by  two 
grenadiers,  and  passing  through  the  St. 
Louis  Gate  on  his  black  charger,  he 
courteously  greeted  the  weeping  women 
7 


110  FRENCH  CAXA.DA. 

who  lined  his  path,  telling  them  not  to 
weep  for  him  ;  but  it  could  not  be  but  a 
day  of  tears  for  the  daughters  of  Quebec 
as  groans  of  mortal  agony  came  to 
their  ears  through  the  smoke  and  dust  of 
retreat. 

A  few  hours  afterward,  on  being  visit- 
ed by  M.  de  Ramezay,  who  commanded 
the  garrison,  with  the  title  of  Lieutenant 
du  Roy,  and  another  officer,  Montcalm 
addressed  them  saying,  "  Gentlemen,  I 
commend  to  your  keeping  the  honour  of 
France, — for  myself,  I  shall  pass  the  night 
with  God,  and  prepare  myself  for  death." 

On  M.  de  Ramezay's  pressing  to  receive 
commands  respecting  the  defence  of  Que- 
bec, he  exclaimed  with  emotion : — "  I  will 
neither  give  orders  nor  interfere  further.  I 
have  business  that  must  be  attended  to  of 
greater  moment  than  your  ruined  garrison 
and  this  wretched  country.  My  time  is  very 
short,  so  pray  leave  me  ;  I  wish  you  all 
comfort,  and  to  be  happily  extricated  from 
your  present  difficulties." 

Before  expiring,  he  paid  a  noble  tribute 
to  his  late  foes,  when  he  said  : — 


THE  BATTLE  OF  THE  PLAINS.  Ill 

"Since  it  was  my  misfortune  to  be  dis- 
comfited and  mortally  wounded,  it  is  a 
great  consolation  to  me  to  be  vanquished 
by  so  brave  and  generous  an  enemy.  If 
I  could  survive  this  wound,  I  would  en- 
gage to  beat  three  times  the  number  of 
such  forces  as  I  commanded  this  morning 
with  a  third  of  such  troops  as  were  opposed 
to  me." 

Almost  his  last  conscious  act  was  to 
write  a  letter  praying  the  English  victors 
to  show  clemency  to  the  French  prisoners. 

It  is  said  that  a  fissure  ploughed  by  a 
cannon  ball  within  the  walls  of  the  Ursu- 
line  Convent  furnished  him  a  fitting  sol- 
dier's grave. 

One  of  the  sisterhood,  an  eye-witness  of 
the  event,  described  the  burial  in  the  fol- 
lowing touching  and  graphic  words  : — 

"  At  length  it  was  September,  with  its 
lustrous  skies  and  pleasant  harvest  scenes. 
The  city  was  destroyed,  but  it  was  not 
taken.  Would  not  the  early  autumn,  so 
quickly  followed  by  winter,  force  the 
enemy  to  withdraw  their  fleet  ?  For  sev- 
eral days  the  troops  which  had  been  so  long 


112  FRENCH  CANADA. 

idle  were  moving  in  various  directions 
above  and  below  Quebec,  but  they  were 
watched  and  every  point  guarded,  but  no 
one  dreamed  of  the  daring  project  the  in- 
trepid Wolfe  was  meditating.  The  silence 
of  the  night  told  no  tale  of  the  stealthy 
march  of  five  thousand  soldiers.  The 
echoes  of  the  high  cliff  only  brought  to  the 
listening  boatmen  the  necessary  password. 
No  rock  of  the  shelving  precipice  gave 
way  under  the  cat-like  tread  of  the  High- 
landers accustomed  to  the  crags  of  their 
native  hills,  but  the  morning  light  glittered 
on  serried  rows  of  British  bayonets,  and 
in  an  hour  the  battle  of  the  Plains  changed 
the  destinies  of  New  France.  The  remnant 
of  the  French  army,  after  turning  many 
times  on  their  pursuers,  completely  disap- 
peared. Their  tents  were  still  standing  on 
the  Plains  of  Beauport,  but  their  batteries 
were  silent  and  trenches  empty — their 
guns  still  pointed,  but  were  mute. 

"  At  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening  a  funeral 
cortege  issuing  from  the  castle,  wound  its 
way  through  the  dark  and  obstructed 
streets  to  the  little  church  of  the  Ursulines. 


THE  BATTLE  OF  THE  PLAINS.  113 

The  measured  foot  steps  of  the  military  es- 
cort kept  time  with  the  heavy  tread  of  the 
bearers,  as  the  officers  of  the  garrison 
followed  the  lifeless  remains  of  their  illus- 
trious commander-in-chief  to  their  last  rest- 
ing place.  No  martial  pomp  was  displayed 
around  that  humble  bier  and  rough  wooden 
box,  which  were  all  the  ruined  city  could 
afford  the  body  of  her  defender  ;  but  no 
burial  rite  could  be  more  solemn  than  that 
hurried  evening  service  performed  by 
torchlight  under  the  war-scarred  roof  of 
the  Convent,  as  with  tears  and  sighs  were 
chanted  the  words  '  Libera  me  Dom- 
ine.'" 

Some  years  ago  an  Englishman,  Lord 
Aylmer,  caused  to  be  placed  within  the 
convent  enclosure  a  tablet  with  the  words 
carved  in  marble  : — 

Honneur 

a 

Montcalm. 
Le  Destin  en  lui  derobant 

La  Victoire, 

L'a  recompense  par 

Une  Mort  Glorieuse. 


114  FRENCH  CANADA. 

Or,  Honor  to  Montcalm.  Fate  denied  him 
victory,  but  rewarded  him  with  a  glorious 
death.  Byroa  expresses  a  similar  senti- 
ment when  he  said  : — 

"  They  never  fail  who  die  in  a  good  cause." 

On  the  spot  where  Wolfe  fell  has  been 
raised  a  simple  shaft  on  which  is  written : — 

"  Here  Wolfe  died  victorious, 

Sept,  1 3th,  1759, 
In  the  thirty-fourth  year  of  his  age." 

The  stone  which  formed  his  death  couch 
is  preserved  in  its  original  position,  but 
sunk  beneath  the  ground  to  protect  it  from 
the  ravages  of  the  relic  hunter.  The 
column  is  supported  on  a  pedestal  of  rocks 
formed  of  boulders  from  the  scene  of  the 
battle,  conspicuous  among  which  may  be 
seen  the  actual  rock  upon  which  Wolfe 
was  supported  when  he  breathed  his  last. 
The  stones  of  the  monument  are  strongly 
cemented  together,  embedded  in  the  solid 
foundation  of  rock,  and  will  be  as  enduring 
as  the  fame  of  him  whose  name  it  bears. 

The  well  near  by,  from  which  the  water 


THE  BATTLE  OF  THE  PLAINS.  115 

was  brought  to  allay  his  thirst,  was  filled 
up  and  obliterated  some  years  ago,  much 
to  the  regret  of  those  who  venerated  the 
immortal  incident  connected  with  it,  and 
which  placed  it  among  the  historic  shrines 
of  the  world. 


Associated  with  Wolfe,  and  a  sharer  in 
the  glory  of  the  capture  of  Quebec,  was 
Charles  Saunders,  commander  of  the 
squadron.  By  bombarding  the  town,  he 
kept  the  enemy  in  a  state  of  constant  and 


116  FRENCH  CANADA. 

anxious  alarm,  at  the  same  time  showing 
wonderful  skill  in  cleverly  protecting  his 
fleet  from  disaster ;  even  when  threatened 
by  fire-ships  sent  to  destroy  it,  which  were 
grappled  by  the  British  sailors  and  run 
aground. 

Among  those  who  rendered  signal  ser- 
vice to  Admiral  Saunders  when  he  neared 
Quebec  was  the  famous  navigator,  Cap- 
tain Cook.  He  was  the  pilot  who  con- 
ducted the  boats  to  the  attack  at  Mont- 
morency  on  July  3ist,  1759?  and  managed 
the  disembarkment  at  the  Heights  of 
Abraham. 

The  great  mariner,  while  engaged  in  his 
celebrated  voyages  of  discovery,  was  mur- 
dered by  South  Sea  Islanders  at  Owhyhee 
on  the  14th  of  Feby.,  1779.  He  had  been 
sent  by  the  British  Government  to  find  if 
the  discovery  of  the  North- West  passage, 
which  seemed  impossible  by  the  Atlantic, 
were  feasible  by  the  Pacific  Ocean  ;  for 
which  purpose  he  had  to  round  the  south- 
ern part  of  the  entire  American  Continent. 
He  was  on  the  point  of  abandoning  the 
project  and  returning  home  when  he  met 


THE  BATTLE  OF  THE  PLAIN 8.  Hf 

his  terrible  death,  "  leaving  a  name  unsur- 
passed for  gallantry  by  any  sea-faring  man 
of  his  time." 

In  the  month  of  October  Saunders'  fleet 
dropped  silently  down  the  river.  On  one 
of  the  ships  was  the  embalmed  body  of 
James  Wolfe,  returning  to  the  land  he  had 
served  so  well,  but  where  alas  !  he  would 
never  hear  the  acclamations  with  which  his 
fellow  countrymen,  from  the  palace  to  the 
cabin,  would  lay  the  laurel  wreath  upon 
his  tomb, — the  paths  of  glory  had  truly  led 
but  to  the  grave  ! 

Saunders  on  his  return  was  appointed 
Lieutenant-General  of  Marine,  and  on 
taking  his  seat  as  a  member  of  the  House 
of  Commons  received  the  thanks  of  the 
Speaker.  He  became  Knight  Commander 
of  the  Bath,  and  on  his  death  was  buried 
in  Westminster  Abbey  near  to  the  Monu- 
ment of  Wolfe. 

Of  the  regiments  to  whom  England 
owes  the  Conquest  of  Canada,  the  Scotch 
claim  the  greatest  share  of  glory.  "  Hardy 
sons  of  mountain  and  heather,  they  were 
in  fact  the  flower  of  the  army,  the  boldest 


118  FRENCH  CANADA. 

in  attack,  the  fiercest  at  close  quarters,  the 
last  to  retreat  at  command,  and  always  the 
bravest  of  the  brave  in  the  forefront  of 
England's  battles." 

The  kilted  "  laddies  "  from  beyond  the 
Grampians,  in  their  *£  braw  "  plumed  bon- 
nets, with  their  war-pipes  lilting  above  the 
loudest  din  of  war,  have  met  some  of 
the  fiercest  onslaughts  singing  and  step- 
ping to  the  blood-stirring  strains  of  "  Scots 
wha  ha'e  wi'  Wallace  bled." 

An  eye-witness  of  their  march  out  of 
Brussels  on  that  beautiful  June  morning  in 
1815,  the  dawn  of  Waterloo,  says  : 

"  One  could  not  but  admire  their  fine 
appearance,  their  steady  military  de- 
meanour, with  their  pipes  playing  before 
them,  and  the  beams  of  the  rising  sun 
shining  on  their  glittering  arms."  Many 
of  the  young  officers  were  in  the  silk 
stockings  and  dancing  pumps  which  they 
wore  the  night  before  to  the  Duchess  of 
Richmond's  ball,  when  they  laughed ; — 

"  On  with  the  dance,  let  joy  be  unconfined, 
No  sleep  till  morn  when  youth  and  beauty  meet, 
To  chase  the  glowing  hours  with  flying  feet." 


THE  BATTLE  OF  THE  PLAIN8.  119 

With  swords  waving,  the  pibroch 
screaming  and  the  te  stirring  memories  of  a 
thousand  years,"  they  rushed  into  the 
stupendous  conflict  leading  the  "Forty- 
two,"  into  the  field,  which  the  setting  of 
the  same  sun  saw  drenched  through  with 
blood,  but  marked  by  deeds  which  cov- 
ered with  glory  many  a  thatched  ingle-nook 
on  highland  hills  and  in  lowland  valleys. 

After  the  Conquest  of  Canada,  the 
Eraser  Highlanders  with  the  remains  of 
the  42nd  were  offered  grants  of  land  if 
they  chose  to  remain  as  settlers,  a  privilege 
which  many  of  them  accepted.  Sixteen 
years  afterward,  when  a  foreign  invasion 
threatened  Canada,  they  loyally  left  the 
plough  in  the  furrow  and  again  sprang 
to  arms,  to  protect  their  altars  and  fire- 
sides. 

Among  the  blue  Laurentian  hills  of  the 
lower  St.  Lawrence,  around  their  simple 
hearths,  their  descendants  live  the  placid 
life  of  the  Canadian  habitant.  They  bear 
the  old  historic  names  of  their  Gaelic  fore- 
fathers,— Fraser,  Cameron,  Blackburn, 
MacDonald,  etc. — but  in  nothing  else  could 


120  FRENCH  CANADA. 

it  be  thought  that  in  their  veins  runs  the 
blood  of  those  who  fought  at  Colloden 
and  Bannockburn.  They  are  as  purely 
French  in  their  religion,  language  and  cus- 
toms, as  those  whose  sires  sailed  from 
Breton  and  Norman  ports. 

The  Commandant  of  Quebec  at  the 
time  of  its  fall  was  the  son  of  Claude  de 
Ramezay,  the  builder  of  the  Chateau  of 
that  name.  After  the  disastrous  battle, 
Vaudreuil,  Governor  of  Montreal,  sent  him 
urgent  charges  to  do  his  utmost  to  hold 
out  until  reinforcements,  which  were  on  a 
forced  march  from  Montreal  and  elsewhere, 
should  arrive  to  his  succour ;  but,  the  be- 
sieged being  in  the  greatest  extreme  of 
fright  and  starvation,  his  force  refused  to 
fight.  His  conduct  has  been  much  criti- 
cized, but  one  annalist  asserts  that  he  was 
"  not  the  man  to  shrink  from  danger  or 
death  had  there  been  anything  but  fool- 
hardiness  in  the  risk,  as  he  belonged  to 
the  good  old  fighting  stock  of  North 
Britain," — the  race  which  produced  a  Wal- 
lace and  a  Bruce.  He,  however,  signed 
the  articles  of  capitulation,  as  recommended 


THE  BATTLE  OF  THE  PLAINS.  121 

by  the  Council  of  War  summoned,  and 
the  British  marched  in  through  the  iron- 
spiked  gates, — when,  had  he  held  out  only 
twenty-four  hours  longer,  Canada  might 
have  been  saved  for  France,  as  the  British 
could  not  for  any  length  of  time  have 
maintained  their  position  on  the  Plains 
of  Abraham.  Returning  to  France,  where 
he  was  related  to  several  families  of  the 
Noblesse,  who  held  that  "  war  was  the 
only  worthy  calling,  and  prized  honour 
more  than  life,"  he  received  so  cool  a 
reception  at  Court  that  his  proud  spirit, 
being  unable  to  brook  the  humiliation,  he 
applied  for  a  passport  allowing  him  to  return 
to  Canada,  bat  subsequently  he  abandoned 
the  idea  of  returning  to  his  native  land. 
Had  he  carried  out  his  intention,  he  might 
have  seen  French,  English  and  American 
flags  successively  wave  over  the  red  roof 
of  the  Chateau  of  his  boyhood. 

To  complete  the  conquest,  Montreal 
was  attacked  at  three  different  points  by 
Generals  Amherst,  Murray  and  Haldi- 
mand.  Arriving  within  a  few  hours  of 
each  other,  they  camped  outside  of  the 


122  FRENCH  CANADA. 

old  walls  of  the  town.  Vaudreuil  and  de 
Levis  tried  to  oppose  them,  but  with 
Quebec  lost,  and  the  only  defences  a  rude 
citadel  and  weak  walls  built  to  resist 
Indian  attack  and  useless  in  civilized  war- 
fare, they  were  compelled  to  surrender. 
A  small  stone  cottage,  until  quite  recently 
standing  in  a  private  garden  on  the  moun- 
tain side,  was  used  as  Amherst's  head- 
quarters, and  in  which  the  articles  of 
capitulation  were  signed  between  the 
victorious  and  vanquished  generals. 

Among  those  who  entered  the  town 
with  Amherst  was  Israel  Putnam,  a  man 
who  had  been  brought  into  Montreal  a 
year  before  a  prisoner  by  the  French. 
He  had  great  physical  strength  and  deci- 
sion of  character,  and  was  absolutely  in- 
capable of  fear.  On  the  breaking  out  of 
the  Revolutionary  War,  he  entered  with 
zeal  into  the  cause  of  the  colonists,  and 
lead  them  in  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill. 
True  to  his  convictions,  he  refused  the 
large  sums  of  money  offered  him  by  the 
British  for  his  services.  By  the  American 
troops  he  was  lovingly  called  "  Old  Put." 


THE  BATTLE  OF  THE  PLAINS.  123 

On  his  tombstone  was  inscribed  : — "  He 
dared  to  lead  where  any  dared  to  follow." 
As  the  British  entered  the  city  by  the 
old  Recollet  Monastery  gate,  the  French 
retired  to  la  Citadelle,  a  strong  wood  block 
house  at  the  other  end  of  the  town. 
General  Haldimand  was  the  First  English- 
man to  enter  within  the  walls,  remains  of 
which  are  still  frequently  dug  up  in  excavat- 
ing. The  oldest  Ensign  in  Amherst's  army 
received  the  French  colours,  and  it  is  said 
the  keys  of  the  city  were  given  over  by 
a  woman,  but  it  is  recorded  with  certainty 
that  the  fallen  foes  were  treated  with  the 
greatest  consideration  and  respect,  not  even 
the  Indian  allies  being  permitted  to  commit 
a  single  act  of  violence.  "  Amherst  com- 
manded the  principal  division,  including 
the  '  Black  Watch,'  or  gallant  42nd,  which 
has  been  renowned  in  military  story 
wherever  the  British  flag  has  been  borne 
to  victory  for  more  than  a  hundred  and 
forty  years."  At  Waterloo,  Corunna, 
Alma  and  Lucknow,  in  Afghan  defiles  and 
Egyptian  deserts,  they  were  always  in  the 
thickest  of  the  fight. 


124 


FRENCH  CANADA. 


It  is  said,  Pitt,  wanting  a  safe  and  sure 
officer  to  command  them,  chose  what  he 
called  a  stubborn  Colonel,  who  had  shown 
his  mettle  in  Germany,  and  made  him 
Major-General  Amherst. 


CANADA  UNDER  ENGLISH 
RULE. 

/TENERAL  James  Murray,  the  son  of 
V-/  Lord  Elibank,  was  appointed  the 
first  British  Governor  of  Canada.  Pre- 
vious to  the  fall  of  Montreal,  de  Levis, 
refusing  to  consider  the  cause  of  France 
lost  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  valiantly  re- 
solved on  an  attack  on  General  Murray 
at  Quebec.  The  news  of  his  advance 
was  conveyed  to  Murray  by  a  "  half- 
frozen  cannonier,  whom  the  British 
troops  carried  up  Mountain  Hill  in  a 
sailor's  hammock."-— April  26th,  1760. 
Hearing  of  this  unfortunate  circum- 
stance, which  gave  up  to  the  enemy  his 
intention  of  taking  him  unawares,  de 
Levis  hurriedly  led  his  men  under  the 
walls  of  the  city,  where  Murray,  promptly 
coming  out  to  meet  him,  the  battle 
of  "  Ste.  Foye  "  took  place,  when  the 
French  this  time  saw  their  efforts  crown- 
ed with  success,  the  British  having  to 
8 


126  FRENCH  CANADA. 

find  a  shelter  within  the  walls  of  the  old 
Citadel.  The  French  leader  was  too 
weak  to  operate  a  regular  siege,  so 
remained  camped  on  the  battle-field, 
awaiting  the  reinforcements  expected. 


One  bright  sunny  morning  it  was  her- 
alded on  all  sides  that  a  fleet  had  been 
signalled,  and  the  joy  of  the  French 
troops  knew  no  bounds  ;  but,  alas  !  for 
them  it  was  found  out  but  too  soon  that 


CANADA  UNDER  ENGLISH  RULE.         127 

the  ships  were  under  England's  flag. 
Instead  of  de  Levis  receiving  the  assist- 
ance he  required,  it  came  to  the  already 
victorious  Briton.  It  but  remained, 
therefore,  for  him  to  retire  in  haste  to 
Montreal,  where,  being  soon  followed  up 
by  the  enemy  and  surrounded  on  all  sides, 
he  had  to  submit  to  the  dictates  of  fate, 
as  already  stated. 

He  affixed  his  name  to  the  Articles  of 
Capitulation,  with,  it  is  said,  the  docu- 
ment placed  against  a  tree  at  the  head  of 
St.  Helen's  Island. 

De  Levis,  although  blamed  for  his 
unsoldierlike  act  in  the  destruction  of  his 
regimental  colours,  was,  nevertheless,  a 
fine  specimen  of  the  long  line  of  chival- 
rous nobles,  whose  names  and  deeds  em- 
blazon French  chronicles  of  field  and 
foray  since  the  days  when  Charlemagne 
wore  his  iron  crown.  Deeply  chagrined 
at  the  refusal  of  the  British  to  allow  the 
garrison  to  march  out  with  the  honours 
of  war,  although  high-spirited  to  a  fault, 
he  humbled  himself  to  pray  in  writing  for 
the  reversal  of  the  order.  It  may  have 


128  FRENCH  CANADA. 

been  in  the  salon  of  the  Chateau  that  the 
representatives  of  the  two  knights  stood 
face  to  face  as  suppliant  and  arbiter. 
Their  fathers  may  have  crossed  swords 
at  Crecy,  when  the  Plantagenet  Prince 
bore  off  the  feathered  crest  which  was 
to  be  the  insignia  of  all  future  first-born 
sons  of  English  kings,  or  they  may 
have  tilted  with  lance  and  pennon  on 
the  Field  of  the  Cloth  of  Gold  ;  but  here 
de  Levis,  with  his  petition  sternly  denied, 
was  forced  to  retire  in  anger,  filled  with 
humiliation  at  the  failure  of  his  inter- 
cession. 

It  may  be  imagined  with  what  con- 
flicting emotions  he  entered  the  following 
words  in  his  journal  :— 

"  The  British  sent  a  detachment  to 
Place  <£ Armes  with  artillery,  whither  our 
battalions  marched  one  after  another,  to 
lay  down  their  arms,  and  the  enemy  took 
possession  of  the  posts  and  watches  of 
the  city."  As  they  filed  past  the 
Chateau,  which  was  on  their  line  of 
march,  many  a  heavy  heart  beat  beneath 
the  blue  coats,  and  when  a  few  days 


CANADA  UNDER  ENGLISH  RULE.         129 

later  they  embarked  with  their  chief  for 
France,  even  valour  need  not  have  been 
ashamed  if  tears  dimmed  the  sight  of  the 
English  colours  flying  from  their  flag 
staff's,  and  the  fair  land  fading  from  their 
sight  forever. 

The  Chateau  de   Vaudreuil  was    then 
dismantled  of  its  treasures  of  fine  china 
and  specimens  of  the  arts  revived  in  what 
is  known  as  the  Renaissance,  when  every- 
thing   that  was    exquisite    in    painting, 
sculpture,  working  in  metals,  and  art  in 
all  its  forms  had  received  such  an  impetus 
from  the  Italian  artists  whom   Louis  the 
Fourteenth    gathered  around    his  court, 
as  well  as  from  the  influence  of  Madame 
de    Pompadour,   whose  taste,  unhappily, 
far  exceeded    her  morals.       It  was  pur- 
chased by  Chartier  de  Lotbiniere,   and  it 
is  pleasant  to  chronicle  that  a  few  years 
ago    his  direct  descendant,   M.   de  Lery 
Macdonald,  while    visiting    France,    had 
the  honour  of  meeting  la    Comtesse  de 
Clairemont-Tonnerre,     the     last      living 
representative  of  the  De  Vaudreuil  family, 
who    graciously    presented    to    him    the 


130  FRENCH  CANADA. 

"  Croix  St.  Louis"  which  had  been  be- 
stowed upon  the  first  Vaudreuil  who  held 
an  official  position  in  Canada,  which 
relic  is  now  to  be  seen  in  the  Chateau  de 
Ramezay. 

The  old  fortifications  of  Ville  Marie 
were  planned  by  a  de  Lery  ;  he,  and  the 
military  engineer  who  traced  out  his 
campaigns  with  Bonaparte,  and  whom 
he  called  the  "  Immortel  General"  were 
members  of  this  family,  in  the  possession 
of  which  are  priceless  old  tapestries, 
which  were  gifts  from  royalty  as  rewards 
of  diplomatic  or  personal  services. 

About  a  year  after  the  evacuation  of 
Quebec,  Murray  was  sitting  in  the  chilli- 
ness of  an  October  evening  by  the  chim- 
ney meditating.  As  he  gazed  at  the 
glowing  fire  of  maple  logs,  he  may  have 
fancied  that  he  saw  again  the  face  of  his 
dead  commander,  and  may  have  thought 
of  that  desperate  charge  outside  the 
gates — of  the  shouts  of  victory  and  cries 
of  defeat — where  then  the  only  sound  to 
be  heard  was  the  wind  rustling  the  with- 
ered grass  that  had  been  dyed  red  in  the 


CANADA  UNDER  ENGLISH  RULE.        131 

blood  of  so  many  gallant  young  hearts. 
The  soldier's  face  may  have  softened  as 
he  thought  of  the  old  hearthstone  among 
the  heather  hills,  where  tales  of  the 
Border  and  the  traditions  of  his  clan  had 
fired  his  young  soul  for  the  glory  of  con- 
quest. 

He  was  'suddenly  aroused  from  his 
dream  by  the  announcement  that  two 
warlike  frigates  were  sailing  below  the 
cliffs.  He  hurried  to  the  bastion,  which 
commanded  the  spot,  to  survey  what 
might  portend  fresh  struggles  and  more 
bloodshed.  But  soon  a  standard  was 
run  up  to  the  masthead,  unfolding  to  the 
breeze  the  flag  of  England.  Imme- 
diately from  the  ramparts,  where  so  re- 
cently had  proudly  floated  the  flag  of 
France,  an  answering  signal  was  shown, 
and,  as  the  guns  roared  out  a  salute  to 
the  British  colours,  it  was  also  a  farewell 
honour  to  the  old  Regime,  which  has 
passed  away  forever  from  Canadian 
shores. 

Of  Murray,  the  first  British  Governor 
of  Canada,  it  has  been  said  that,   in  the 


132  FRENCH  CANADA. 

long  roll  of  unblemished  good  service,  in 
the  record  of  his  honourable  fidelity  to 
his  trust  and  duty,  no  passage  of  his  life 
stands  out  in  brighter  colours  than  this 
period,  during  which  he  turned  a  deaf 
ear  to  intolerance  and  the  spirit  of  perse- 
cution, and  strove  to  show  the  new  sub- 
jects of  the  Crown  how  truly  beneficent, 
just  and  good,  with  all  its  errors,  the  rule 
of  Great  Britain  had  ever  proved  to  be. 

With  the  Treaty  of  Paris  in  1763  King 
George  III.  abolished  the  French  laws, 
substituting  for  them  the  English  Code 
in  the  newly  won  Dominion  ;  later  on, 
however,  by  the  "  Quebec  Act,"  they 
were  restored  to  the  Canadians. 

The  members  of  the  Noblesse,  whose 
ties  compelled  their  remaining  in  Canada, 
sent  to  London  to  offer  fealty  to  King 
George,  and  thus  further  their  personal 
interests. 

When  the  Chevalier  de  Lery  and 
his  wife,  the  beautiful  Louise  de  Brou- 
ages,  one  of  the  most  lovely  women  of 
her  day,  were  presented  at  the  Court 
of  St.  James,  the  young  Sovereign  was 


CANADA  UNDER  ENGLISH  RULE.         133 

so  struck  with  her  beauty  that    he  gal- 
lantly exclaimed  :— 

"  If  all  Canadian  ladies  resemble  her, 
we  have  indeed  made  a  conquest." 
A  French  writer  of  the  time  says  :— 
"  How  can  we  sufficiently  deplore  the 
loss  of  Canada,  with  all  its  present  value 
and  with  all  its  future  hope — a  possession 
of  which  all  the  difficulties  were  already 
overcome,  and  of  which  the  consequent 
advantages  were  secure  and  within  reach  ! 
That  loss  might  have  been  guarded 
against — yes,  that  land  consecrated  by 
the  blood  of  a  Montcalm,  a  Jumonville, 
and  so  many  brave  Frenchmen  who 
shared  their  dangers,  and  were  united 
with  them  in  fate — that  country  honoured 
with  the  name  of  New  France — that 
country  where  we  may  yet  trace  her  chil- 
dren enjoying  the  manners  and  customs 
of  their  forefathers — that  country  might 
yet  have  existed  under  its  rightful  princes, 
if  the  Cabinet  of  Versailles  had  known 
the  true  position  it  held — had  erected 
there  a  new  throne  and  had  placed  upon 
it  a  Prince  of  the  Royal  Family — it 


134  FRENCH  CANADA. 

would  have  ruled  to-day  over  that  vast 
region,  and  preserved  the  treasures 
vainly  spent  in  its  defence." 

After  the  conquest  the  Chateau  de 
Ramezay  was  saved  from  being  a  mere 
fur-trading  post  by  becoming  the  city 
residence  of  the  Baron  de  Longueuil,  a 
Canadian  feudal  lord,  the  towers,  em- 
battlements  and  chapel  of  whose  castle 
were  visible  on  the  south  side  of  the 
river.  The  founder  of  this  house,  which 
to-day  holds  the  only  hereditary  feudal 
barony  of  Canada,  was  Charles  Le- 
Moyne,  who  came  to  Canada  in  1642 
with  Maisonneuve.  This  man  was  the 
son  of  an  innkeeper  at  Dieppe  (France), 
who  it  is  alleged  was  descended  from  a 
younger  branch  of  the  old  Norman 
family  of  LeMoyne,  the  head  of  the 
house  being  the  Marquis  de  Longueuil. 

Fourteen  years  after  his  arrival  in  Can- 
ada, LeMoyne  received  the  Seigniory  of 
Longueuil,  he  having  in  the  meantime 
amassed  a  considerable  fortune  in  the 
fur  trade. 

The  eldest  son,  who  was  named  after 


CANADA  UNDER  ENGLISH  RULE.        135 

his  father,  was  born  in  1656,  and  in 
recognition  of  his  services  at  a  siege  of 
Quebec,  and  against  the  Iroquois,  he  was 
made  a  Baron  of  France  in  1700  by 
Louis  i4th.  The  old  deed  of  nobility 
is  to  this  day  in  an  almost  perfect 
condition. 

An  original  sketch  of  the  Chateau  de 
Longueuil,  taken  after  a  fire  which  par- 
tially destroyed  it  in  1792,  is  still  in 
possession  of  the  family.  The  Chateau, 
or  in  reality  the  Castle,  was  built  by  the 
first  Baron  in  1699,  and  for  nearly  a 
hundred  years  sheltered  the  family  of 
LeMoyne. 

It  stood  partly  on  the  ground  now 
occupied  by  the  front  of  the  present 
parish  church  of  Longueuil,  and  partly 
across  the  highway,  at  a  corner  of  the 
Chambly  road.  The  north-west  tower 
was  located  as  late  as  1835,  but  was 
covered  with  earth  by  the  excavation 
for  the  new  church.  The  Chateau,  com- 
prising the  chapel,  was  210  by  170  feet, 
and  was  constructed  in  the  strongest 
possible  manner  of  stones  which  were 


136  FRENCH  CANADA. 

gathered  by  the  river  bank.  The  build- 
ing was  two  storeys  in  height  all  around, 
and  was  flanked  by  four  towers  with 
conical  tops.  There  were  high  gables 
over  the  building,  and  in  the  centre  a 
court.  On  the  river-side  front  it  was 
loop-holed  for  defence,  and  it  was  here 
that  the  retainers  came  in  time  of  trouble. 
On  the  west  side  was  the  chapel,  which 
was  large  and  extensive. 

After  the  fire  it  was  never  again  occu- 
pied, and  later  on  the  stone  work 
went  to  help  make  the  present  road- 
way, as  had  been  the  fate  of  many  an 
Italian  palace  and  temple  of  Greece. 
The  family  gave  the  land  where  the  pre- 
sent church  stands,  and  they  also  built 
the  first  church,  with  vaults  below.  This 
was  done  on  condition  that  the  family 
should  all  be  buried  there,  and  so  far  this 
has  been  carried  out.  The  barony  was 
once  very  extensive,  taking  in  a  territory 
of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  square 
miles,  including  St.  Helen's  Island,  upon 
which  may  still  be  recognized  the  ruins 
of  the  residence  which  stood  on  the 


CANADA  UNDER  ENGLISH  RULE.          137 

eastern  side  of  it,  Capt.  Grant  and  his 
wife,  Madame  de  Baronne  de  Longueuil, 
having  lived  there  for  some  time. 

Fort  Senneville,  an  interesting  ruin,  at 
the  western  end  of  Montreal  Island,  and 
which  was  destroyed  by  Benedict  Arnold 
at  the  invasion  of  Canada,  during  the 
American  Revolution,  was  erected  by  the 
Le  Ber  family,  which  was  closely  allied  to 
that  of  LeMoyne,  and  was  enobled  at  the 
same  time  as  the  latter.  The  fort  was 
intended  for  a  fortified  fur-trading  post. 

In  1880  the  seventh  Baron  claimed 
royal  recognition  from  the  English 
Crown  of  his  title  to  the  old  French 
Barony,  which  Queen  Victoria  was 
graciously  pleased  to  recognize.  The 
de  Longueuil  family  was  always  gener- 
ously treated  by  royalty,  and  on  the 
Richelieu  river  are  several  Seigniories 
which  have  been  granted  to  members  of 
it.  On  the  same  side  of  the  river  St. 
Lawrence,  but  a  considerable  distance 
inland,  is  the  pretty  town  of  Iberville. 
It  is  named  after  LeMoyne  d' Iberville,  a 
member  of  this  family,  who,  with  his 


138  FRENCH  CANADA. 

seven  brothers,  took  their  several  names 
from  their  seigniories,  and  were  all  dis- 
tinguished for  daring  and  ambition  in  all 
the  perilous  adventures  of  New  France 
in  their  day. 


In  the  Indian  village  of  Caughnawaga, 
situated  near  the  Lachine  Rapids,  is  the 
half-ruined  Curial  House,  if  it  may  be  so 
called,  of  the  early  historian,  the  Jesuit 
Charlevoix.  Like  all  French  travellers 


CANADA  UNDER  ENGLISH  RULE.          139 

of  that  period,  he  had  his  visions  of  reach- 
ing the  Pacific  coast,  which,  although 
never  realized,  yet  he  was  a  celebrated 
explorer  and  an  accurate  and  painstaking 
writer.  His  "  Histoire  Generate  de  la 
Nouvelle  France"  is  a  valuable  and 
authentic  history  of  the  period  it  covers, 
and  is  looked  upon  as  one  of  the  most 
reliable  authorities  to-day. 

In  this  thrifty  hamlet,  clustering  around 
the  church,  under  whose  steeple  worship 
the  remnants  of  the  once  fierce  and 
dreaded  Iroquis,  are  the  last  of  their  race. 
They  are  adroit  in  the  use  of  the  canoe, 
and  for  many  years  have  acted  as  pilots 
for  the  St.  Lawrence  steamers  in  the 
perilous  navigation  of  the  Rapids.  The 
squaws  are  skilful  in  the  bead  work  so 
dear  to  the  savage  heart,  and  form 
picturesque  groups  in  blankets  and 
moccasins  exposing  their  wares  for  sale 
in  the  railway  stations. 

About  ten  years  after  the  British  occu- 
pation, the  Chateau  de  Ramezay  fell 
again  into  government  hands,  being 
selected  as  the  official  residence.  One  of 


140  FRENCH  CANADA. 

those  who  frequently  crossed  its  thresh- 
hold  at  this  period  was  General  Thomas 
Gage,  second  in  command  under  Sir 
Jeffrey  Amherst. 

He  was  the  first  British  Governor  of 
Montreal,  and  the  last  of  Massachusetts, 
and    was    remarkable    for   his    doughty 
deeds  during  the  American   Revolution. 
And  then  in  these  rooms,  where  so  often 
had  sparkled  French  wit  and  wine,  high- 
born English  dames  held  sway,  with  the 
grand    manners    and    stately   dances    of 
Queen    Charlotte's    Drawing    Rooms  at 
Windsor     Castle.        These    doors     were 
none  too  large  for  the    extended    skirts 
and     towering     head-dresses,     some    of 
which  had  satin   cushions  large  enough 
to    have    had   the    family    coat    of   arms 
painted  on   them,  and  yet   had  room    to 
spare.      The  ladies  naturally  followed  the 
fashions  set  by  the  Queen,  who  was  ex- 
ceedingly   fond  of    display    in  dress,  and 
had  an  oriental    love   for   gems.     A  des- 
cription of  one  of  her  toilettes   has  come 
down  to  us,  which  was  almost  barbaric  in 
its  profusion   of  ornaments.     At  the  first 


CANADA   UNDER  ENGLISH  RULE. 


142  FRENCH  CANADA. 

Drawing  Room  held  after  King  George's 
recovery  from  a  dangerous  illness,  she 
"fairly  glittered  in  a  blaze  of  diamonds. 
Around  her  neck  was  a  double  row  of 
these  gems,  to  which  was  suspended  a 
medallion.  Across  her  shoulders  were 
festooned  three  rows  of  costly  pearls,  and 
the  portrait  of  the  King  was  hung  upon 
the  back  of  her  skirt  from  five  rows  of 
brilliants,  producing  a  gorgeous  effect. 
The  tippet  was  of  fine  lace,  fastened  with 
the  letter  G.  in  diamonds  of  immense  size 
and  value,  and  in  Her  Majesty's  hair  was 
— '  God  save  the  King/  in  letters  formed 
of  the  same  costly  gems." 

Under  her  sovereignty  the  guttural  An- 
glo-Saxon tongue  was  heard  in  the  homes 
and  on  the  streets  mingling  with  the  melli- 
fluent French,  and  the  liturgy  of  West- 
minster Abbey  was  solemnized  side  by 
side  with  the  ritual  of  St.  Peter's  in  the 
hush  of  Sabbaths,  after  the  din  and  clamour 
of  war  had  ceased,  and  quiet  once  more 
reigned  in  the  grey  old  town. 

As  memorials  of  those  days  of  strife, 
carnage  and  conquest,  some  Canadian 


CANADA  UNDER  ENGLISH  RULE. 


143 


names  have  taken  root  in  British  soil.  Gen. 
James  Murray  chose  the  name  of  Beauport 
for  his  country  seat,  and  that  of  the  Earls 
of  Amherst,  among  the  hop  gardens  and 
rose  hedges  of  Kent,  bears  the  name  of 
Montreal,  Amherst  having  been  created 
Baron  of  Montreal. 


AMERICAN  INVASION. 

N  the  year  1775,  when  the  thirteen 
American  Colonies  had  risen  in  arms 
against  the  Motherland,  it  was  to  be  ex- 
pected that  they  would  desire  to  have  the 
assistance  of  those  north  of  the  forty-ninth 
parallel.  Being-  so  recently  laid  under 
British  allegiance,  it  was  supposed  there 
would  be  much  sympathy  for  the  young 
cause  in  the  Canadian  Colonies.  But, 
whether  the  treaty  which  had  been  made 
had  been  considered  gracious  in  its  terms, 
or  that  the  horrible  memories  of  war  had 
not  had  time  to  die  away,  or  from  a  com- 
bination of  causes,  the  French-English  pro- 
vinces refused  to  take  up  the  Colonial  griev- 
ances. To  compel  them  to  do  this,  an 
expedition,  consisting  of  Col.  Ethan  Allen 
and  his  "  Green  Mountain  Boys,"  was  de- 
tached against  Montreal.  Arriving  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  river,  just  below  the 
town, with  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  men, 
he  crossed  over  from  Longueuil  and  reached 


AMERICAN  INVASION.  145 

the  eastern  suburbs  at  about  ten  o'clock 
p.m.,  when  he  proceeded  to  billet  his  men 
in  private  houses.  That  was  before  the 
days  of  telephones,  so  it  was  some  time 
before  the  news  reached  the  city  and  the 
gates  were  closed.  The  rash  project  of 
so  small  a  force  attempting  to  beleaguer  a 
walled  town  of  fourteen  thousand  inhabi- 
tants could  have  but  one  outcome,  and  it 
resulted  in  the  capture  of  Ethan  Allen. 
He  was  brought  in  through  the  Quebec 
Gate,  or  Porle  St.  Martin,  sent  to  Eng- 
land and  lodged  in  Pendennis  Castle, 
where  he  could  hear  the  moan  of  the  wide 
sea  that  separated  him  from  the  land  he 
loved  and  longed  to  fight  for. 

But  the  expedition  was  not  abandoned 
on  account  of  this  repulse,  for  soon  General 
Montgomery  appeared.  Rattray  describes 
Montgomery  as  a  brave  officer  of  generous 
and  exemplary  character.  He  was  an 
Irishman,  a  lieutenant  in  the  1 7th  Foot,  but 
resigned  his  commission  in  the  year  1772, 
owing,  it  is  said,  to  some  grievance  con- 
nected with  promotion  ;  when  he  settled 
and  married  in  the  State  of  New  York. 


146  FRENCH  CANADA. 

Crossing  the  Canadian  lines  he  captured 
Forts  St.  Jean  and  Chambly,  the  latter  a 
stone  fortress  on  the  site  of  a  post  built  by 
Tracey's  men,  and  thus  he  became  pos- 
sessed of  ammunition  and  other  military 
stores  of  which  he  stood  in  need.  The 
French-Canadian  Noblesse  were  the  first  to 
offer  to  defend  the  country  against  the  in- 
vader, but  Sir  Guy  Carleton,  Commander- 
in-Chief  of  the  forces,  being  without  suffi- 
cient troops  to  successfully  resist  attack  at 
this  point,  determined  to  retire  to  Quebec 
and  make  a  resolute  stand  within  its  walls. 
He  therefore  dismissed  to  their  homes  the 
Canadians  under  arms,  spiked  the  cannon 
and  burned  the  bateaux  he  could  not  use. 
Three  armed  sloops  were  loaded  with  pro- 
visions and  baggage  to  be  ready  for  emer- 
gency. He  felt  it  was  a  point  of  honour 
to  remain  at  Montreal  as  long  as  possible, 
but  it  was  of  the  utmost  importance  to  the 
cause  that  his  person  should  not  fall  into 
the  hands  of  the  enemy.  He  therefore 
remained  until  news  arrived  that  the 
Americans  had  landed  on  a  small  island  in 
the  river,  a  short  distance  above  the  city, 


AMERICAN  INVASION.  147 

now  called  Nun's  Island,  and  then  hurried 
arrangements  were  made  for  his  departure. 
As  he  left  the  Chateau,  passing  out  of  the 
main  entrance  and  down  the  path  that  led 
to  the  river,  he  was  followed  by  groups  of 
friends  and  citizens,  whose  sad  counten- 
ances evinced  their  forebodings  of  the 
future.  The  historian  Bouchette,  whose 
father  was  one  of  those  in  attendance  on 
the  Commander,  relates  the  incidents  of 
the  perilous  and  momentous  journey  in 
the  following  words : — 

"  It  was  through  the  intrepidity  of  a 
party  of  Canadian  boatmen  that  the  Gov- 
ernor of  the  country  was  enabled,  after 
escaping  the  most  critical  perils,  to  reach 
the  Capital  of  the  Province,  where  his  ar- 
rival is  well  known  to  have  prevented  the 
capitulation  of  Quebec  and  the  surrender 
of  the  country.  In  reverting  to  the  history 
of  the  Revolutionary  contest,  no  event  will 
be  found  more  strikingly  illustrative  of  the 
extraordinary  chances  of  war  than  the 
perilous,  though  fortunate,  adventure  of  the 
Commander-in-Chief  of  the  army  in  Can- 
ada, whose  descent  by  water  from  Mon- 


148  FRENCH  CANADA. 

treal  to  Quebec  was  effected  with  safety  in 
the  very  teeth  of  danger.  The  shores 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  for  upwards  of 
fifty  miles  below  the  city  were  possessed 
by  the  enemy,  who  had  constructed  armed 
rafts  and  floating  batteries  at  the  junction 
of  the  Sorel  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  to  cut 
off  communication  with  the  Capital.  Upon 
the  successful  issue  of  so  hazardous  an  at- 
tempt depended  the  preservation  of  Can- 
ada, and  the  taking  of  General  Carleton, 
which  appeared  nearly  certain,  would  have 
rendered  its  fate  inevitable  ;  but  the  happy 
arrival  of  the  Governor  at  Quebec  at  so 
critical  a  juncture,  and  the  well-advised 
and  active  steps  which  he  immediately 
adopted;  secured  to  Britain  a  footing  in 
that  beautiful  portion  of  America  which 
circumstances  threatened  to  forever  deny 
her.  A  clandestine  escape  from  the  sur- 
rounding enemy  was  the  only  alternative 
left,  and  an  experienced  officer,  distin- 
guished for  his  intrepidity  and  courage,  was 
immediately  sent  for  to  concert  measures 
for  the  General's  precipitate  departure. 
Captain  Bouchette,  the  officer  selected  for 


AMERICAN  INVASION.  149 

this  purpose,  then  in  command  of  an  armed 
vessel  in  the  harbour,  and  who  was  styled 
the  '  wild  pigeon '  on  account  of  the 
celerity  of  his  movements,  zealously  as- 
sumed the  responsible  duty  assigned  him, 
suggesting  at  the  same  time  the  absolute 
necessity  of  the  General's  disguise  in  the 
costume  of  a  Canadian  peasant  fisherman. 
This  was  deemed  prudent  as  increasing 
the  chances  of  escape,  if,  as  seemed  pro- 
bable, they  should  fall  in  with  the  enemy, 
whose  gun-boats,  chiefly  captures,  were 
cruising  in  various  parts  of  the  river. 

It  was  a  dark  and  damp  night  in 
November,  a  light  skiff  with  muffled  pad- 
dles, manned  by  a  few  chosen  men,  pro- 
visioned with  three  biscuits  each,  lay  along- 
side the  waiting  vessel."  Under  cover  of 
the  night,  the  disguised  Governor  em- 
barked, attended  by  an  orderly  sergeant, 
and  his  devoted  Aide-de-Camp,  Charles 
Terieu  de  la  Perade,  Sieur  de  Lanau- 
diere,  Seigneur  de  Ste.  Anne,  and  a  lineal 
descendant  of  de  Ramezay.  The  skiff 
silently  pushed  off,  the  Captain  frequently 
communicating  his  orders  in  a  precon- 


150  FRENCH  CANADA. 

certed  manner  by  silently  touching  the 
shoulder  or  head  of  the  man  next  to  him, 
who  passed  on  the  signal  to  the  one  near- 
est, and  so  on.  "  Their  perplexity  in- 
creased as  they  approached  the  Berthier 
Islands,  from  the  knowledge  that  the 
enemy  had  taken  up  strong  positions  at 
this  point,  especially  in  the  islands  which 
commanded  the  channel  on  the  south- 
west of  Lake  St.  Peter,  which  compelled 
their  adoption  of  the  other  to  the  north- 
ward, although  the  alternative  seemed 
equally  fraught  with  peril,  as  the  Ameri- 
can troops  were  encamped  on  the  banks. 
The  most  eminent  danger  they  experi- 
enced was  passing  through  the  ;  Nar- 
rows'  at  Berthier,  the  shores  of  which 
were  lined  by  American  bivouacs,  whose 
blazing  fires,  reflecting  far  out  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  waters,  obliged  them  to  stoop, 
cease  paddling  and  allow  themselves  to 
drift  down  with  the  current,  imitating  the 
appearance  of  drifting  timber  frequently 
seen  in  the  St.  Lawrence.  So  near  did 
they  approach,  that  the  Sentinel's  exulting 
shout  of  '  All's  well '  occasionally  broke 


AMERICAN  INVASION.  151 

upon  the  awful  stillness  of  the  night.  Their 
perilous  situation  was  increased  by  the 
constant  barking  of  dogs  that  seemed  to 
threaten  them  with  discovery.  It  evi- 
dently required  the  greatest  prudence  and 
good  fortune  to  escape  the  vigilance  of  an 
enemy  thus  stationed.  The  descent  was, 
however,  happily  made  by  impelling  the 
skiff  smoothly  along  the  water,  and  pad- 
dling with  the  hands  for  a  distance  of  nine 
miles.  After  ascertaining  that  the  enemy 
had  not  yet  .occupied  Three  Rivers  (a 
point  half  way  to  Quebec),  they  repaired 
thither  to  recruit  from  their  fatigue,  when 
the  whole  party  narrowly  escaped  being 
made  prisoners  by  a  detachment  of  the 
American  Army  which  was  then  entering 
the  town.  Overcome  by  exhaustion,  the 
General  leaned  over  a  table  in  an  inner 
room  and  fell  asleep.  The  clang  of  arms 
was  presently  heard  in  the  outer  passage, 
and  soon  afterward  American  soldiers 
filled  the  adjoining  apartment  to  that  in 
which  the  General  himself  was,  but  his  dis- 
guise proved  his  preservation.  Captain 
Bouchette,  with  peculiar  self-possession 


152  FRENCH  CANADA. 

and  affected  listlessness,  walked  up  to  the 
Governor,  and  with  the  greatest  familiarity 
beckoned  him  away,  at  the  same  time  ap 
prising  him  of  the  threatened  danger. 
Passing  through  the  midst  of  the  heedless 
guards,  and  hastening  to  the  beach,  they 
moved  oft  precipitately  in  the  skiff  and 
reached  unmolested  the  foot  of  the  Riche- 
lieu Rapids,  where  an  armed  brig  was  for- 
tunately found  lying  at  anchor,  which  on 
their  arrival  immediately  set  sail  with  a 
favouring  breeze  for  Quebec. 

Arrived  at  the  Citadel,  they  proceeded 
to  the  Chateau  St.  Louis,  where  the  im- 
portant services  just  rendered  the  country 
were  generously  acknowledged." 

It  is  remarkable  that  the  man  who 
shared  so  largely  in  the  risk  involved  in 
this  dramatic  scene  should  have  been  a 
Frenchman,  Carleton's  Aide-de-camp.  Be- 
tween him  and  his  Chief  a  warm  attach- 
ment continued  to  exist  until  the  end  of 
their  lives,  an  uninterrupted  correspon- 
dence being  kept  up  between  this  noble 
soldier,  Charles  Terieu  de  Lanaudiere  and 
Lord  Dorchester,  after  the  latter  with  the 


AMERICAN  INVASION. 


153 


title  bestowed  upon  him  for  his  success  on 
this  occasion  had  retired  from  active  ser- 
vice in  the  colonies.  De  Lanaudiere's  career 
was  a  remarkable  one.  He  began  with  the 


rank  of  Lieutenant  in  the  Regiment  de  la 
Sarre,  and  was  wounded  in  the  battle  of  Ste. 
Foye,  He  was  afterwards  received  with 
royal  favour  by  King  George  the  Third, 
being  present  at  the  state  dinner  when  His 


154 


FRENCH  CANADA. 


Majesty  with  the  dignity  which  he  knew 
how  to  assume  when  the  occasion  required, 
rang  for  the  carriage  of  his  sometime 
favourite,  the  fastidious  Beau  Brummel,who 
had  'presumed  on  his  august  good  nature 
by  undue  familiarity. 


THE  CONTINENTAL  ARMY  IN 
CANADA. 

/^vN  the  Sunday  following  Sir  Guy  Carle- 
ton's  departure  from  Montreal,  as  the 
people  were  proceeding  to  church,  they 
were  thrown  into  a  state  of  great  alarm  by 
the  tidings  of  the  landing  of  Montgomery's 
force  on  the  Island  of  Montreal  itself,  at 
the  spot  where  now  the  great  Victoria 
Bridge  springs  from  the  shore,  this  densely- 
packed  manufacturing  district  being  then 
swamps  and  meadows.  There  was  no 
hope  of  attempting  defence  under  the  cir- 
cumstances, so  both  French  and  English, 
represented  by  an  important  committee  of 
the  foremost  inhabitants  of  the  town,  head- 
ed by  Col.  Pierre  Guy,  entered  into  terms 
with  Montgomery  respecting  persons  and 
property.  At  nine  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing, Nov.  13,  1775,  the  American  troops 
marched  in  through  the  same  gate  by  which 
Amherst  had  entered  sixteen  years  before. 
Just  inside  the  walls  was  the  most  sump- 


156  FRENCH  CANADA. 

tuous  private  dwelling  in  the  city,  called 
the  Chateau  Fortier.  Its  walls  were  hung 
with  beautiful  tapestries  wrought  in  histori- 
cal scenes,  and  its  rooms  were  elegantly 
furnished  and  elaborately  wainscotted. 
This  old  house  still  stands  among  the  tall, 
business  blocks,  strong  yet  as  a  fortress, 
with  high  tin  roof  and  deep  windows  and 
doors.  It  is  now  used  as  a  tavern,  but 
even  this  does  not  spoil  the  charm  of  its 
unique  exterior,  which  still  remains  un- 
changed since  the  winter  of  1775,  when 
Montgomery  and  his  officers  held  their 
mess  here,  and  the  descendants  of  the  Puri- 
tans changed  the  character  of.  the  French 
chateau,  as  Oliver  Cromwell  and  his 
"  Roundheads/'  a  century  before,  altered 
that  of  the  English  palace  of  Whitehall. 

Little  or  nothing  is  known  of  what  hap- 
pened in  Montreal  during  the  autumn  of 
1775,  when  the  Army  of  Congress  held 
possession  of  the  town.  There  may,  and 
doubtless  were,  some  sympathizers  in  the 
city  who  frequented  the  Chateau  Fortier? 
but  the  loyalists  avoided  its  vicinity  as 
much  as  policy  permitted.  The  French 


THE  CONTINENTAL  ARMJ  IN  CANADA.       157 

and  English  ladies  looked  askance  at  the 
American  soldiers,  and  if  a  town,  invested 
by  an  enemy,  indulged  in  any  form'of  mer- 
riment, it  is  probable  that  no  invitation  was 
ever  addressed  to  General  Montgomery 
or  Brigadier- General  Wooster.  In  their 
rounds  of  the  town  it  may  have  been  that 
glimpses  of  home  gatherings  in  the  fire- 
light may  have  given  to  these  men  of  war 
many  a  twinge  of  homesickness  for  hearths 
across  the  border,  where  women  who  had 
been  clad  in  satin  and  brocade  sat  spin- 
ning homespun,  and  were  content  to  drink 
spring  water  from  the  hills,  while  the  tea 
they  had  loved  to  sip  in  their  Colonial 
drawing-rooms  was  floating  about  the  Bos- 
ton beaches.  If  the  Boys  in  blue  and  buff 
encountered  any  of  the  Montreal  maidens 
in  their  walks  by  the  river,  or  glanced  at 
them  as  they  passed  through  the  gates  to 
wander  in  the  maple  woods  around,  the 
English  girls  passed  them  haughtily  with 
a  cold  disdain  in  their  blue  eyes,  and  the 
French  demoiselles  flashed  a  fine  scorn 
from  the  depths  of  their  dark  orbs,  which 
wounded  as  keenly  as  a  thrust  of  steel. 
10 


158  FRENCH  CANADA. 

Events  followed  each  other  so  rapidly 
across  the  line  that  Montgomery,  tired  of 
inaction,  resolved  to  carry  out  before  the 
year  ended  his  cherished  plan  of  making 
an  assault  on  Quebec,  and  proceeded  to 
join  Arnold's  men,  who,  half-famished  and 
in  rags,  had  arrived  outside  that  city's 
walls. 

Arnold,  who  was  born  at  Norwich,  Con- 
necticut,  Jan.   14,  1741,  was,  it  is  said,  a 
very  handsome  man,  but  his  character  was 
a    striking   combination    of    contradictory 
qualities,    and  his  career   marked    by  ex- 
tremes.    He   was  the  bearer  of    a   letter 
from  General  Washington  to  the  Canadians, 
in  which  was  written  :     "  We  have   taken 
up  arms  in  defence  of  our  liberty,  our  pro- 
perty, our  wives  and   our  children.     The 
Grand    American    Congress    has    sent  an 
army  into  your  province,  not  to  plunder  but 
to  protect  you.     To  co-operate  with  this 
design  I  have   detached    Col,  Arnold  into 
your  country,   with   a  part   of  the    Army 
under  my  command.     Come  then,  ye  gen- 
erous citizens,  range  yourselves  under  the 
standard  of  general   liberty,  against  which 


THE  CONTINENTAL  ARM7  IN  CANADA.       1  59 

all  the  force   of  artifice  and   tyranny    will 
never  be  able  to  prevail." 

Arnold  with  his  two  regiments,  number- 
ing together  about  eleven  hundred  men, 
had  left  Boston  in  the  month  of 
September,  with  the  fixed  intention  of 
penetrating  the  unbroken  wilderness  which 
lay  between  the  two  cities.  On  the 
twenty-second  of  the  month  he  embarked 
with  his  troops  on  the  Kennebec  River, 
in  two  hundred  batteaux,  and  notwithstand- 
ing "  all  the  natural  impediments,  the 
ascent  of  the  rapid  streams,  interrupted 
by  frequent  portages,  through  thick  woods 
and  swamps,  in  spite  of  accidents,  the 
desertion  of  one-third  of  their  number, 
difficulties  and  privations  so  great  as  on 
one  occasion  to  compel  them  to  kill  their 
dogs  for  sustenance  ;  "  after  thirty- two 
days  of  the  perils  of  this  wilderness 
march  they  came  in  sight  of  the  first 
settlement  near  Quebec. 

About  a  week  later,  when  darkness 
had  fallen  along  the  river  shores  and 
lights  twinkled  from  the  little  dwellings 
of  the  lower  town  on  the  opposite  bank, 


160  FRENCH  CANADA. 

they  embarked  in  canoes  for  a  silent 
passage  across,  and  arrived  early  in  the 
morning  at  Wolfe's  Cove,  where,  sixteen 
years  before,  a  similar  landing  had  been 
effected,  with  the  same  purpose  in  view 
of  assaulting  the  garrison  in  the  seem- 
ingly impregnable  fortress.  For  weeks 
the  blockade  was  maintained,  the  Ameri- 
can troops  being  established  in  every 
house  near  the  walls,  more  especially  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  Intendant's  Palace, 
which  once  had  been  gorgeous  with  the 
prodigal  luxury  and  magnificence  for 
which  this  old  Chateau  had  been  notori- 
ous. The  roughly-shod  New  England 
soldiers  tramped  through  the  rooms  and 
up  the  noble  staircases  on  which  ladies 
of  fashion  had  glided  when  the  infamous 
Intendant  Bigot  had  disgraced  his  King 
and  office  by  his  profligacies.  These 
men,  establishing  themselves  in  the 
cupola,  found  it  an  excellent  vantage 
point  to  fire  upon  and  annoy  the  sen- 
tries on  guard. 

On    the    5th    of    December    General 
Montgomery  arrived  with  his  troops  from 


THE  CONTINENTAL  ARMY  IN  CANADA.      161 

Montreal  and  joined  Arnold.  "  They 
sent  a  flag  of  truce  to  General  Carleton, 
who  utterly  disregarded  it,  declaring  that 
he  would  not  have  any  communication 
with  rebels  unless  they  came  to  claim  the 
King's  mercy." 

General  Montgomery,  realizing  that  it 
was  impossible  to  carry  on  a  regular 
siege,  with  neither  the  engineers  nor 
artillery  requisite  for  the  purpose,  deter- 
mined upon  a  night  attack.  This  inten- 
tion became  known  to  the  garrison,  and 
the  most  careful  precautions  were  taken 
against  surprise.  For  several  days  those 
on  duty  and  in  responsible  positions 
observed  the  strictest  vigilance,  even 
sleeping  in  their  clothes,  with  their  arms 
within  reach,  to  be  ready  for  the  slightest 
alarm.  The  report  reached  the  garrison 
that  Montgomery  had  said  that  he  would 
dine  within  the  walls  on  Christmas  Day, 
and  he  certainly  seemed  to  consider  him- 
self sure  of  victory. 

Arnold's  communications  to  Carleton 
has  been  treated  with  contempt,  no  parley 
being  entered  into  nor  conditions  con- 


162  FRENCH  CANADA. 

sidered.  Montgomery  tried  various  ex- 
pedients to  have  his  messages  received, 
but  without  success,  until  an  old  woman 
was  found  willing  to  carry  them  in.  On 
her  errand  becoming  known,  she  was 
arrested,  imprisoned  for  a  few  hours  and 
then  drummed  out  of  the  city,  thus  re- 
ceiving the  most  disgraceful  dismissal 
possible  in  military  discipline.  The  two 
letters  of  which  she  was  the  bearer  were 
directed,  one  to  Carleton  and  the  other  to 
the  citizens. 

That  to  the  Governor  read  :— 
"I  am   at  the  head   of  troops   accus- 
tomed to  success,  confident  of  the  right- 
eousness of  the  cause  they   are  engaged 
in  and  inured  to  danger." 

To  the  people  his  words  were  :— 
"  My  friends  and  fellow  subjects,  'tis 
with  the  utmost  compunction  I  find  my- 
self reduced  to  measures  which  may  over- 
whelm you  with  distress.  The  city  in 
flames  at  this  severe  season,  a  general 
attack  on  your  wretched  works,  defended 
by  a  more  wretched  garrison,  the  confu- 
sion, carnage  and  plunder  which  mus 


THE  CONTINENTAL  ARMY  IN  CANADA.     163 

be  the  consequence  of  such  an  attack,  fill 
me  with  horror  !  Let  me  entreat  you  to 
use  your  endeavours  to  procure  my  peace- 
able admission.  I  have  not  the  reproach 
to  make  my  own  conscience  that  I  have 
not  warned  you  of  your  danger." 

Montgomery,   waiting  for   a  night   of 
unusual  darkness,  during  which  he  hoped 
to  place  his  ladders  against  the  barriers 
unnoticed  by  the  guards,  found  the  3ist 
of  December  suited  to  his  purpose.     On 
the  last  day  of  the  year,  when  in  Boston, 
New  York  and  other   American  towns, 
family    re-unions  and  festive  gatherings 
were  taking  place,  as  far  as  the  disturbed 
state   of     the    country    permitted,     in    a 
blinding    snow-storm,   poorly-clad,     but 
resolute,    these   troops    stood    in    line  of 
battle,   waiting    for  the    word    of  com- 
mand  through    the  dreary  hours  of  that 
night,    in  which    ev^ry    belfry    in     New 
England    was  chiming  out  the  dawn  of 
the    New    Year,    which  was    to    be    the 
greatest  in  the  Republic's  history — 1776 
—the  birth  year  of  the  nation. 
At   four  o'clock  in  the    morning    two 


164  FRENCH  CANADA. 

rockets  glared  redly  to  the  sky,  and  were 
immediately  responded  to  by  answering 
signals,  which  were  observed  from  the 
ramparts.  The  solitary  sentinel  on  St. 
John's  Bastion  reported  an  armed  body 
of  men  approaching.  It  was  a  feint  to 
distract  attention  from  the  point  where 
Montgomery  was  to  make  the  attack. 

The  tidings  spread  that  the  riflemen  of 
New  England  were  at  the  gates ;  the 
peaceable  denizens  of  the  town  were 
startled  withfthe  cry  of  "  To  arms  !  To 
arms!"  from  officers  hastening  through 
the  streets.  The  pickets  in  the  Recollet 
Convent  hurriedly  gathered — the  church 
bells  clanged  out  the  alarm  for  the  troops 
to  march  at  once  to  their  posts,  while 
drums  beat  and  muskets  rattled. 

"  Ah  !  then  and  there  was  hurrying  to  and  fro, 
And  gathering  tears  and  tremblings  of  distress, 

And  cheeks  all  pale — and    whispering  with  white 

lips, 
'  The  foe  !  They  come,  they  come  ! ' ' 

Lights  glimmered  from  the  frost-cov- 
ered casements  as  fearful  mothers  tried  to 
still  the  cries  of  their  children,  frightened 


THE  CONTINENTAL  ARM7  IN  CANADA.     165 

with  the  unusual  clamour.  Hands  were 
rung  and  tearful  farewells  taken  of  those 
whose  duty  called  them  out,  with  no  cer- 
tainty of  return,  for 

"  Who  could  guess  if  ever  more  should  meet  those 
mutual  eyes  ?  " 

Arnold's  men  rushed  at  the  barricades 
in  Sault-au-Matelot  St.,  with  the  words 
"  Victory  or  Death  "  stuck  in  their  hats, 
while  Montgomery  approached  by  a  path 
known  as  "  Pres-de-Ville. "  It  was  ex- 
tremely narrow,  and  obstructed  with 
blocks  of  ice  and  snow-drifts.  It  was  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  where  now  are  the 
wharves  of  the  Allan  Line  Steamship  Co. 

In  the  narrowest  part  the  Americans 
marched  slowly  and  cautiously.  They 
passed  the  outer  barrier  without  resist- 
ance and  approached  the  inner,  com- 
manded by  Dambourges.  All  was  appar- 
ently unwarned  and  silent,  but  it  was  not 
deserted.  Within  was  a  masked  battery 
of  only  a  few  three-pounders,  with  a  little 
band  of  Canadians,  eight  British  Militia 
and  nine  seamen  to  work  the  guns. 


166  FRENCH  CANADA. 

The  force  advanced  to  within  thirty 
yards,  with  Montgomery  in  front.  Be- 
side a  gun,  which  pointed  directly  down 
their  path,  Sergeant  Hugh  McQuarters 
stood  ready,  the  match  in  his  hand 
lighted  to  send  the  deadly  missile  at  the 
advancing  column. 

A   quick    movement — a    flash — a   dull 
boom — and    the   fearless     leader   of  the 
assault  fell  dead,  with  twelve  others,  in- 
cluding his  secretary  and  aide-de-camp- 
Arnold,    his    lieutenant,   being  wounded, 
and  thus  ended  the  fifth  and  last  siege  of 
Quebec. 

It  was  well  for  Quebec  that  her  gates 
that  night  were  not  thrown  open  to  the 
sack  of  troops,  among  which  was  Aaron 
Burr,  who  had  accompanied  Arnold's 
command.  These  two  men  were  pos- 
sessed of  less  moral  character  than  any 
who  were  connected  with  the  Revolu- 
tionary struggle.  Arnold  was  a  strange 
mixture  of  bravery  and  treachery,  gen- 
erosity and  rapacity,  courage  and  petty 
spite.  This  arch-traitor  subsequently 
offered  to  sell  West  Point  to  the  British 


THE  CONTINENTAL  ARM7  IN  CANADA.      167 

for  $30,000,  then  took  service  among  his 
country's  foes,  and  returned  to  pillage 
and  ravage  his  former  comrades.  Aaron 
Burr,  though  descended  from  generations 
of  clergymen,  among  whom  was  the 
saintly  and  learned  Jonathan  Edwards, 
was  guilty  of  murder,  treason,  and  every 
other  vice  by  which  a  man  could  become 
notorious,  his  whole  career  leaving  dis- 
honour, blasting,  misery  and  death,  like 
the  trail  of  a  venomous  serpent,  behind 
him. 

Governor  Carleton,  being  desirous  of 
ascertaining  the  certainty  of  Mont- 
gomery's fate,  sent  an  aide-de-camp  to 
enquire  if  any  of  the  American  prisoners 
would  identify  the  body.  A  field  officer, 
who  had  commanded  in  Arnold's  Divi- 
sion, consented  to  perform  the  sad  office. 
He  followed  the  aide-de-camp  to  the 
Pres-de-Ville  guard,  and  singled  out  from 
among  the  other  bodies  his  General's 
remains,  by  the  side  of  which  lay  his 
sword,  at  the  same  time  pronouncing  with 
the  deepest  emotion  a  glowing  eulogium 
of  the  worth  and  character  of  him  who, 


168 


FRENCH  CANADA. 


frozen  stiff  and  cold,  had  been  found  half 
buried  in  his  winding-sheet — a  Canadian 
snow-drift.  Deeply  impressed  by  the 
scene  and  circumstances,  Sir  Guy  Carle- 
ton  ordered  that  his  late  enemy  be  in- 
terred in  the  foreign  soil  with  the  glory 
of  martial,  burial  honours.  In  the 
Chateau  Museum  may  be  seen  a  sword 
which  was  picked  up  in  the  morning  after 
Montgomery's  repulse.  It  is  in  a  good 
state  of  preservation,  much  care  evidently 
having  since  been  bestowed  upon  it. 


THE  CONTINENTAL  ARMY  IN  CANADA.    169 

"  Of  these  five  sieges,  in  the  years 
1629,  1690,  1759,  1760  and  1775,  none 
were  pushed  with  more  spirit  and  appar- 
ent prospects  of  success  than  this  block- 
ade of  the  city  by  the  two  armies  sent 
by  Congress  in  the  autumn  of  1775, 
under  the  advice  of  the  illustrious 
General  George  Washington  ;  and,  had 
there  been  a  governor  less  firm,  less  wise 
and  less  conciliating  than  Sir  Guy  Carle- 
ton,  the  Star-Spangled  Banner  would 
now  be  floating  from  Cape  Diamond. 

Fort  after  fort,  town  after  town,  Ticon- 
deroga,  Crown  Point,  Saint  John, 
Chambly,  Montreal,  Sorel  and  Three 
Rivers,  had  hoisted  the  white  emblem  of 
surrender,  but  there  still  streamed  to  the 
breeze  the  banner  of  St.  George  on  the 
Citadel.  With  the  black  flag  of  rebellion 
over  the  suburbs  and  the  American  rifle- 
men of  undisputed  courage  and  deter- 
mination thundering  at  the  gates,  never 
had  a  brave  little  garrison  to  contend 
against  greater  odds,  nor  leader  to  accept 
a  more  unequal  contest,  no  help  from 
Britain  being  possible." 


170  FRENCH  CANADA. 

"  When  news  reached  Congress  that 
the  assault  on  Quebec  had  failed  ;  that 
Montgomery  had  been  left  dead  on  the 
snowy  heights,  and  Arnold  had  been 
borne  from  the  field  ;  that  cold,  hunger 
and  small-pox  were  wasting  the  army, 
and  that  discipline  was  forgotten,  the 
expedient  was  resorted  to  of  appointing 
commissioners  to  go  to  Montreal  to  con- 
fer with  Arnold,  and  arrange  a  plan  for 
the  rectification  of  Canadian  affairs." 

They  were  received  by  General  Arnold 
in  the  most  polite  manner,  conducted  to 
the  Chateau  de  Ramezay,  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Continental  Army,  where 
a  "  genteel  "  company  of  ladies  and  gen- 
tlemen had  assembled  to  welcome  them, 
after  which  they  supped  with  Arnold, 
probably  in  the  dining-room  adjoining 
the  Salon. 

In  a  vaulted  cellar  next  to  the  subter- 
ranean kitchens  and  dungeons,  Benjamin 
Franklin  set  up  his  printing  press,  the 
first  in  the  city,  and  with  it  issued  mani- 
festoes to  the  people,  to  try  and  induce 
them  to  join  in  rebellion,  and  send  dele- 
gates to  the  Congress  at  Philadelphia. 


THE  CONTINENTAL  ARMY  IN  CANADA.    171 

The  instructions  given  to  Franklin  and 
the  other  members  of  the  commission 
directed  them  to  extend  to  the  Cana- 
dians, "  whom  the  Americans  regarded 
as  brothers,"  the  means  of  assuring  their 
own  independence.  They  were  also  to 
demonstrate  to  the  people  of  Canada  the 
necessity  of  adopting  decisive  and  prompt 
measures  for  coming  under  the  protec- 
tion of  the  American  confederation. 

Through  the  doors  of  the  Chateau 
then  entered  Chase,  Carroll,  of  Carroll- 
town  (who  was  expected  to  have  in- 
fluence with  the  French  people,  and 
especially  with  the  clergy),  and  others 
great  in  the  young  American  Common- 
wealth's struggle  for  freedom.  From 
the  antiquated  ovens,  doubtless  the 
brown  bread  and  baked  beans  of  New 
England  succeeded  the  roast  beef  of  Old 
England,  and  the  entrees,  fricassees  and 
pates  of  the  French  cuisine. 

In  the  gloom  of  this  chamber  Franklin 
no  doubt  uttered  some  of  his  wise  say- 
ings, gems  of  philosophy,  which  in  his 
"  Poor  Richard's  Almanac  "  had  for 


172 


FRENCH  CANADA. 


years   been    familiar    in    every    chimney 
corner  of  New  England. 


In  the  Montreal  Gazette,  which  is  still 
in  circulation,  the  present  voluminous 
and  influential  journalism  of  the  Metro- 
polis of  the  Dominion  had  here  its 
origin  in  the  setting  up  of  this  old  hand 
printing-press,  similar  to  if  not  the  same 
which  is  now  preserved  in  the  Patent 


THE   CONTINENTAL  ARM7  IN  CANADA.    173 

Office  at  Washington.  For  it  Franklin 
sometimes  made  his  own  type  and  ink, 
engraved  the  wood  cuts,  and  even  carried 
in  a  wheelbarrow  through  the  streets  of 
Philadelphia  the  white  paper  required  for 
the  printing  of  his  paper,  the  Pennsyl- 
vania Gazette.  It  is  now  called  the  Sat- 
urday Evening  Post^  and  has  about  it  a 
certain  quaintness  and  originality  sug- 
gestive of  the  great  mind  which  gave 
such  an  impetus  to  the  American  and 
Canadian  press  of  over  a  century  ago. 

"  For  nearly  one  hundred  and  seventy 
years  there  has  been  hardly  a  week,  ex- 
cept only  when  a  British  army  held 
Philadelphia,  when  this  paper  has  not 
been  sent  to  press  regularly. 

His    identification  with  the  history  of 
letters  in  the  United   States  and  Canada 
was  an  epoch  in  the  development  of  both. 
In  the  great  army  of  newsboys  in  America 
Franklin  was  the  first  ;  he  was  also  the 
first  editor  of  a    monthly    magazine    in 
the  country,  his  having  on  its  title  page 
the  Prince  of  Wales'  Feathers,  with  the 
motto  :    '  Ich  Dien.' 
11 


174  FRENCH  CANADA. 

"  He  has  never  been  surpassed  in  the 
editorial  faculty,  at  the  same  time  being* 
apt  as  compositor,  pressman,  verse- 
maker,  compiler  and  reporter  ;  but  as 
adviser,  satirist  and  humorist  he  was 
perhaps  at  his  best.  His  one  and  two 
line  bits  of  comment  and  wisdom  were 
models  of  pithiness,  and  few  writers  have 
equalled  him  in  masterly  skill  in  argu- 
ment. He  is  spoken  of  by  David  Hume 
as  the  first  great  man  of  letters  to  whom 
England  was  beholden  to  America." 

In  addition  to  these  qualifications,  he 
founded  the  Library  of  Philadelphia, 
the  American  post-office  system,  made 
several  valuable  inventions  for  the  im- 
provement of  heating,  was  the  first  to 
call  practical  attention  to  ventilation,  and 
to  attempt  experiment  with  electricity. 
"  He  founded  the  American  Philosophical 
Society,  and  led  to  the  foundation  of  the 
High  School  system  in  the  State  of 
Pennsylvania,  assisted  in  opening  its 
first  hospital,  and  helped  to  defend  the 
city  against  an  attack  of  Indians.  He 
was  a  leading  factor  in  securing  the 


THE  CONTINENTAL  ARMY  IN  CANADA.    175 

union  and  independence  of  the  Colonies, 
being-  the  principal  mover  in  the  repeal 
of  the  Stamp  Act."  He  made  valuable 
meteorological  discoveries,  improved  na- 
vigation, and  was  an  earnest  advocate 
of  the  abolition  of  slavery  ;  so  that  in 
sending  Benjamin  Franklin  to  Canada 
at  this  critical  juncture,  she  was  com- 
pelled to  hold  to  her  political  convictions 
against  one  of  the  intellectual  giants  of 
the  day.  On  discovering  the  patriotic 
obstinacy  of  the  Canadians,  he  wrote  to 
Congress,  saying  :— 

"  We  are  afraid  that  it  will  not  be  in 
our  power  to  render  our  country  any 
further  service  in  this  colony." 

Perceiving  the  hopelessness  of  the  situ- 
ation, and  that  not  even  his  matchless 
logic  could  win  sympathy  in  his  project,  he 
left  Montreal  on  May  n,  and  thus  ended 
the  efforts  to  coerce  Canada  into  a  strug- 
gle which  was  to  try  so  sorely  the  energy 
and  fortitude  of  the  thirteen  colonies — 
efforts  which  had  cost  them  the  life  of  one 
of  their  greatest  generals — Richard  Mont- 
gomery. 


176  FRENCH  CANADA. 

Franklin,  when  leaving,  had  under  his 
escort  some  ladies  who  were  returning  to 
the  United  States.  Of  one  of  these  he 
wrote  to  Congress,  saying  : — 

"We  left  Mrs.  Walker  and  her  hus- 
band at  Albany.  They  took  such 
liberties  in  taunting  us  at  our  conduct  in 
Canada  that  it  came  almost  to  a  quarrel. 
We  parted  civilly,  but  coldly.  I  think 
they  both  have  an  excellent  talent  for 
making  enemies,  and  I  believe  where 
they  live  they  will  never  be  long  without 
them  !  " 

Charles  Carroll,  who  was  associated 
with  Franklin  in  trying  to  obtain  the 
concurrence  of  the  Canadians  in  revolt, 
was  of  a  family  which  had  always  stood 
at  the  head  of  the  colonial  aristocracy, 
and  which  had  owned  the  most  ample 
estate  in  the  country.  His  character 
was  mild  and  pleasing,  his  deportment 
correct  and  faultless.  By  his  eloquence 
everyone  was  charmed,  and  many  were 
persuaded,  but  even  his  great  and  subtle 
powers  in  argument  were  abortive  here. 
Through  his  daughter,  Polly  Carroll,  he 


TEE  CONTINENTAL  ARMY  IN  CANADA.      177 

became  associated  afterwards  with  the 
most  dignified  circles  of  the  British  aris- 
tocracy. In  the  year  1809  two  of  his 
grand-daughters  were  celebrated  beauties 
in  the  most  exclusive  social  circles  of 
Washington  and  Baltimore.  The  eldest, 
during  a  tour  with  her  husband  through 
Europe,  formed  a  warm  friendship  with 
Sir  Arthur  Wellesley,  afterwards  the 
great  Duke  of  Wellington.  On  becom- 
ing a  widow  and  returning  to  London^ 
he  introduced  her  to  his  elder  brother, 
the  Marquis  of  Wellesley,  whose  wife 
she  subsequently  became.  Her  younger 
sister  married  Colonel  Hervey,  who  acted 
as  aide-de-camp  to  the  hero  of  Waterloo 
on  that  momentous  occasion.  This 
family,  therefore,  was  closely  identified 
with  that  great  struggle  between  the  two 
nations  who  had  fought  on  Canadian  soil 
a  few  years  before  Carroll  set  foot  upon 
it. 

During  the  first  Presidential  court, 
many  distinguished  Frenchmen  came  to 
America  ;  some  in  official  capacities, 
others  from  curiosity,  and  many  were 


178  FRENCH  CANADA. 

driven  into  forced  or  voluntary  exile  by 
the  French  Revolution.  Among  these 
were  M.  de  Talleyrand,  the  exiled  Bishop 
of  Autun,  the  Duke  de  Liancourt,  the 
Duke  de  la  Rochefoucauld,  Louis  Phi- 
lippe d'Orleans  and  his  two  brothers, 
the  Duke  de  Montpensier  and  the  Count 
de  Beaujolais. 

Louis  Philippe  lodged  in  a  single  room 
over  a  barber's  shop  in  Philadelphia. 
On  one  occasion,  when  entertaining  some 
friends  at  dinner,  he  apologized  with  a 
courtly  grace  for  seating  one-half  his 
guests  on  the  side  of  a  bed,  saying  he 
had  himself  occupied  less  comfortable 
places  without  the  consolation  of  an 
agreeable  company. 

The  exiled  Prince  fell  in  love  with  the 
beautiful  Miss  Bingham,  the  reigning 
belle  of  the  city.  On  her  royal  suitor's 
asking  her  fair  hand  from  her  father,  the 
American  citizen  declined  the  alliance 
with  the  French  Prince,  saying  to  him  :— 
"  Should  you  ever  be  restored  to  your 
hereditary  position  you  will  be  too  great 
a  match  for  her  ;  if  not,  she  is  too  great 
a  match  for  you." 


THE  CONTINENTAL  ARMY  IN  CANADA.       179 

One  year  from  the  fall  of  Montgomery, 
the  event  was  celebrated  by  special  re- 
ligious services  and  social  functions  in 
Quebec,  the  city  he  had  never  succeeded 
in  entering.  "  At  nine  o'clock  grand 
mass  was  celebrated  by  the  Bishop  in  the 
Cathedral.  On  this  occasion  those  who 
had  shown  sympathy  with  the  Congress 
troops  had  to  perform  public  penance. 
The  officers  of  the  garrison  and  the 
militia, 'with  the  British  inhabitants,  met 


180  FRENCH  CANADA. 

at  10  o'clock,  waited  upon  Carleton,  and 
then  proceeded  to  the  English  Church. 
After  the  service  a  parade  took  place 
when  a  feu  de  joie  was  fired.  Carleton 
himself  gave  a  dinner  to  sixty  people,  and 
a  public  fete  was  given  at  seven  o'clock, 
which  ended  with  a  ball." 

About  fifty  years  later,  at  Montgomery 
Place,  on  the  banks  of  the  Hudson,  an 
aged  face,  with  eyes  dimmed  with  the 
tears  of  long  years  of  waiting,  looked 
sadly  at  the  vessel  that  was  bringing 
back  to  her  the  dust  of  her  young 
soldier  husband,  which  had  so  long 
lain  in  the  gorge,  near  the  fatal  bas- 
tion. Forty-three  years  before,  he  had 
buckled  on  his  sword  to  fight  for 
what  he  considered  a  righteous  cause,  at 
the  command  of  his  leader,  Washington. 
Expecting  a  speedy  return,  he  marched 
away  as  she  listened  to  the  drum  beats 
growing  fainter  and  fainter  in  the  dis- 
tance, and,  after  half  a  century  had 
passed,  he  was  still  to  her  the  young 
soldier  in  his  brave,  blue  coat,  who  had 
kissed  her  for  that  long  farewell.  All 


THE  CONTINENTAL  ARMY  IN  CANADA.     181 

that  is  left  on  Canadian  soil  to  recall  this 
gallant  though  luckless  soldier  is  the 
low-ceiled  cottage  where  his  body  was 
laid  out,  a  small  tablet  on  the  precipice, 
which  reads,  "  Here  Montgomery  fell, 
1775,"  and  another  of  white  marble,  in 
the  courtyard  of  the  military  prison  in 
the  Citadel,  recently  erected  by  two 
patriotic  American  girls  in  memory  of 
the  volunteers  who  fell  with  him. 

One  hundred   New  Year's   Eves  came 
and  passed    away,    and,    on    Dec.    3ist, 

1875, 

"  There  was  a  sound  of  revelry  by  night, 

And  Canada's  Capital  had  gathered  there 
Her  beauty  and  her  chivalry,  and  bright 

The  lamps  shone  o'er  fair  women  and  brave 
men." 

It  was  with  no  desire  to  re-kindle  the 
rancours  and  strifes  of  that  distant  period, 
but  to  properly  celebrate  an  event  of 
such  importance,  and  commemorate  that 
night  of  blustering  storm,  gallant  attack 
and  sore  defeat  a  century  before,  that  the 
Centennial  Montgomery  Ball  was  given. 
Soldiers  and  citizens,  in  the  costumes  of 
1775,  some  in  the  identical  dress  worn 


182  FRENCH  C 'AH AD  A. 

by  their  ancestors  in  that  memorable  re- 
pulse ;  and  the  ladies  in  toilettes  of  the 
same  period,  received  their  guests  as  they 
entered  the  ball-room,  the  approaches  to 
which  were  tastefully  decorated.  uHalf 
way  between  the  dancing  and  receiving 
rooms  was  a  grand,  double  staircase,  the 
sides  of  which  were  draped  with  the 
white  and  golden  lilies  of  France,  our 
Dominion  Ensign,  and  the  Stars  and 
Stripes  of  the  neighbouring  Republic. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  broad  steps  were 
stacks  of  arms  and  warlike  implements. 
Facing  the  guests  as  they  ascended  the 
stairs,  among  the  huge  banners  which 
fell  gracefully  about  the  dark  musketry, 
and  parted  to  right  and  left  above  the 
drums  and  trumpets,  there  hung  from 
the  centre  a  red  and  black  pennant — the 
American  colours  of  1775.  Immediately 
underneath  was  the  escutcheon  of  the 
United  States,  on  which,  heavily  craped, 
was  suspended  the  hero's  sword — the 
weapon  by  which,  one  hundred  years 
before,  the  dead,  but  honoured  and 
revered  hero  had  beckoned  on  his  men, 


THE  CONTINENTAL  ARMY  IN  CANADA.      183 

and  which  only  left   his    hand    when  he 
like  'a  soldier  fell.' 

"  Underneath  the  kindly  tribute  to  the 
dead  General  were  the  solemn  prayerful 
initials  of  Requiescat  in  Pace. 

"  At  the  foot  of  the  trophy  were  piled 
two  sets  of  old  flint-lock  muskets  and 
accoutrements,  and  in  the  centre  a  brass 
cannon,  which  was  captured  from  the 
Americans  in  1775,  and  which  bore  the 
'  Lone  Star  '  and  the  figure  of  an  Indian 
— the  Arms  of  the  State  of  Massachu- 
setts. This  military  tableau  vividly  re- 
called the  troublous  times  of  long  ago, 
and  spoke  of  the  patience  and  pluck,  the 
bravery  and  sturdy  manhood  of  a  bygone 
century. 

"  On  the  stroke  of  the  hour  of  midnight, 
the  clear,  clarion  notes  of  a  trumpet 
thrilled  all  hearts  present.  A  panel  in 
the  wainscotting  of  the  lower  dancing- 
room  flew  open  as  if  by  magic,  and  out 
jumped  a  jaunty  little  trumpeter  with  a 
slashed  and  decorated  jacket  and  the 
busby  of  a  hussar.  The  blast  he  blew 
rang  in  tingling  echoes  far  and  wide,  and 


184  FRENCH  CANADA. 

a  second  later  the  weird  piping  and 
drumming  of  an  unfamiliar  music  were 
heard  in  a  remote  part  of  the  barracks. 

"  Nearer  and  nearer  every  moment 
came  the  sharp  shrill  notes  of  the  fifes  and 
the  quick  detonation  of  the  drum-stick 
taps.  The  rattle  of  the  drums  came  closer 
and  closer,  when  two  folding-doors  open- 
ed, and  through  them  stalked  in  grim 
solemnity  the  '  Phantom  Guard,'  led  by 
the  intrepid  Sergeant  Hugh  McQuarters. 

"Regardless  of  the  festive  decorations 
and  the  bright  faces  around  them,  the 
'  Guard  '  passed  through  the  assembly 
as  if  they  were  not.  On  through  salon 
and  passage — past  ball-room  and  conver- 
sation parlor — they  glided  with  measured 
step,  and  halting  in  front  of  the  '  Mont- 
gomery Trophy,'  paid  military  honours 
to  the  memento  of  a  hero's  valiant,  if  un- 
successful act.  Upon  their  taking  close 
order,  the  Bombardier,  who  personated 
the  dead  Sergeant,  and  who  actually 
wore  the  blood-stained  sword-belt  of  a 
man  who  was  killed  in  the  action  com- 
memorated, advanced  and  delivered  an 


THE  CONTINENTAL  ARMJ  IN  CANADA.     185 

address  to  the  Commander  of  the  Quebec 
Garrison,  of  which  the  concluding  words 
were  :— 

1  We  ask  of  you  to  pay  us  now  one  tribute, 
By  firing  from  these  heights  one  last  salute/ 

"  The  grave,  sonorous  words  of  the 
martial  request  were  hardly  uttered,  ere 
through  the  darkness  of  the  night  the 
great  cannon  boomed, — a  soldier's  wel- 
come and  a  brave  man's  requiem, — which 
caused  women's  hearts  to  throb  and  men's 
to  beatexultingly."  While  the  whole  air 
trembled  with  the  sullen  reverberations, 
which  echoed  from  crag  to  crag,  the 
glare  of  rockets  lit  up  the  path  of  Pres- 
de-Ville,  as  the  signal  lights  had  done 
one  hundred  winters  before. 

At  the  suggestion  of  the  American 
Consul,  the  old  house  on  St.  Louis 
street,  in  which  the  body  of  Montgomery 
was  laid  out  January  ist,  1776,  was 
decorated  with  the  American  flag,  and 
brilliantly  illuminated,  in  honour  of  him 
who  had  so  nobly  tried  to  do  what  he 
considered  his  duty. 

And  thus  the  years  of  the  century,  as 


186  FRENCH  CANADA. 

they  rolled  around,  have  in  a  great 
measure  smoothed  away  the  animosities 
which  marked  those  days  that  tried  men's 
souls,  when  the  sons  of  those  who  had 
played  around  the  same  old  English 
hearths  fought  to  the  death  for  liberty  or 
loyalty.  That  the  angry  strifes  are  for- 
gotten, leaving  only  the  memory  of  the 
bravery  which  distinguished  the  star 
actors  in  the  great  drama,  needs  no  fur- 
ther proof  than  can  be  found  on  a  green 
hill  near  the  Palisades,  in  the  State  of 
New  York,  where  one  hundred  and 
twenty  years  ago  a  warm  young  heart, 
beating  beneath  the  soldier's  red  coat, 
was  stilled  by  American  justice.  The 
granite  shaft  on  the  spot  tells  its  sad  and 
sombre  story  :— 

Here  died,  October  2nd,  1780, 

Major  John  Andre",  of  the  British  Army,  who,  enter- 
ing the  American  lines  on  a  Secret  Mission  to 
Benedict  Arnold  for  the  Surrender  of 
West  Point,  was  taken  prisoner, 
tried  and  condemned 

as  a  spy. 

His  death,  though  according  to  the  stern  code   of 

war,  moved  even  his  enemies  to  pity,  and 

both  armies  mourned  the  fate  of 

one  so  young  and  so  brave. 

In  1821  his  remains  were  removed  to 

Westminster  Abbey. 


THE  CONTINENTAL  ARMY  IN  CANADA.    187 

A  hundred  years  after  his  execution  this   stone  was 
placed  above  the  spot  where  he  lay,  by  a  citizen  of 
the  States  against  which  he  fought ;  not  to  per- 
petuate a  record  of  strife,  but  in  token  of  those 
better  feelings  which  have  since  united 
two  nations,  one  in  race,  in   lan- 
guage and  religion,    with 
the  earnest  hope  that 
this  friendly  union 
will  never  be 
broken. 

"  He  was  more   unfortunate  than  criminal, 
An  accomplished  man  and  a  gallant  officer." 

— George  Washington. 

An  American  visitor  to  Quebec  was 
recently  shown  the  cannon  used  in  the 
trophy,  which  the  British  Corporal 
proudly  explained  had  been  taken  at 
Bunker  Hill. 

"Ah!  yes,  friend,"  the  stranger  re- 
plied, "  you  have  the  cannon,  but  we 
have  the  hill." 

On  the  top  of  the  monument,  near 
Boston,  which  marks  the  spot  on  which 
this  battle  took  place,  are  two  guns  simi- 
lar to  this  one,  the  inscription  on  which 
corroborates  the  soldier's  statement  ;  it 
reads  : — 


188  FRENCH  CANADA. 

"  Sacred  to  Liberty." 

This  is  one  of  the  four  cannon  which  con- 
stituted the  whole  train  of  field 
artillery  possessed  by 
the  British  Col- 
onies of 
North  America, 
at  the  commencement  of  the 

War 

on  the  i  Qth  of  April,  1775. 

This  cannon  and  its  fellow  belonged  to 

a  number  of  citizens  of 

Boston. 

The  other  two,  the  property  of  the  Government 
of  Massachusetts,  were  taken  by  the  enemy. 


With  the  failure  of  the  American  ex- 
pedition, and  the  return  of  the  British 
troops  to  Montreal,  the  Chateau  again 
became  Government  headquarters  and 
was  called  Government  House. 


THE  CONTINENTAL  ARMY  IN  CANADA.     189 

When  internal  and  international  tran- 
quillity were  completely  restored,  and  the 
people  were  permitted  to  return  to  their 
ordinary  avocations  of  life,  Sir  Guy  Car- 
leton  established  himself  at  Quebec  with 
his  wife,  the  Lady  Maria,  and  their  three 
children,  one  of  whom  had  been  born  in 
Canada.  She  had  joined  him  at  Mon- 
treal, being  the  bearer  of  the  decoration 
of  the  Order  of  the  Bath,  which  she  had 
received  from  the  hands  of  the  King  to 
present  to  her  husband.  Sir  Guy  Carle- 
ton  or  Lord  Dorchester  was  one  of  those 
men  "  who,  during  a  long  and  varied 
public  life,  lived  so  utterly  irreproach- 
ably, that  his  memory  remains  unstained 
by  the  charge  of  any  semblance  of  a 
vice." 

On  the  occasion  of  his  last  appearance 
in  an  official  character  he  arrived  to  make 
his  final  inspection  of  the  troops.  After 
general  parade  the  officers  waited  upon 
him  to  pay  their  last  respects  to  one  who 
had  been  the  bulwark  of  Canada  through 
her  greatest  vicissitudes.  The  leave- 
taking  of  their  old  General,  whom  they 
12 


190 


FRENCH  CANADA. 


never  expected  to  see  again,  was  marked 
by  the  deepest  feelings  of  regard  and 
regret.  His  connection  with  Canadian 
history  covered  a  period  marked  by 
events  of  a  nature  the  most  critical,  the 
results  of  which  will  colour  the  entire 
future  of  the  Dominion. 

Between  the  years  eighteen  thirty- 
seven  and  forty,  when  Canada  was  torn 
by  internal  rebellion,  the  Earl  of  Elgin, 
who  was  then  Governor-General,  drove 


THE  CONTINENTAL  ARM7  IN  CANADA.       191 

in  hot  haste  to  the  Chateau,  where  had 
sat  the  special  council  during  the  sus- 
pension of  the  Constitution.  After  giv- 
ing the  Queen's  sanction  to  what  was 
called  by  a  certain  party  "  The  Rebel 
Indemnity  Bill,"  he  rushed  into  one  door 
and  out  of  another,  when  this  Peer  of  the 
Realm,  in  all  the  dignity  of  coach  and 
four,  postillions  and  outriders,  was  pelted 
with  rotten  eggs  and  other  unpleasant 
missiles.  Then,  in  the  dark  of  night,  at 
the  instance  of  some  so-called  politicians, 
the  mob  moved  on  to  the  Parliament 
buildings,  and,  most  unfortunately  for 
Montreal,  deliberately  set  them  on  fire  ; 
which  act  resulted  ultimately  in  the  re- 
moval of  the  seat  of  government  to 
Ottawa  and  the  decline  of  the  glory  of 
the  old  Chateau. 


THE   FUR  KINGS. 


IT    was  to  the   French  explorers  whose 
names    stand    "  conspicuous    on    the 
pages    of  half-savage   romance," 


and    to 


their  successors  the  Scotch  fur-kings,  that 
we  owe  much  of  the  geographical  know- 
ledge of  the  northern  part  of  the  Con- 
tinent. There  is  some  uncertainty  as  to 
who  was  the  discoverer  of  the  Mackenzie 
River,  which  carries  its  waters  to  the  ice- 


William  Alexander 


THE  FUR  KINGS.  193 

fields  of  Polar  seas,  but  it  bears  the  name 
of  one  claimant  to  the  distinction,  Sir 
Alexander  Mackenzie. 

Of  the  other  waterways  of  the  region 
much  valuable  information  was  obtained 
by  Alexander  Henry  in  his  intercourse 
with  the  native  tribes.  To  Sir  William 
Alexander  was  given  the  honour  of  being 
the  first  Scotchman  to  cross  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  Like  his  fellow  countrymen, 
he  was  distinguished  by  the  same  charac- 
teristics which  made  their  fathers  in  tar- 
tan and  kilt  foemen  "  worthy  of  any 
man's  steel,"  and  themselves  fit  succes- 
sors of  the  bearers  of  such  honourable 
names  as  duLuth,  Joliet  and  de  La 
Verandrye.  A  few  rods  from  the  gate  of 
the  Chateau  de  Ramezay  is  a  tall  ware- 
house which  bears  on  its  peaked  gable 
the  date  1793.  It  was  in  this  old  build- 
ing that  the  early  business  years  of  John 
Jacob  Astor,  the  New  York  millionaire, 
were  spent.  It  was  the  property  of  the 
North-West  Fur  Company,  which  was 
the  centre  of  so  much  that  was  romantic 
and  captivating.  This  Company  was  an 


194  FRENCH  CANADA. 

association  of  Scottish  and  Canadian  mer- 
chants, who,  in  the  political  changes  which 
had  taken  place,  had  supplanted  those 
purely  French.  In  energy  and  enterprise 
they  did  not  exceed  their  predecessors, 
but  had  more  capital  and  influence  at 
their  command. 

In  consequence  of  their  more  lavish 
measures,  they  were  called  the  "  Lordly 
Nor'  Westers.  Full  justice  has  been  done 
them  by  the  pen  of  Washington  Irving, 
who,  in  writing  the  tale  of  "  Astoria,"  that 
Northwestern  "  Utopia,"  so  splendid  in  its 
conception,  but  so  lamentable  in  its  failure, 
became  familiar  with  their  life  in  all  its 
phases.  He  says : — "  To  behold  the 
North-West  Company  in  all  its  grandeur 
it  was  necessary  to  witness  the  annual 
gathering  at  Fort  William.  On  these 
occasions  might  be  seen  the  change  since 
the  unceremonious  time  of  the  old  French 
traders,  with  their  roystering  coureurs  des 
bois  and  vcyageurs  gaily  returning  from 
their  adventurous  trading  in  the  pathless 
regions  of  the  West.  Then  the  aristo- 
cratic character  of  the  Briton,  or  rather 


THE  FUR  KINGS.  195 

the  feudal  spirit  of  the  Highlander,  shone 
out  magnificently.  Every  partner  who 
had  charge  of  an  inferior  post  felt  like  the 
chieftain  of  a  Highland  clan.  To  him  a 
visit  to  the  grand  conference  at  Fort 
William  was  a  most  important  event,  and 
he  repaired  thither  as  to  a  meeting  of 
Parliament.  The)r  were  wrapped  in  rich 
furs,  their  huge  canoes  being  freighted 
with  every  luxury  and  convenience.  The 
partners  at  Montreal  were  the  lords  of 
these  occasions,  as  they  ascended  the 
river,  like  sovereigns  making  a  progress. 
At  Fort  William  an  immense  wooden 
building  was  the  council  chamber  and  also 
the  banqueting  hall,  decorated  with  Indian 
arms  and  accoutrements,  and  with  trophies 
of  the  fur  trade.  The  great  and  mighty 
councils  alternated  with  feasts  and 
revels."  These  old  days  of  primitive 
bartering  are  gone  forever  from  the  St. 
Lawrence,  but  to-day  as  it  flows  in 
majesty  to  the  ocean,  carrying  with  it 
one-third  of  the  fresh  water  of  the  world, 
it  is  a  great  highway  for  the  commerce 
of  the  globe. 


196  FRENCH  CANADA. 

The  University  of  McGill  stands  on 
what  was  once,  in  part,  the  ancient  vil- 
lage of  Hochelaga,  which  was  visited  by 
Jacques  Cartier,  and  was  later  the  domain 
belonging  to  old  "  Burnside  Hall."  Its 
cheerful  fire  many  a  time  shone  out  under 
the  shadow  of  Mount  Royal,  when  were 
gathered  around  its  board  Simon  Mc- 
Tavish,  Duncan  McGillivray,  Sir  John 
Franklin  and  Joseph  Frobisher.  With 
them  was  frequently  seen  Thomas 
Douglas,  Earl  of  Selkirk,  who  formulated 
the  scheme  of  populating  the  prairies  of 
the  North- West  with  poverty-stricken  and 
down-trodden  tenants  from  older  lands, 
many  of  whom  lie  in  the  old  grave-yard  of 
the  Kildonan  settlement  on  the  Red  River 
of  the  North,  a  few  miles  from  the  City 
of  Winnipeg.  Their  descendants  with 
their  Scotch  thrift  form  the  backbone  of 
that  progressive  province  of  such  magnifi- 
cent possibilities.  Their  weary  journeys 
overland,  toilsome  portages  and  struggles 
with  want  and  isolation  are  now  mere 
matters  of  history,  for  the  overflow  popu- 
lation of  the  crowded  centres  of  Europe 


THE  FUR  KINGS.  197 

are  carried  in  a  few  days  from  sea  to 
sea  with  every  possible  convenience  and 
even  luxury.  The  great  Canadian  trans- 
continental line  has  spanned  the  valleys 
and  crossed  the  mountains,  literally  open- 
ing up  a  highway  for  the  thousands  who 
from  the  ends  of  the  earth  are  yearly 
crowding  into  these  vast  fertile  plains  and 
sub-arctic  gold  fields. 

Franklin  lies  in  an  unknown  grave 
among  Northern  snows,  lost  in  his 
attempt,  at  the  age  of  sixty,  to  find  the 
North  Pole.  He  was  last  seen  moored  to 
an  iceberg  in  Baffin's  Bay,  apparently  wait- 
ing for  a  favourable  opportunity  to  begin 
work  in  what  is  known  as  the  Middle  Sea. 
The  problem  of  his  fate  long  baffled  dis- 
covery, although  many  an  earnest  searching 
party,  in  the  Polar  twilight,  has  sought  him 
in  that  region  of  ice  and  snow,  in  a  silence 
broken  only  by  the  howl  of  the  arctic 
blast,  the  scream  of  sea-fowl  or  the 
thundering  report  of  an  ice-floe  breaking 
away  from  the  mainland. 

One  party  sent  out  by  the  Hudson  Bay 
Co.  in  1853  found  traces  of  the  expedition 


198 


FRENCH  CANADA. 


in  some  bits  of  metal  and  a  silver  plate 
engraved  with  the  name  Franklin.  An- 
other, fitted  out  partly  by  Lady  Franklin, 
and  partly  by  public  subscription,  and 
commanded  by  McClintock,  afterwards 
Sir  Leopold  McClintock,  learned  from  an 
Eskimo  woman  that  she  had  heard  of  a 
party  of  men,  whom  it  was  said  "fell 
down  and  died  as  they  walked."  With 
the  exception  of  these  faint  traces,  their 
fate  is  still  wrapped  in  obscurity. 


INTERESTING  SITES. 

T7JEW  visitors  to  the  city,  as  the  Palace 
P5  cars  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway 
carry  them  into  the  mammoth  station 
on  Dalhousie  Square,  realize  the  historic 
associations  which  cling  around  this  spot. 
In  the  magnificently  equipped  dining-room 
of  the  Company's  Hotel,  as  delicacies 
from  the  most  distant  parts  of  the  earth 
are  laid  before  the  traveller,  he  should  call 
to  remembrance  the  lives  of  deprivation 
and  uncomplaining  endurance  which  have 
made  the  ground  now  crowned  by  the 
beautiful  edifice  full  of  the  most  tragic 
interest,  and  filled  with  memories  which 
will  be  immortal  as  long  as  courage  and 
stout-heartedness  are  honoured. 

Two  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago  the 
sound  of  hammer  and  saw  here  awoke  the 
echoes  of  the  forest.  Workmen  who  had 
learned  their  craft  in  old  French  towns, 
when  Colbert,  the  great  statesman  and 
financier,  was  developing  the  architecture 


200  FRENCH  CANADA. 

and  industries,  revenues  and  resources  of 
the  kingdom,  here  reared  a  wind-mill,  the 
first  industrial  building  in  Montreal. 

The  winds  of  those  autumns  long  ago 
turned  the  fans  and  ground  the  seed  of 
harvests  toilsomely  gathered  from  corn- 
fields, among  whose  furrows  many  a  time 
the  arrow  and  tomahawk  spilt  the  blood 
of  reaper  and  sower.  The  old  mill  with 
its  pastoral  associations  of  peaceful  toil 
in  time  passed  away,  and  was  succeeded 
by  a  structure  dedicated  to  the  art  of 
war,  for  on  the  same  spot  stood  la  Cita- 
delle*  This  stronghold,  though  primitive 
in  its  appointments,  was  important  during 
the  French  occupation  and  evacuation  of 
New  France,  being  the  last  fortification 
held  by  French  troops  on  Canadian  soil. 

This  old  earthen  Citadel,  a  relic  of 
mediaeval  defence,  was,  about  seventy 
years  ago,  removed,  its  material  being 
used  in  the  leveling  and  enlargement  of 
the  Parade  Ground,  or,  as  it  is  called,  the 
"  Champ-de-Mars?  Its  demolition  might 
be  regretted  were  it  not  that  in  an  age 
of  progress  even  sentiment  must  give  way 


INTERESTING    8ITES.  201 

before  advance.  The  grand  Hotel  Viger, 
although  built  to  promote  the  comfort  of 
the  people  of  the  Dominion,  has  not 
destroyed  the  pathetic  interest  of  the  early 
struggles  and  heroism  which  still  clothes 
its  site,  and  which  heightens  the  present 
appreciation  of  a  civilization  of  which  the 
old  mill  and  fort  were  the  pioneers. 

The  hospitable  hearth  of  James  McGill, 
graced  by  his  noble-minded  French-Cana- 
dian wife,  has  also  long  since  disappeared  ; 
but  through  his  endowment,  and  the 
prince-like  gifts  of  William  Molson,  Peter 
Redpath,  Lord  Strathcona  and  Mount 
Royal,  Sir  Wm.  Macdonald  and  many 
others,  the  torch  of  education  has  been 
lighted  here,  which  shall  shine  a  beacon 
for  ages  to  come.  Although  but  three- 
quarters  of  a  century  old,  yet  the  Univer- 
sity of  McGill  compares  favourably  with 
older  institutions,  its  Mining  Building 
being  the  most  perfectly  fitted  up  in  the 
world.  Its  sons  take  rank  with  the  most 
cultured  minds  in  Europe  and  America, 
influencing  to  a  most  marked  degree  the 
educational  thought  of  the  day. 


202  FRENCH  CANADA. 

The  year  1896  marked  an  epoch  in  its 
history,  when  a  graduate  of  the  class  of 
'68  was  elected  to  the  Presidency  of  the 
British  Medical  Association,  one  of  the 
most  august  and  learned  corporations  in 
the  world.  In  calling  a  Canadian.  Dr.  T. 
G.  Roddick,  M.P.,  to  this  eminent  posi- 
tion, a  signal  honour  was  conferred,  it 
being  the  first  time  the  office  was  held  by 
a  Colonial  member.  Thirty-five  years 
ago.  a  French- Canadian  youth,  slight  in 
form,  with  broad  brow  and  eyes  full  of 
deep  thoughtfulness,  stood  before  the 
Faculty  and  friends  as  the  valedictorian 
of  his  class.  That  slender  boy  is  to-day 
the  great  Canadian  Premier,  Sir  Wilfrid 
Laurier,  the  eloquent  Statesman  and  the 
honoured  of  Her  Majesty  the  Queen. 


FAMOUS  NAMES. 


/)  ^  ^^ 
^ 


ONSPICUOUS  among 
the  portraits  of  soldiers, 
heroes  and  navigators 
which  adorn  the  walls 
of  the  different  rooms  of 
the  Chateau,  is  one,  a 
faU  s*ze  painting  of  an 
old  Highland  Chief,  a 
veritable  Rhoderick  Dhu,  in  Scotch  bonnet 
and  dirk,  who,  with  the  call  of  his  clan,  and 
the  pipes  playing  the  airs  of  his  native 
glen,  led  the  charge  of  Bunker  Hill.  He 
was  Sir  John  Small,  who  came  to  Canada 
with  his  regiment,  the  famous  u  Biack 
Watch,"  and  served  under  Abercrombie 
in  the  battle  of  Carillon.  One  of  his 


204  FRENCH  CANADA. 

descendants,  visiting  Boston  early  in  the 
century,  found  on  the  walls  of  a  museum, 
and  where  it  may  still  be  seen,  a  paint- 
ing of  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill  with 
General  Small  on  his  white  horse,  rally- 
ing his  men  to  the  attack.  It  was  to  the 
credit  of  the  successors  of  those  who 
fought  that  day,  although  only  thirty  or 
forty  years  had  elapsed  since  their  fore- 
fathers had  met  in  mortal  combat,  that  the 
most  gentle  courtesy  and  kindness  were 
shown  on  both  sides  by  their  descendants. 

A  fine  picture  of  a  full-blooded  Indian 
is  that  of  Brant,  the  great  Mohawk  Chief, 
an  ally  of  the  English  and  a  cruel  and 
ruthless  foe ;  on  one  occasion  having,  it  is 
said,  slain  with  his  own  hand,  forty-four  of 
his  enemies.  Other  portraits  of  Jacques 
Cartier,  Champlain,  Vaudreuil,  Montcalm, 
deLevis,  Dorchester,  deSalaberry  and 
Murray  are  also  there  to  be  seen  and 
admired. 

Many  of  the  streets  of  Montreal,  such 
as  Dorchester,  Sherbrooke,  Wolfe,  d'You- 
ville,  Jacques  Cartier,  Guy,  Amherst, 
Murray,  Vaudreuil,  de  Lagauchetiere, 


FAMOUS    NAMES. 


205 


Olier,  Mance,  Longueuil,  and  others 
equally  well  named,  will  carry  down  to 
future  generations  the  memory  of  those 
who  were  prominent  in  the  making  and 
moulding  of  Canada.  It  is  strange  that 
one  of  the  most  insignificant  streets  in  the 
city,  a  mere  lane,  of  a  single  block  in 


British'Leader  in  the  Battle  of  Bunker  Hill. 


13 


206  FRENCH  CANADA. 

length,  should  bear  the  name  of  Bollard, 
the  hero  of  one  of  the  most  illustrious 
deeds  recorded  in  history,  an  event  which 
has  rightly  been  called  the  Thermopylae 
of  Canada.  The  facts  were  as  follows  : — 
In  1660  the  Colony  was  on  the  eve  of 
extinction  by  the  Iroquois,  the  whole  of  the 
tribes  being  on  the  war-path  with  the  in- 
tention of  sweeping  the  French  from  the 
St.  Lawrence.  Dollard  des  Ormeaux  and 
sixteen  young  men  of  Montreal  deter- 
mined upon  a  deed  which  should  teach  the 
savages  a  lesson.  They  bound  them- 
selves by  an  oath  neither  to  give  nor 
take  quarter.  They  made  their  wills  and 
took  the  sacrament  in  the  Chapel  of 
the  H6tel-DwUy  and  then  started  up  Lake 
St.  Louis.  They  were  not  accustomed  to 
the  management  of  the  frail  canoes  of 
bark,  and  day  after  day  struggled  to 
pass  the  currents  of  St.  Anne's,  at  the 
head  of  the  island,  where  now  the  pleasure 
yacht  spreads  its  white  sails  to  the  breezes 
of  summer,  and  on  whose  shores  the 
huntsmen  and  hounds  gaily  gallop  when  in 
the  woods  of  autumn  the  leaves  turn 


FAMOUS   NAMES.  207 

crimson  and  gold  under  the  mellow 
hunter's  moon.  At  last,  after  a  week  had 
been  thus  spent,  they  entered  the  Ottawa 
River,  proceeding  by  the  shores  until  they 
descried  the  remains  of  a  rough  palisaded 
fort  surrounded  by  a  small  clearing.  It 
was  only  a  circle  enclosed  by  trunks  of 
trees,  but  here  they  "  made  their  fire  and 
slung  their  kettles.  Being  soon  joined  by 
some  friendly  Hurons  and  Algonquins 
they  bivouacked  together.  Morning,  noon 
and  night  they  prayed,  and  when  at  sun- 
set the  long  reaches  of  forest  on  the 
opposite  shore  basked  peacefully  in  the 
level  rays,  the  rapids  joined  their  hoarse 
music  to  the  notes  of  their  evening  hymn." 
As  their  young  voices  floated  through  the 
forest  glades,  and  they  lay  down  to  sleep 
under  the  stars  of  the  sweet  May  skies,  they 
thought  of  the  bells  tinkling  in  the  still  air 
of  their  loved  ViUe-Marie^  where  those  they 
had  come  to  die  for  sent  up  for  them  Aves 
around  hearth  and  altar.  In  the  words  of 
a  Canadian  poet,  it  is  thus  described  : — 

"  Beside  the  dark  Uttawa's  stream,  two  hundred 
years  ago, 


208  FRENCH  CANADA. 

A  wondrous    feat  of  arms  was  wrought,  which 

all  the  world  should  know. 
'Tis    hard     to    read    with    tearless    eyes     this 
record  of  the  past, 

It  stirs  our  blood,  and  fires  our  souls,  as  with 
a  clarion  blast. 

What,  though     beside   the  foaming  flood    un- 
tombed  their  ashes  lie, — 

All  earth  becomes  the  monument  of  men  who 
nobly  die. 

Daulac,  the  Captain  of  the  Fort,  in  manhood's 
fiery  prime 

Hath  sworn  by  some  immortal  deed  to  make 
his  name   sublime, 

And  sixteen  soldiers   of  the  Cross,  his    com- 
rades true  and  tried, 

Have  pledged  their  faith  for  life  or  death,  all 
kneeling  side  by  side. 

And  this  their  oath,  on  flood  or  field,  to  chal- 
lenge face  to  face 

The  ruthless  hordes  of  Iroquois, — the  scourges 
of  their  race. 

No  quarter  to  accept  nor  grant,  and  loyal  to 
the  grave. 

To  die  like  martyrs  for  the  land  they'd  shed 
their  blood  to  save. 

And    now    these    self-devoted     youths    from 
weeping  friends  have  passed, 


FAMOUS   NAMES.  209 

And  on  the  Fort  of  Ville-Marie  each  fondly 

looks  his  last. 
Soft  was  the  balmy  air  of  spring   in  that  fair 

month  of  May, 
The  wild    flowers    bloomed,  the    spring    birds 

sang  on  many  a  budding  spray, 
When  loud  and  high  a    thrilling  cry  dispelled 

the  magic  charm, 
And  scouts  came  hurrying  from  the  woods  to 

bid  their  comrades  arm. 
And   bark  canoes  skimmed  lightly   down    the 

torrent  of  the  Sault, 
Manned    by   three  hundred  dusky  forms,  the 

long-expected  foe. 
Eight    days    of   varied    horrors    passed,    what 

boots  it  now  to  tell 
How  the  pale  tenants  of   the   fort   heroically 

fell  ? 
Hunger    and  thirst  and  sleeplessness,    Death's 

ghastly  aids,  at  length. 
Marred  and  defaced  their   comely  forms,  and 

quelled  their  giant  strength. 
The  end  draws  nigh, — they  yearn  to  die — one 

glorious  rally  more 
For  the  sake  of  Ville-Marie,  and  all  will  soon 

be  o'er. 
Sure  of  the  martyr's  golden  crown,  they  shrink 

not  from  the  Cross ; 


210  FRENCH   CANADA. 

Life^yielded  for  the  land  they  love,  they  scorn 

to  reckon  loss. 
The  fort  is  fired,  and  through  the  flame,  with 

slippery,  splashing  tread, 

The  Redmen  stumble  to  the  camp   o'er  ram- 
parts of  the  dead. 
Then  with  set  teeth  and  nostrils  wide,  Daulac, 

the   dauntless,  stood, 
And    dealt    his    foes    remorseless    blows    'mid 

blinding  smoke  and  blood, 
Till  hacked  and  hewn,  he  reeled  to  earth,  with 

proud,  unconquered  glance, 
Dead — but  immortalized  by  death — Leonidas 

of  France; 
True    to    their    oath,   his  comrade    knights  no 

quarter  basely  craved, — 
So  died  the  peerless   twenty-two — so    Canada 

was  saved. 

The  historian  says  : — "  It  was  the  en- 
thusiasm of  honour,  the  enthusiasm  of 
adventure  and  the  enthusiasm  of  faith. 
Daulac  was  the  Casur-de-Lion  among  the 
forests  and  savages  of  the  New  World." 
The  names  and  occupations  of  the  young 
men  may  still  be  read  in  the  parish  regis- 
ters, the  faded  writing  illumined  by  the 
sanctity  of  martyrdom.  The  "  Lays  of 


FAMOUS    NAMES. 


211 


Rome"  recount  among  her  heroes  none 
of  greater  valour  than  these  by  the  lonely 
rapids  in  the  silence  of  the  Canadian 
forest. 


ECHOES  FROM  THE  PAST. 

\  I  EAR  a  modern  window  in  the  gallery 
(ej  \  leans  an  old  spinning-wheel,  which 
was  found  in  the  vaults.  By  its  hum  in 
winter  twilights,  a  hundred  years  ago,  soft 
lullabies  were  crooned,  and  fine  linen  spun 
for  dainty  brides,  over  whose  forgotten 
graves  the  blossoms  of  a  century  of  sum- 
mers have  fallen.  In  hoop  and  farthingale 
they  tripped  over  the  threshold  of  the 
old  church  of  Notre  Dame  de  Bonsecours. 
They  plighted  their  troth  as  happily  be- 
fore the  altar  of  the  little  chapel,  as  do 
their  descendants  in  the  stately  church  of 
Notre  Dame,  with  the  grand  organ  pealing 
through  the  dim  arches  and  groined  roof. 

The  old,  old  wheel  is  silent,  and  the 
fingers  that  once  held  distaff  and  spindle 
have  crumbled  into  dust,  but  the  noble 
deeds  and  glorious  names  of  those  days 
gone  by  are  carven  deep  in  the  monu- 
ment of  a  grateful  country's  memory. 

Over  an  archway  in  the  picture  gallery 


ECHOES   FROM    THE    PAST.  213 

is  an  enormous  oil  painting,  dark  with  age, 
of  the  British  Coat  of  Arms,  which,  it  is 
whispered,  was  brought  over  hurriedly 
from  New  York  during  the  American 
Revolution. 

The  museum  of  the  Chateau  is  daily 
receiving  donations  of  interesting  relics, 
and  has  already  a  fine  collection  of  coins, 
medals,  old  swords  and  historical  memen- 
toes— some  of  the  autograph  letters  of 
Arnold,  Champlain,  Roberval,  Vaudreuil, 
Amherst,  Carleton,  the  de  Ramezay  family 
and  many  others,  being  of  great  interest. 

These  early  days  have  passed  away  for- 
ever. The  whirr  of  the  spinning-wheel, 
or  shout  of  the  hunter,  no  longer  sound 
along  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  No 
canoe  of  the  painted  warrior  now  glides 
silently  by  the  shore ;  for  Montreal  with 
its  three  thousand  inhabitants  when 
Vaudreuil  beat  his  retreat,  to  its  present 
population  of  300,000,  has  thrown  its 
magnificent  civilization  around  these  spots 
hallowed  by  the  footprints  of  the  great 
men  whose  feet  have  walked  her  ancient 
streets. 


214  FRENCH  CANADA. 

"  She  has  grown  in  her  strength  like  a  Northern 

queen, 
'Neath  her  crown  of  light  and  her  robe  of 

snow, 

And  she  stands  in  her  beauty  fair  between 
The  Royal  Mount  and  the  river  below.''' 

The  two  nationalities  live  harmoni- 
ously side  by  side  in  commercial  and 
social  life,  both  retaining  their  racial  and 
distinctive  characteristics.  The  old  chan- 
sons of  Brittany  are  still  heard  from  the 
hay-carts  and  by  the  firesides,  and  up 
and  down  the  rivers  ring  out  the  same 
songs  as  when  the  "  fleet  of  swift 
canoes  came  up  all  vocal  with  the  songs 
of  voyageurs,  whose  cadence  kept  time 
among  the  dipping  paddles." 

The  Chateau  de  Ramezay  has  suffered 
many  changes  and  modifications  in  the 
various  hands  through  which  it  has 
passed  since  its  foundation  stones  were 
laid,  but  the  citizens  of  Montreal,  rever- 
ing its  age  and  associations,  are  restor- 
ing it  as  much  as  possible  to  its  original 
state  and  appearance  ;  and  the  thousands 
who  yearly  pass  through  it  testify  to  the 


ECHOES    FROM    THE    PAST.  215 

romance  surrounding  the  walls  of  the  old 
Chateau,  Ville  Marie's  grandest  relic  of 
an  illustrious  past — a  past  which  be- 
longs equally  to  both  French  and  British 
subjects,  and  which  has  developed  a 
patriotism  well  expressed  in  the  words  of 
the  eloquent  churchman,  Bruchesi,  Arch- 
bishop of  Montreal,  who  says  :— 

"  I  know  the  countries  so  much 
boasted  of  where  the  myrtles  bloom, 
where  the  birds  are  lighter  on  the  wing, 
and  where  gentler  breezes  blow.  I  have 
passed  quiet  days  on  the  beach  at 
Sorrento,  where  the  Mediterranean  rolls 
its  blue  waves  to  the  foot  of  the  orange 
tree.  I  have  seen  Genoa,  the  superb  and 
radiant  Florence,  and  Venice,  the  Queen 
of  the  Adriatic.  More  than  once  I  have 
gazed  upon  the  beauty  of  Naples  glitter- 
ing with  the  fires  of  the  setting  sun.  I 
have  sailed  upon  the  azure  waves  of 
the  Lake  of  Geneva.  I  have  tasted  the 
charm  of  our  sweet  France.  My  steps 
have  trodden  the  blessed  soil  of  Rome, 
and  I  have  trembled  with  unspeakable 
gladness.  But  all  these  noble  sights,  all 


216  FRENCH  CANADA. 

these  undying  memories,  all  this  sub- 
blime  poetry,  all  these  enchantments  of 
nature  did  not  take  the  place  in  my  heart 
of  Canada,  my  Fatherland,  which  I  have 
never  ceased  to  regard  with  enthusiasm 
and  admiration. 

What  nation  can  boast  of  a  purer  or 
more  glorious  origin  ?  May  the  future 
of  Canada  be  worthy  of  its  noble  past. 
May  chanty,  true  charity,  reign  among 
all  our  citizens  as  among  the  children 
of  the  same  mother.  Let  us  have  none 
of  those  intestine  divisions  which  en- 
feeble us, — none  of  those  unhappy  jeal- 
ousies capable  of  compromising  the  most 
sacred  interests." 

Our  fathers'  battle-cries  are  hushed, 

The  ancient  feuds  are  gone  ; 

Canadians  now  and  brothers, 

With  God  we're  marching  on. 

With  spears  to  ploughshares  beaten, 

The  furrowed  land  is  won. 

Through  bannered  fields  of  waving  corn 

In  peace  we're  marching  on. 

The  North  wind  through  the  pine  woods 

Swells  out  our  paean  song, 


ECHOES   FROM    THE   PAST.  217 

To  the  music  of  its  harping 
We  bravely  march  along, 
And  join  the  trampling  millions, 
In  chorus  deep  and  strong. 
To  drum-beats  of  a  nation's  heart, 
We  proudly  march  along. 
O,  fair,  blue  skies,  and  mountain  streams 
Whose  flashing  sands   run  gold, 
No  standard  but  the  Triple-Cross 
Thy  breezes  shall  unfold. 
With  roaring  surge  of  circling  seas 
We  shout  our  patriot  song 
For  Home  and  Queen  and  Canada, 
With  God  we're  marching  on. 
On,  marching  on,  while  brave  the  colours  float 
From  sea  to  sea,  with  cheer  and  song, 
This  watchword  pass  the  ranks  along, 
Our  Land  is  marching  on  ! 


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